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tie rod ends

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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 03:10 PM
  #1  
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xj5
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From: nj
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Default tie rod ends

Hi, Im in the need of replacing my tie rod ends on my tie rod, drag link, and upper part of the track bar. I am getting a little confused as to which parts i need, can someone clear it up for me? Thanks.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 04:06 PM
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From: Riviera, Texas
Year: 1998 Sport
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Engine: 4.0
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I'm confused too! According to you, you need tie rod ends on my tie rod, drag link, and upper part of the track bar???
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RTorrez1
I'm confused too! According to you, you need tie rod ends on my tie rod, drag link, and upper part of the track bar???
Yes! i think so?! There are 2 ends for the tie rod and 2 ends for the drag link which connects to the pitman arm and tie rod.

I am also confussed about the track bar, the bushing is bad, not on the frame side, but the upper half side.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 05:54 PM
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From: New Cumberland, PA
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 I6
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tie rod ends-cherokee-front-components.jpg

maybe this will help...

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-st...herokee-xj.htm

Last edited by Mendax13; Dec 22, 2013 at 06:22 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 08:34 PM
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From: Auburn California
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Mendax13

Wow! Thanks for that picture!


In some places I've seen, the "Drag Link" was called the "Long Tie Rod."


I've been working to tighten up the steering on my '92 XJ, and I've replaced the intermediate steering shaft with a Borgeson upgrade. Nice and tight, that!! That fix got rid of most of the 45 degree play in the steering!

I've replaced the three short tie rod ends, but held off on the long links with the built in ends. Until today that is..,


I was also trying to replace the steering stabilizer shock, but managed to bung up the bolt on the upped side of that. Removing the lower bolt was easier, but now the stabilizer end pin won't come out of the drag link.


Here's my stupid question: Is that bolt THREADED through the drag link?


If it is threaded, than I've probably really screwed it up trying to bang it and twist it out! I'm thinking I might just have to replace the whole drag link and throw away it out with the old shock still attached.


Any hints on this?
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 03:42 AM
  #6  
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Originally Posted by Auburn Boy
Wow! Thanks for that picture!


In some places I've seen, the "Drag Link" was called the "Long Tie Rod."


I've been working to tighten up the steering on my '92 XJ, and I've replaced the intermediate steering shaft with a Borgeson upgrade. Nice and tight, that!! That fix got rid of most of the 45 degree play in the steering!

I've replaced the three short tie rod ends, but held off on the long links with the built in ends. Until today that is..,


I was also trying to replace the steering stabilizer shock, but managed to bung up the bolt on the upped side of that. Removing the lower bolt was easier, but now the stabilizer end pin won't come out of the drag link.


Here's my stupid question: Is that bolt THREADED through the drag link?


If it is threaded, than I've probably really screwed it up trying to bang it and twist it out! I'm thinking I might just have to replace the whole drag link and throw away it out with the old shock still attached.


Any hints on this?
Bigger hammer its a wedge fit .
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:14 AM
  #7  
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
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When replacing those pieces you might to consider heavy duty WJ tie rod (short) tie rod (Long and a sleeve. These are much better than the OEM ones also a direct bolt in. I just did them for less than $100 from AutoZone. They are solid steel not the rolled sheet metal replacements OEM and larger in dia.

Members here pointed me to the link for this a lot cheaper than a after market custom made one for sure.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:28 AM
  #8  
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From: Baytown
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Here ya go....I just did this on 2 XJ's.

Part numbers :

ES3096L - Tie Rod End
ES2079S - Adjuster link
DS1312 - Long Tie Rod End

Autozone cost is $82.97 plus tax (Duralast parts)
RockAuto.com cost is $104.92 shipped (MOOG parts)

It is a direct fit bolt on deal. The drag link is beefy enough as it is for most applications. If you are careful and don't move the wheels while doing the install....an alignment isn't even needed. I DO recommend a new steering stabilizer as well.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:34 AM
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From: Baytown
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Bigger hammer its a wedge fit .
Yeah just beat the hell out of it. Might help to hold another heavy hammer on the opposite side of that knuckle and hit it....sometimes the shock will break it loose. If you screw up the stud bad enough...it won't go through the hole in the rod. I used a grinder after I finally got it loose to grind off the end of the stud so it would come out of the hole.
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 09:10 AM
  #10  
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From: Auburn California
Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Bigger hammer its a wedge fit .

THANKS!!


I was beginning to think it was THREADED in..,


I may have to take the tie rod AND stabilizer off in one piece (they are bonded by time..,) and hit them against something HARDER.


The NUT shaped side of the OEM piece was confusing.


I know I am going to have to take a Dremel tool to the stud and grind it off once it comes loose!!


Banging on it from the floor is s backbreaking task.


I'll report back after my next attempt..,
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