So, I had my intake and exhaust off the other day and my valve stems looked kinda oily... On one valve that was closed you could actually see oil puddling just a little bit. Granted, the jeep had been sitting for about a week.

I am burning a little oil ( faint blue smoke from the exhaust). The oil burning really isn't very noticeable, it's not like some big plume of smoke or anything. So, is it time for new valve seals? Thanks in advance guys!
It's a 94 xj with the 4.0 and 165k on it.

Hopefully this picture will upload...

 

Anyone?

 

yep. i would agree.

even tho it doesn't smoke much, i'm sure it stinks pretty bad for anyone driving behind you.

 

May as well. Not too bad of a job. Autozone sells a valve spring compressor tool for about $20. You can also rent one but the one I rented was all bent to hell which kept it from functioning properly, hence me buying one. Anyways, excessive oil through the exhaust kills things rather quickly (02 sensors, catalytic converters) so it is to your benefit to go ahead and change the seals to save yourself some boot in the future

 

Besides a valve spring compressor you will need an air compressor, and spark plug hole adaptor, to apply around 90 psi to the cylinder (at TDC Compression) you are going to remove the valve spring from.


The dealer sells valve stem seals. They sell them as Exhaust and Intake seals, so be aware of this if you buy aftermarket Chinese seals.


Edit: OEM seals...


Intake 53009886


Exhaust 53009887


I think all they sell now are the Standard seal. They are the part numbers given.

 

How could I forget the compressor! Wouldn't want to drop a valve

 

Awesome! Thanks for all the great info guys! Now, I've never done "internal" engine work before, so if you know of any great write-ups or helpful youtube videos could you share those with me? I've done plenty of work on the outside of motors, so I'm somewhat knowledgable with cars; I'm just definitely not a mechanic lol! I've done searches, but haven't found much that shows how to do this particular repair. Most videos only show how to replace the seals with the head off....

 

I think your Factory Service Manual will tell you how to do the job.

 

Yeah, I've read through the procedure in the manual. It's just helpful to watch a video or see some good step by step photos.

 

Just a few tips.


See if you can get an over-center type valve spring compressor that locks in to position so you can free up your hands to handle all the small bits you will be removing/installing. Cheap compressors require holding the spring down with one hand while you fiddle with the parts you will be handling.


The keepers (Valve Spring Retainer Locks) are hard to keep track of when removing them and reinstalling them. Place some rags around the valve springs, especially around the holes the push rods go thru, to keep a keeper from dropping in the engine.


Use a small magnet to handle the keepers, especially when installing them. Kind of tricky however because the magnet doesn't want to let go of the keeper when you get it in place. Try using needle nose pliers if you like.


Put some grease around the valve stem grooves that the keepers seat in to help keep them in place until you release the valve spring compressor. Make sure there is equal gaps at the ends of the keepers. There must be gaps at the ends of the keepers in order for the valves to rotate.


After you get everything put back together, rap the top of the valve stem with a plastic or rawhide hammer to seat all the bit parts. Then install the rockers.

 

Wow! Thanks a lot for all the help! I'll probably get around to doing this at my next oil change. I need to replace my valve cover gasket anyways so it will be the perfect time to replace the seals.

Any suggestions on valve cover gasket brands? I've always had good luck with Fel-Pro. Should I use any rtv? Whoever did my valve cover gasket last used rtv....

 

Fel-pro rubber. No RTV. 7ft/lbs

 

That's what I was thinking. I guess rtv is good for certain applications but it's a real PITA to remove...