darkmattermonkey77

So here is the deal. Day 1. My roomate purchased a 97 jeep cherokee sport 4X4 w/manual trans, drove it home (started and stopped along the way). First issue: none of the gages work? no turn signals but has hazards, headlights, and brake lights. (I read the info on the ABS recall shorting electrical info already - the module under the drivers seat isn't there. Do not know if someone did a DIY or the dealer did it). Day 2. He goes to start it, it will not start? he finds an inline fuse blown on a wire "patched" into the HOT coming directly from the battery? He replaces fuse.. then comes to find me for help. Engine will not start and now indicates a ground - put it to start, all lights go out, headlights, brakes, overhead lights... nothing works except for the "Ping Ping" sound when the key in in the ignition? Pulled the instrument cluster, looked for dirty terminals. Didnt find any buuuut during disassembly of dash we finds that "patched" wire coming into cab and going to fuse panel on passenger side? after hours of head scratching and meter checks, pretty sure that someone patched in power directly to the fuse panel from the battery, why? no clue but there are some indications of melted and/or charred blown fuses both inside and outside fuse panels? found a 10 and 15 amp fuse blown, changed them both. After some reading on here, disconnected the negative battery terminal to reset PCI. That worked... yay! now all lights are working, turn signals, ect are back on again. But now, it still will not start? Turn it to start/run, the lights on the dash dim a little but there is no noise, click, anything from the engine. Any ideas? is there a anti-theft electrical lock-out? or another solenoid I can check? (bear in mind. this jeep was sold with no title, owners manual... nothing. I have been digging on the internet to find (fuzzy) pictures of the fuse panels and what fuses power what) Thanks for any advice or help.

cherokee90

bad connections at the battery clean them well>

freegdr

battery at full charge/try jumping....smack starter with hammer?

darkmattermonkey77

okay. I will disconnect the terminals and throughly clean them. Also, I checked the battery by meter with the ignition in off and when he took it to start/run. Voltage did not drop (which I saw in the past on vehicles with grounds or seized starters) stayed steady at 12.8 VDC. I will try a smacking the starter a few times if the cleaning doesn't work.

Shamrock96

Ok so first 2 pix are the inside of the power distribution center and what next is the relay layout in the manual last is the harness for the starter. The starter gets direct power off the battery and the relay kicks it on. If that harness is not connected properly or if the end is not on the battery than it won't work. My guess is a blown relay personally.

darkmattermonkey77

Thanks for the the input Shamrock. Okay. So that leads into another WTF? Shamrock, in the pic's you put up - the first pic that shows ASD, AUX. FAN, ABS SYSTEM, the smaller load fuses to the right.. it shows a 10A, 30A, and a 20A. Weeeeeeell, the 20A fuse is gone?... I mean literally melted down to just barely seeing that at one point, there was a fuse in it and it self-destructed?? We have no owners manual so no idea as to what that 20A power(ed)? Also, the A/C clutch relay? it's not even there? (something bad happened to this girl at some point and someone patched her up with redneck engineering). I know she can still make it if we can get around some of the previous owners "Get-R-dun" fix's though.

darkmattermonkey77

Found an image online (I am at work) that shows the passenger side fuse panel. I've indicated some of the damage and unusual mod. done to it. not sure if anyone has seen a bypass like this or fuses blown in these spots before but there it is....

Mctowelie

Pics a bit small :P, id like to say 97 is the worst year when it comes to electrical, Chrysler must have not been to good with wiring after the redesign or something. If you havnt I would get a wiring diagram first thing. for all your needs go to morris4x4.com (I do) .scroll down to the bottom where it list the index and find the online repair manuals, type in the year and make and start there. It will take time but most likly help. Just my .2 cents

I own a 97, window problems still plague me, contemplating manuel doors soon.

Bustedback

You may be having neutral safety switch issues. You should never purchase a vehicle without a title, it could lead to some huge problems in the future.

Marcucco

There's apparently a couple different versions of the wiring harness in the 97, so a diagram may be a crap shoot.
I believe I read something about one of the main modular plugs at the firewall being problematic, water getting in them or something like that.

There was also an issue on older models where the seal in the clutch cylinder would let go and leak hydraulic fluid down into the fuse box (been there, major nightmare) might be worth a look.

darkmattermonkey77

lol yeah, I wouldn't EVER do that {title} but it was my roomates purchase and currently his only mode of transportation (Besides his trucking job - and me) It sort of falls on me now to be the good guy and figure out what is up with it so he has something to drive (... besides me crazy).

darkmattermonkey77

Your 2 cents have helped lots. The 4x4 site is amazing.. really awesome info, thank you. :-)

darkmattermonkey77

Update: I cleaned the battery terminals, checked the STARTER relay (good). Still doesn't start but on a positive note, the fuel gage and voltmeter on the instrument cluster are working now? (nothing I did that I am aware of but it's still a positive). Further puzzle though. The patched in wire going to the Passenger side fuse panel seems to provide ACC power when connected? I.E. the fan/blower starts going with the key removed from the ignition. (and another issue found in this process) The blower will not shut off? the position switch is on the "O" spot so it shouldn't be on... yet it is? (by either the patched waire or the key in the "ON" position... it just keep running. weirder and weirder... why bypass the ACC position?

darkmattermonkey77

Since I am new to the whole JEEP setup I am unsure (I did say it's a manual). I believed the NSS only applied to the automatic transmission and the Manual had the Clutch interlock switch, is that correct or does the manual also have an NSS? (I found the CIS removed completely? someone just looped the cable back on itself to complete the circuit?)

Bustedback

Sorry, I missed the manual transmission part.