Sway Bar
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 39
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From: UK Great Britian
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4lt
Hi,
It's a 1998 grand Cherokee.
Please could someone post a picture of the rear swaybar the manual I've got dose not identify the rear swaybar.
My intention is to remove this Swaybar from my Daily Drive.
Will that be OK and what effect will I feel.
Thanks
Markie in the UK.
It's a 1998 grand Cherokee.
Please could someone post a picture of the rear swaybar the manual I've got dose not identify the rear swaybar.
My intention is to remove this Swaybar from my Daily Drive.
Will that be OK and what effect will I feel.
Thanks
Markie in the UK.
Just crawl underneath your Jeep and look for something that looks like the large bar below, shouldn't be hard to find. The sway bar keeps your rear axle from articulating beyond what the factory shocks and springs are capable of, prevents you from rubbing or damaging your fenders with factory wheels/tires, and to some extent keeps your rear axle in alignment with respect to the center of the vehicle. I would keep it attached for normal driving and while using factory suspension components.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 1
From: Salem Nh
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
U dont need the rear sway bar. Some model xjs didn't come with them and many vehicals dont come with rear ones. If you lift ur rig u the lift kit requires u to remove it anyways. You won't notice any difference when driving either.
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 198
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From: Portland OR
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 liter
He's got a Grand Cherokee not an XJ. It's 4 linked in back with a panhard and sway. If it were me and it was a DD I wouldn't disco the rear sway.
Not as bad a discoing the sway on a front 4link/panhard setup (XJs and Wj/ZJs) but still the same effect.
The guys saying pull it and don't look back are on leaf springs in rear. Only 4 points of attachment/movement without the sway bar. Not much room for"play".
Much less noticeable with leafs; in fact a sway bar with leafs is pointless really.
You however have a Grand Cherokee (much more weight in back to control than an XJ)
with 4 link control arms, a trackbar and coils. that's 10 points of attachment/movement without a sway bar. Lots more play.
You will get a lot more roll in back without a sway bar than with leaf springs. Heck on my YJ (all leafs front and rear) I drove with no sway bars front or rear and barely noticed a difference.
That's all leafs though.
4 link is a whole different ball game.
I drove a GC with no sway in back for a while. Just felt waaay too loose on road cornering and making quick changes in direction, and put conswiderably more stress on the track bar which is VITAL as it's what's taking the load on turns. I put it back on and made some quick disconnects for it for offroad.
Just pop the bolt going through the bottom most bushing out (vice) and reinsert a non threaded hitch pin with a hole drilled in through the end for a cotter or springed pin. Sounds more complicated than it really is. Once you start messing with it it all makes sense.
Not as bad a discoing the sway on a front 4link/panhard setup (XJs and Wj/ZJs) but still the same effect.
The guys saying pull it and don't look back are on leaf springs in rear. Only 4 points of attachment/movement without the sway bar. Not much room for"play".
Much less noticeable with leafs; in fact a sway bar with leafs is pointless really.
You however have a Grand Cherokee (much more weight in back to control than an XJ)
with 4 link control arms, a trackbar and coils. that's 10 points of attachment/movement without a sway bar. Lots more play.
You will get a lot more roll in back without a sway bar than with leaf springs. Heck on my YJ (all leafs front and rear) I drove with no sway bars front or rear and barely noticed a difference.
That's all leafs though.
4 link is a whole different ball game.
I drove a GC with no sway in back for a while. Just felt waaay too loose on road cornering and making quick changes in direction, and put conswiderably more stress on the track bar which is VITAL as it's what's taking the load on turns. I put it back on and made some quick disconnects for it for offroad.
Just pop the bolt going through the bottom most bushing out (vice) and reinsert a non threaded hitch pin with a hole drilled in through the end for a cotter or springed pin. Sounds more complicated than it really is. Once you start messing with it it all makes sense.
Last edited by Solomon7; Oct 31, 2011 at 05:36 PM.
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