Hey ya'll..... looks like I'm gonna need to go ahead and replace the rear main seal. Not a horrible leak yet, but but want to get after it before it does get worse.

Any particular brand that is better quality than others to go with?
Thanks.

 

Fel-pro is fine to use. The installation is just as important as the part. Nobody likes doing this job twice lol.

 

+1

 

I have nothing against Felpro but if you can get a Mahle instead, thats the route I would go.

 

very true

 

ddd

 

now it seems to be working....

I have owned MANY vehicles in my life... but for some reason the XJ is "special".... I've had her for over 5 years now... just a hair longer than knowing my wife...

 

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS

OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 3 COMMENTS

I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.

Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly.

 

I used a Felpro. Did mine back in 2006 and about 60K miles ago. Still dry.

 

Agreed there Cruiser.... I've got brand new valve cover gasket (recent anyways) have check everything else near the back as I'm aware that on these, the tilt just slightly downwards at the back so anything that leaks up top can migrate to make it appear it's the RMS if you don't throw a good eyeball on where it's actually coming from.

Mine leaks just a drop or two... not enough make a difference between oil changes... just enough to leave a couple drops on the ground when parked for a little while.

 

haven't done this one myself on the XJ before.... I've seen comments both sides for installation... Do you need to or is it recommended to remove the oil pan for this project?

 

I'd double check the rear bolts on the valve cover before I did anything else.

 

Definitely will be doing that Cruiser...

 

You must remove the pan. The seal sits inside the very last bearing main cap. Plan on getting a new oil pan gasket (Felpro) while you are down there.

 

+1

When getting the old seal out, whatever you do, don't use a metal object! Use a wooden dowel or something that won't cause damage so easily! I used a little dawn dish soap to make sure the new seal glided in nice and easy.