"""""What?????? U obviously don't know what "the loop" consists of."""""

Obviously you don't have any idea HOW the system works.

Get a book on it, and get a scanner that will let you see what's gong on - you'll see it's not just action-reaction - there's much more to it than that.

 

 

Let's try to keep this civil and informative.

You made the claim that once the O2's heater warms up enough to let it go into closed loop, temperature is no longer a factor.

For your own edification try a few things.

Start the engine from cold, let it warm up on it's own - don't change anything. You'll know when it first goes into closed loop.
At that time use your scope to notice the injector open times - it will be about .2 MS.
Let it warm up while monitoring the open times. Why does it change as it warms up?

No scope? Then use your HC CO O2 exhaust analyzer - why does the exhaust change as it gets warmer if the PCM ignores temp input?

No exhaust analyzer? Monitor ignition timing - why does it change too?

Let it fully warm up to normal operating temp - now pinch off a radiator hose to make it over heat - while still monitoring all the above!

You are on a quest or more power - richer really won't help much.
There are lots of schemes to try to cause it to run richer, most don't work, or at best they only richen the system for a few seconds or moments. Larger injectors, higher fuel pressure, MAP sensor trickery etc.
The computer always readjusts and compensates for the changes.

But there is 2 ways - reprogram the computer to make it "want" it richer, - not easy to do, but possible with the right equipment.

But - you can trick it into making it think it's still a little colder than it is - simple. Then injector open times will be slightly longer - richer.
Simply add a series resistance to the temp sensor wire - easy way is with a Dec box. As I remember, 200 Ohms in series will richen it about .05 MS open time, and about 1% CO.

Try it - easy to do - but I think you'll find it does very little for power. Emissions qwill go up, mileage will go down, oil dilution will inrcease, and plug life will be reduced.

Let us know what you did and what happened!

And try - simply unplugging the temp sensor connector - if the PCM is not monitoring temp, there will not be any change!

Same for either the AMC/Rambler/Nash/Hudson Renix or the better Chrysler system.

 

School me dude.....can hardly wait....hope it's not as long as I've been waiting to be schooled on coolant flow? LOL

 

Coolant flow - the coolant is the TRANSFER AGENT - if it is not allowed to absorb the heat, or transfer it to something else it does nothing!

It is NOT an evaporative system. The coolant itself does not do any cooling, it simply CARRIES heat away. 3rd grade physics.

 

This is a myth.

 

I suppose it could be a myth - I doubt anyone has INTENTIONALLY wanted their vehicle to overheat. But lots of folks have done it inadvertently.

Thousands of folks have fallen pry to the idea that removing the t-stat will make it run cooler. Whether they just thought of it on their own, or their T-stat stuck closed (it will help then), their neighbor said "---" - or they read it on the internet. Many were not having a problem, they were trying to prevent one - but created one instead.

They all eventually learn.

Ask any repair shop, or radiator shop - we've all experienced the customer that did it. If the rest of the system is working - not plugged, not leaking, putting in the correct t-stat where none was will cause it to run cooler overall.

Personally when I had my shops I experienced it quite a few times.

Actually I'm surprised at you still harping on this - I actually expected you to pick up and challenge me on something else I said.

 

Don't flatter yourself....I challenge anyone that perpetuates myths on the Internet.

 

Wow...a myth huh? SMH

 

LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

­Any liquid-cooled car engine has a small device called the thermostat that sits between the engine and the radiator. The thermostat in most cars is about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Its job is to block the flow of coolant to the radiator until the engine has warmed up. When the engine is cold, no coolant flows through the engine. Once the engine reaches its operating temperature (generally about 200 degrees F, 95 degrees C), the thermostat opens. By letting the engine warm up as quickly as possible, the thermostat reduces engine wear, deposits and emissions. If you ever have the chance to test one, a thermostat is an amazing thing to watch because what they do seems impossible. You can put one in a pot of boiling water on the stove. As it heats up, its valve opens about an inch, apparently by magic! If you'd like to try this yourself, go to a car parts store and buy one for a couple of bucks.

The secret of the thermostat lies in the small cylinder located on the engine-side of the device. This cylinder is filled with a wax that begins to melt at perhaps 180 degrees F (different thermostats open at different temperatures, but 180 F/82 C is a common temperature). A rod connected to the valve presses into this wax. When the wax melts, it expands significantly and pushes the rod out of the cylinder, opening the valve. If you have read How Thermometers Work and done the experiment with the bottle and the straw, you have seen the same process in action. The wax happens to expand a good bit more because it is changing from a solid to a liquid in addition to expanding from the heat.

 

It looks like it's time to call in the professionals

 

Coolant circulates thru the block/head the moment the motor starts, regardless of coolant temp. When the t-stat starts to open, coolant flows in a loop from the head, thru the rad, to the block and back to/thru the head. If/when the t-stat closes, coolant goes back to circulating thru the block/head. The t-stat is only open about 1/4" max. at about 15 degrees above its rated temp. It opens/closes slowly with a infinite number of open positions between closed and max open. From it's open temp to about 15 degrees above, it kinda "hovers" slowly. The pics are of a 180 t-stat.......closed at 180 and full open at 195.

 

Could the tranny make me overheat? He said it was bad, but it seems to drive fine? But he gave me a new one with it when I bought it.

 

Refresh my memory, what have u done maintenance wise to the cooling system?