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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I have a 94 Cherokee 4d 2.5l 5spd 2wd. I bought it about 4 months ago and really love it. Made several trips to Florida and she's done great! I noticed a few quirks like tapping at idle and a glitch at highway speeds every 20 seconds a little hiccup. Well about a month ago I was driving home for lunch it starts jerking and backfiring then dies. Started it back up, drives fine for a couple miles then backfired and dies again. Checked fuel rail for pressure and nothing. Stopped and got a fuel pump but I guess I check the wrong because when I went back and turn the key and pushed the valve fuel shut out so I know it has fuel. It wasn't leaking or overheating so I knew it had water. Took the throttle body and cleaned it really good replaced idle air control valve, tps, as well as the map sensor and intake air temperature sensor. I've been thinking that perhaps it's my timing chain and all the rattling at idle I ignored perhaps it has been slipping and finally broke or given out. after reading it was a non interference engine I was relieved and although I've never changed a timing chain, I was down for the challenge. Before I did so I went ahead and ordered a new thermostat housing new radiator, new fan clutch, new water pump, gaskets, and everything I would need to change the timing chain like the gears and the chain itself. When I tore it down to my disappointment the timing chain was tight and in good shape looks like it hadn't slipped at all. I went ahead and changed the timing belt water pump and everything and when I put it together it would not start. I thought maybe at this point it was perhaps the crankshaft position sensor I change that and boom it started right up. So while it was running I decided to go ahead and fill up the radiator. But everything topped off , good to go, engine is still running.... Time for the test drive. Getting it drive about a mile down the road and it starts backfiring and sputtering and one last big backfire and it dies and will not start back up. Jobs at the house looked underneath and the muffler was blown apart at the seam. I just locked it up and the next day went back outside turn the key starts right up no missing you hesitate again after about 3 minutes when it starts getting warm it starts hesitating and dies again. Pretty much stopped now I changed every sensor possible that I know of. the way it starts right up when it's cold makes me think it's a sensor issue of some type. anyone else had a similar experience to give me some ideas here thank you.
Last edited by benjiboy64; 07-23-2019 at 02:14 PM.
I mean, if you want to fire the parts cannon at it all day you can always load a new O2 sensor, ignition coil, camshaft position sensor, heck.. why not a whole new distributor while you're at it...
However, you can save yourself some serious money and start with a thorough cleaning of the engine grounds and battery cables. Then go through the connectors and clean them and inspect them for issues. This is a 25 year old vehicle... 25 years.. rust, corrosion and deterioration of the plastic is all very possible. Check your wiring.. is there any that is suspect.. pretty simple and easy to fix. Once you've got all that stuff checked out, so that you're SURE you have a solid base - it's time to break out the multi-meter and start doing some diagnostics. If you don't have a copy of the FSM, get one now. http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365 for the download link.
I mean, if you want to fire the parts cannon at it all day you can always load a new O2 sensor, ignition coil, camshaft position sensor, heck.. why not a whole new distributor while you're at it...
However, you can save yourself some serious money and start with a thorough cleaning of the engine grounds and battery cables. Then go through the connectors and clean them and inspect them for issues. This is a 25 year old vehicle... 25 years.. rust, corrosion and deterioration of the plastic is all very possible. Check your wiring.. is there any that is suspect.. pretty simple and easy to fix. Once you've got all that stuff checked out, so that you're SURE you have a solid base - it's time to break out the multi-meter and start doing some diagnostics. If you don't have a copy of the FSM, get one now. http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365 for the download link.
Pat is right, cleaning the grounds and checking wires can help some problems, sometimes it is obscure problems that are caused by faulty grounds / connections that will drive you crazy. I've also seen from people on here where the schrader valve on the fuel rail wasn't tight, and that caused problems. Best to recheck all of your work and make sure all is good.
Theoretically, putting in a new cam sensor may not be a bad idea. I am not one to throw parts and money hand over fist at vehicles, but if you have a common problem that has a common solution, it may not be a bad idea.
It seems as though when the Jeep is warmed up is when it starts to give you trouble. When it sputters and dies, can you duplicate the problem in your driveway / work area so you can check for spark and fuel pressure, as soon as possible after the situation presents itself?
