I thought so. LOL

 

After reading numerous posts to help me decide my own personal plan of action.
I set aside some time this weekend to replace a few things, Water Pump $33.00, Fan Clutch $37.00,
Anti-freeze $15.00, Flush Tee $5.00, and the Radiator shop said mine was cleanable for $35.00.

Now some are saying what about the ever debated Thermostat?
KIDS DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME !
Fortunately the thermostat is very accessible and although everybody has an opinion. I have decided to experiment with different things to see what actually works best for my specific Jeep in this Florida climate.
Test results so far. Before any work was performed, It was running at 220*, with a 180 thermostat.
Now with all of the above new parts, and the gutted thermostat (in picture) , in my 90 Degree weather it’s running at a steady 190* Yes it took a few minutes longer to warm up, no big deal to me.
My summations, even the latest of production years are old enough to invest in above and avoid expensive damage.
Playing around with different thermostats may not be for everyone, and if you live where it gets below 30 in winter stick with a 190, I like the drilled burp hole idea. And adding the Flush Tee serves to flush & burb.

I will run mine this way for the summer and keep you posted.
I anticipate installing a 180* thermostat with two 3/16 holes drilled in it for my mild winter to keep the minimum temperature up to that.
Thanks for all the input, hope others have the same results that I did.

 

That should be proof right there, the t-stat does one thing only....control minimum coolant temp. The rest of the cooling system and it's condition, along with ambient temp and operating conditions effects max coolant temp. Coolant flowing too fast is a myth.

 

question - in the first picture of the last set where the center has been removed - the hole:
Is it bigger or smaller than if the entire piece was removed?
Is it still a restriction that will slow the coolant down?
Not as much as an unmodified t-stat, but still a restriction.

It's only a rumor to the clueless!

Radiator shops love it - it makes them lots of money! Simply ask any of them.

Spread your lack of knowledge - The economy needs the business!

 

It's a common misconception that rapid coolant flow will cause overheating.

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14_...utomobiles.htm

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm

 

, roll drama take 14!

Okay guys, firstly lets look at what he said on the first post......white smoke and immediate over heat...

check your dip stick and see if there is water on the dipstick.

if so...head gasket, and more possibly, head crack. (a-henh! henh! he said crack)

Two, now your are mis-firing and back firing.

when you did compression test, YOU SURE you put the wires back on correctly? AND, the plugs were tightend to torque spec? (yeah I know just tighter than hand tight, but I put em down pretty good. not crzy, just good-n-tite).
also, are the wires in good shape and the contacts "clicking" onto the plugs when you put them back on? AND the firing order is 100% correct?

ok, now, new pump, new stat.....flushed system......

heres a hint for ya.........
you get the time, etc etc etc. pull the radiator out of the vehicle.
(trust me on this).... a "good, clean" radiator weighs next to nothing.

a funked up gunked up heavy mile/environment radiator is quite heavy....

if it is......get yerself a new one(radiator) cuz the PO used a crapload o' stopleak.

my two cents sir!

I'll have a six-pack for ya!

cpnwrench

 

So a stuck tstat and constant flowing hot coolant is not going to overheat a vehicle? SMH come on man!

 

Well those two things are mutually exclusive - you have a stuck thermostat (stuck closed that is) and nothing will be constantly flowing...

 

Let's analyze this.....the only thing I've ever said, regarding a t-stat is, a properly functioning t-stat does one thing and that's control minimum temp. I'm not making this stuff up as I go.....basically just posting what I've read at informative sites and passed the links on. The only place I have read "coolant can flow too fast thru the rad and cause overheat" is on a forum. A stuck open t-stat, or no t-stat, is not going to cause overheat. The inability of the rad to dissipate heat causes overheat. There are numerous reasons why the rad may not be able to dissipate enough heat to maintain proper motor temps. The rad is the only component in the cooling system designed to dissipate heat....the other components maintain the movement/flow of air and/or coolant. Read the links.

 

Post #6, by tjwalker, was the 1st significant post of the 144 posts in this thread. The OP said the PO sucked a preventative maintenance. If the OP would quit guessing, follow tj's recommendations and replace the long over due to be replaced cooling system components, this thread wouldn't be a 10 page long pissing contest....probably only one. For the price of one of those tires, the whole cooling system could be replaced. Dude, git 'er done.

 

Now a cover-up?

You said totally removing the thermostat will prevent it from overheating.

AND - YOU SAID removing it will increase power!

YES, of course if it's defective and stuck closed - or there's no coolant in the system, or the pump is defective etc - those cause overheating too.

But when components are NOT DEFECTIVE - removing a t-stat will not cause it to run cooler.

People remove them due to rumors like you promote!

Keep your story straight!

The sites you quoted - none say removing an operating thermostat will make it run cooler than the radiators they are trying to sell will.

It's a dead horse - But continue making a fool of yourself if you want.

 

I said those things? Where?

 

Use a 180 Mr Gasket.

 

Make sure you have 3.5 gallons of mixture in there or you will still overheat.

 

Are you guys reviving the dead?