Hello again everybody! Hoping to gain some advice, I would like to share the situation my '88 XJ and I am in . Here's the skinny...

Awhile ago I replaced the oil pump and in doing so I needed to remove and replace the oil pan. During the process multiple threads of the oil pan were stripped, repair attempts have been made, but were futile

I am currently sick of the wasted oil and want to find a solution to the prevailing situation I have caused.

Thought of remedies consist of:

1. Bore out the hole again and re-tap properly to a larger size, inset bolt and cut flush. Tap inserted bolt to correct size as needed.

2. Add metal back to the bottom of the engine; weld, liquid metal,...?....

3.....

I have read up on the typical oil pan thread remedy for ill fated oil changes, however my situation seems a big more technical as I am getting closer to the underlying mechanics of the vehicle.

Any advice and suggestions is appreciated!

 

Try Helicoil inserts and reinstall original size bolts.

 

x2

 

X3 Really the only proper way to do it.

 

Ken, Fred and XJLimited thanks for the responses.
I have tried Helicoils in addition to re-threading and obviously failed.
Do you suggest any particular method or tools to successfully fix the problem?

 

personalty i would drill out the thread holes and re-tap the to the next size thread and of course new bolts to match.i have done it many times to other things that had stripped threads...always worked for me..

 

Did you drill the holes out for a Helicoil tap? If so, what size drill was it?


You may be very limited as to what next up size screw you can go with.

 

hi CCKEN.if your replying to me my friend..as an example to you i did this..say the stripped thread is 7mm...i would drill it out to what ever is the closest to the next size up..drill a nice clean hole and then tap the hole out to suit the next size bolt..it maybe an imperial bolt not metric..you could find out by a metric-imperial chart for the size..i have done this on many things in the past...but its always worked for me..you may just need to do some home work with a chart to find the right size...sorry ccken..i see you was not asking me..but my post may help you.

 

If you used a 1/4-20 Helicoil tap drill ("H" .2660), you may be able to go to 5/16-18, using a "J" drill (.2770) - if there's enough edge distance where you need to drill/tap.


Chart for ref.


http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm

 

You're right concerning meat left to tap into, I bored out the hole previously and there may be an issue.

As I am obviously familiar with helicoils, has anyone head of or used "timeserts"? They are inherently more expensive, however they seem more fool proof.

 

This method would allow me to put more metal back in place, but I feel gravity and oil would be against me the whole time I would be trying to achieve the needed temperature.

OR
Maybe back filling an inserted helicoil with lock tite form a thread repair.

OR

Anyone ever use a rivet nut/nutsert?
I honestly think my best option apart from adding more aluminum would be to go with a helicoil or more preferably a time sert.

 

So, it's the timing cover????//

Replace the damn thing and don't strip it out again.


Mountain out of a mole hill..........

 

Another thing you can do..........


Remove the bolts.

Use carb or brake cleaner to clean the holes.

Use compressed air to blow out the holes.

Cut the heads off the two 1/4-20 bolts.....length so that about 3/8 to 1/2" sticks out of the hole.

Use a syringe to apply a dab of JBWeld or other inside the hole.

Coat the threads with JB about 1/4" at the end.

Insert stud, making sure that no epoxy is on the exposed thread.

Let set overnight.

In the morning install the nuts and (here's that term again) snug it down tight.

 

Dont "snug it down".... Get a torque spec.