AFARR

Update in 7th post following...

95 Sport 4.0 Auto Trans..

I replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat. I have the air cleaner box out for now (easier to loosen the power steering pump that way).

I replaced the brake line to the rear (Hard line above the fuel lines...I did have to heat the connection to get it to break free, but used a pinpoint butane torch so the fuel filter that was above it probably got some heat but not a huge amount...and the problem didn't start right after that).

Changed the Oil and filter.

It then started right up...under a second of cranking, ran fine, etc..but there was a coolant leak.

The thermostat was leaking around the housing, and spraying out towards the power steering pump area, so I shut it off after less than a minute (once I found the leak).....(either I buggered up the gasket or didn't seat the thermo right)...so I pulled it off, got a new gasket, let it dry with some RTV on it until tacky, then reinstalled).

Went to start it last night (24+ hours for the RTV on the gasket to seal) and it would crank but not catch. Battery got fairly weak after a couple of tries so I put a charger on it (new battery). This AM the battery cranks it well, but still no catch (once or twice it seemed like there was a slight difference...like it 'almost' was on the verge of starting up, but these were few and far between)....several tries didn't help, so I stopped until I can try a better workup..

The jeep had been mostly sitting for 2 years. It would fire up fine when I first looked at it a few months ago, and started and drove part of the way home (until the grinding in the t-case started and then the radiator exploded)..I've started it a couple of times since then, but only let it run for a few moments before stopping (checking for noise with no water pump, trying to fill completely with coolant).

So, it's a sudden onset, not a slow loss of power.

It's raining outside, but I can hear the fuel pump hum for a second or two when I turn the key from inside. I push in on the shrader valve on the fuel rail and a little bit sprays out (about a teaspoon) and stops...then turning the key lets it do so again (little bit of spray then stops)...

There is nobody here this AM to help turn the key and see if it sprays hard at the valve. I've got to go to work later this afternoon, but will be close enough to some parts stores or harbor freight to pick up some stuff to work with...

So...

What to work up on it? What order to test or check things? I'll need a timing light (haven't had to use one in years!) for it eventually..any other tools going to be helpful?

Thanks!

SeriousOffroad

Grab a fuel pressure gauge and see what pressure you actually have at the fuel rail.

AFARR

I just went out an played with it...

Took the fuel pump relay out and tried cranking, and the cranking smoothed out...didn't feel like an occasional backfire/back pressure while cranking.

While I was in there, I pulled out the large fuse (60a) for the ignition system..fuse intact, but some corrosion on the prongs, so I scraped it off a bit and put it in...

Tried again and it came 'closer' to catching while cranking (almost 'caught' and even once ran for a half second...rough, vibrating...once I stopped turning the key).

I'll get the fuel pressure gauge...but have to wonder if it's a spark issue from the above.

It has been damp here over the last 3 days...including a heavy rain a couple of times.....

The wires look fairly new (not OEM...and it has 178k miles), but have to wonder if dampness could be causing electrical/ignition issues.

Might just get a set of wires and distributor cap on general principles and try that also (since I don't know when they were last changed)...and plugs..

Thanks!

AFARR

mtxaudiosystm

well check to see if theres spark to the coil

AFARR

I have some kind of a noid light to check for spark plug connections...but I'm not sure where it is...so I'm going to pick up various tools today to check.

Will at timing light (clip it around the wire from the coil to the distributor cap) work, or do I need something more specialized?

Thanks!

AFARR

Niac

Clip it on the sparkplug wires should tell you when each plug fires.
Spraying starting fluid in the air intake would tell you to.
I had sudden loss of mobility and it would run as long as the starting fluid was being sprayed in. The fuel injectors were not firing. It was a poor connection on the fuse that feeds power to them.

AFARR

I went to Harbor Freight and got a Fuel Pressure gauge and an automotive multimeter....I have other multimeters but not specific for vehicles (not that I needed one).

The multimeter came with an inductive pickup to show RPMs...

The coil to distrib. wire shows no current running through it (I'll check the meter tomorrow on a different car just to be sure there's no issue with the meter itself). There is 13v on 'run' to the coil, so that may be the issue.

Won't have time this weekend, but at least it gives me a better starting point.

AFARR

AFARR

Update....
Foggy this AM, but a nice, warm sunny day.

Started right up***. Power seems to be coming from the coil to the Dist. cap now.

***Ok, it took a few seconds of cranking and pushing on the gas, started slightly rough but idled fine after it started, then I stopped it and was able to start it up again with a few seconds of roughness then a smooth idle....


So....moisture in the coil (or possibly distributor..)....as they are cheap, I'll probably replace them as a precaution. I'll get a new fuel filter just to be a bit sure, and run a can of dry gas (and/or a few treatments of Sea Foam) through the tank for now.

Thanks!!

AFARR