22 is the coolant temperature sensor, did you check that?

 

[QUOTE=Red1992XJ;3566355]22 is the coolant temperature sensor, did you check that?[/Q I replaced that when I changed the thermostat and the housing

 

Is it sputtering and dying like it's running out of gas or just dying like you lost spark? Dying after a few minutes while warming up sounds like O2 sensor to me. Try unplugging the O2 sensor and see if it still die as it warms up. Also check that it's wiring and connector are in good condition, not melted against the exhaust, etc. You changed both the cam and crank position sensors? Both can be temperature sensitive and may not throw check engine codes.

 

Check the resistance anyway. If that's less than 1000 ohms @ operating temperature check it's wires.

 

I didn't do the cam position sensor but I did replace the crankshaft position sensor and also I did not change the O2 sensor. as far as the sputtering and dying it's more of an excess fuel thing because it's sputters and backfires through the exhaust and it backfired enough to blow my muffler part I did think perhaps the catalytic converter might be an issue but with the muffler blown apart and more flow it's still do the same thing catalytic converter was removed as well as the muffler so it's just straight piped right now until I get that fixed but I got to get it running before I can fix the exhaust a running consistently I mean I start it up and it cranks right up no rattling no knocking runs perfect and then after about a minute or two it starts bogging down like it's dying if you try to give it gas it starts backfiring and completely dies and then it will not start no matter how many times you try until the engine completely cools down still stumped here

 

Dude, these kinds of comments are not necessary. Keep them to yourself. Some of us actually do like hearing stories about our fellow Cherokee drivers. No need to be a dick, if you don’t like it just move on.

 

And test the oxygen sensor. Heating element:

and the signal should be about 0.6V. Bad would be like 0.0 or 1.0. Should be gray wire.

 

I agree with Dave - it's worthwhile to double check the sensor. Lots of the sensors sold by the parts chain stores and online lately are seriously questionable. The best choice is a Mopar unit if you can find one and are willing to pay a bit more (I definitely prefer Mopar if I can find it), but regardless, you can and should test the CTS since you're getting a code for it. As mentioned, you can have a perfectly functional part and have problems if the connector or wiring is not sound. Do a double and triple check of that stuff - open up the tape and plastic sheathing stuff and examine the wiring down the line if you have to. Most of the problems occur at the connector, where the wiring chafes/rubs or if it contacts a hot surface, so these are the first spots to check.

Also your problem --screams-- "O2 sensor", so make that the #2 check. Remember to use ONLY NTK brand O2 sensors - they're not any more expensive and the XJ is super picky about having the right (OEM in this case) brand for O2 sensors.

 

Specifically

 

BTW did you do anything about that 33 code?

 

One word.. coil. Can we say it together... C O I L! I feel like a complete idiot. So, right before the first sputters, backfires, and dies....the timing belt (twice broken down because I cracked the first timing cover and had to replace), water pump, thermostat and housing, plugs, wires, there was this coil. All lonely and not only easy to change, but cheap AF! Like $18.99 on a prominent site I won't throw under the bus. Why not go ahead and swap her out too! FF to now.... Yeah I knew the O2 sensor was bad .....which I also blame on the coil .. because of the excess backfiring that eventually blew my muffler apart. I'm sure that's what fried the sensor. However it still wouldn't run but maybe one minute and minute and a half and then starts sputtering and died. Then I had to wait for the engine to be completely cool before I could try to start it again. I just happened to save the old coil and I decided what the hell let's hook her up and see if it makes a difference and guess what? Started right up stayed running turn it off started right up again stayed running turn it off started right up etc you get it drove it around the block yeah she drove perfect. Moral of the story here don't buy cheap ****ing products for your Jeep. Especially ignition parts. when I put them side by side before I changed it out I noticed the new one had no rubber insulation around it the other one was completely covered in rubber insulation and had a Bosch stamp on it. Probably wasn't original but clearly was a better coil then the one that only said "made in China" was. Thank you guys for all your help and responses to my dilemma really happy she's back on the road again of course I have to put a new muffler on her before I take her out on the daily but she's running strong again with all new parts now at 264000 miles hopefully show go past 3 before I touch her again. Fingers crossed thanks again everyone!