Strange no start issue.
Inside the starter there are carbon brushes that ride in a copper commutator or slotted section of the rotor where all the core wires attach. The brushes wear down until the spring pressure doesn't hold them tightly in contact with the commutator and there's a voltage drop and arcing starts, burning the copper sections. In severe cases the commutator needs to be lathe turned to smooth it up and the burrs cleaned out of the slots between the sections. As long as it didn't get hot enough to melt the solder connections or burn out a winding, all a starter needs to be rebuilt is bearings, brushes, and a cleaned up commutator. Years ago mechanics used to do this instead of buy a new one, but today time is money and rebuilding starters and alternators is done by electrical shops. Still, if you can find the parts, rebuilding them is not all that difficult. Guys with classic cars like to keep everything original.
Ohhh, ok, yeah. On my landy ended on simply replacing it. A 2-hour job max but that's because there is so much space in and around the engine bay I only had to take an air pipe off and I could get to it.
I'll probably just replace instead of rebuilding, how easy to get the starter off? Or does she need to go up in the air and various bits stripped off to reach her?
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
It's just the wiring and 2 bolts. I think there's 1 from each direction if I'm not mistaken. On my Chevy truck, the front driveshaft was in the way!
Might strip the starter motor and clean it up. What would you use? Wire wool to clean up the terminals/brushes? Or some solvent of sorts?
Thanks
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