Pat is right, cleaning the grounds and checking wires can help some problems, sometimes it is obscure problems that are caused by faulty grounds / connections that will drive you crazy. I've also seen from people on here where the schrader valve on the fuel rail wasn't tight, and that caused problems. Best to recheck all of your work and make sure all is good.
Theoretically, putting in a new cam sensor may not be a bad idea. I am not one to throw parts and money hand over fist at vehicles, but if you have a common problem that has a common solution, it may not be a bad idea.
It seems as though when the Jeep is warmed up is when it starts to give you trouble. When it sputters and dies, can you duplicate the problem in your driveway / work area so you can check for spark and fuel pressure, as soon as possible after the situation presents itself?
Excellent advice here.
Just to be clear, I'm not trying to be mean or anything, so I hope I didn't offend you with a little good-natured joking. The urge to just start replacing everything is a real and powerful one when nothing seems to be working, but if the issue is a bad connector or a loose/exposed wire, no new part will fix the problem. You need to do the basics, then check for obvious problems - if you're lucky, you'll find the issue and can fix it. If not, then you at the very least can be confident that when you start doing the systematic diagnostics that most everyone on this forum would recommend, that the testing will be reliable and you can isolate and correct the problem.
If you need help with that testing, there are many competent and regular members that can assist you with what to check and clarify things that might be confusing in the FSM.
Check your coolant temp sensor, sence you say it runs good tell iy warms up. If its out of spec. as your engine warms up if the sensor is not responding right it basicly stays in an open loop for initial warm up feeding your system more fuel. As it warms up the cpu uses a signal from the sensor to help adjust the fuel going to your injectors. If it stays in this open loop after warm up you will be getting way to much fuel and your fuel to air ratio is all jacked up causing you sputtering and backfire issue. Need to test the coolant temp sensor before you keep wasting money on unneeded parts
Is it making a pretty good rattling sound at idle? Could be a clogged or busted up cat. That could cause a backfire and if it’s bad enough you could lose power.
Side note...
When posting, It is a good idea to get to the point.
While I appreciate your ability to tell a story and your mastery of English this doesn't really help the forum solve your problems...
Most people will click on the next post and not yours once they read a whole story about how you purchased your Jeep.
I am not trying to be rude I am just trying to illuminate you as to the way forums work on any website let alone at JeepCherokee forum...
I will keep it short and sweet....
While most Millennials are used to their jobs, employers, parents, accepting their way of life… most CherokeeForum people are a little bit older and expect you to act normal... society does also...
I mean, if you want to fire the parts cannon at it all day you can always load a new O2 sensor, ignition coil, camshaft position sensor, heck.. why not a whole new distributor while you're at it...
However, you can save yourself some serious money and start with a thorough cleaning of the engine grounds and battery cables. Then go through the connectors and clean them and inspect them for issues. This is a 25 year old vehicle... 25 years.. rust, corrosion and deterioration of the plastic is all very possible. Check your wiring.. is there any that is suspect.. pretty simple and easy to fix. Once you've got all that stuff checked out, so that you're SURE you have a solid base - it's time to break out the multi-meter and start doing some diagnostics. If you don't have a copy of the FSM, get one now. http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365 for the download link.
Wires are good. I'm leaning towards the temp sensor on thermostat housing I remember when I assembled it I screwed it in as tight as I can get it and then when I installed it on the engine I torque the bolts down but I could not get it to stop leaking around the edges and I'm going to have to pull the thermostat housing off and reseal it but I think perhaps I might have tighten the temp sensor too much and it's not allowing the thermostat housing to fully seal and may have been damaged out of not sure I've been working all week and haven't had a chance to get to it I will keep you updated thank youfor yourdetailed response
MAP, TPS, IAC valve, coolant temp sensor (on thermostat housing), crankshaft position sensor, oil pressure sensor. I've also changed plugs, wires, coil, timing chain, water pump, thermostat and housing, and radiator.it starts immediately then after about 2 minutes it starts sputtering like it's gonna die if you try to give it gas it sputters worse , backfires sometimes, then dies and no matter how many times you try it will not restart until the engine is absolutely completely cold then it will start right up.
07-23-2019, 01:31 PM
Stumped but not giving up
