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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Hi all, I recently replaced the nss in my 98 Cherokee. The switch had been bypassed since I bought it nearly a year ago, so I know the starting and charging systems are working fine. But, with the new nss installed, I am getting no start. Please help!!!
No, it does nothing. Here is more detail on everything...
Since I've owned it, it has started fine with the NSS bypassed on the engine side of the harness via jumper wire. This comes with several problems I was hoping to solve with the new NSS:
1. no reverse lights
2. crappy gas mileage
3. shift points seem really high, and almost never shifts into overdrive at highway speeds
I bought now two new NSS and installed them, both with the same results, the NSS no start condition. The reverse lights would work, which means the NSS does work. I even tried adjusting the NSS, through its entire serviceable range, the reverse lights stay on while the trans is in reverse, but I was not able to get it to start in any gear, or with wiggling the shifter.
I jumped the ground on the back of the NSS side of the connector. This allows the jeep to start while keeping the reverse lights operational, but, the gas mileage and trans problems are not solved by this. Since it starts fine with the ground jumped with or without the new NSS connected, the starting and charging systems can be ruled out as the problem. Clearly the problem is downstream from the NSS, but I have no idea where to start or what to check to chase it down.
to adjust the kickdown cable. See if that fixes the issue of having high shift points and no overdrive. Also, when you say no overdrive, do you mean your torque converter is not locking up or it is not shifting into 4th gear? Last thing: is this a knockoff NSS or the real deal?
Are you sure the gas mileage issues are attributed to the NSS? Bypass the NSS, keep your reverse lights, and follow this tutorial to adjust the kickdown cable. See if that fixes the issue of having high shift points and no overdrive. Also, when you say no overdrive, do you mean your torque converter is not locking up or it is not shifting into 4th gear? Last thing: is this a knockoff NSS or the real deal?
I'm not completely sure the gas mileage/shifting issues are due to the NSS, but from everything I've read, I believe they are. I'm not sure about your overdrive question, how would I tell? It's an amazon NSS from parts giant, they have great reviews.
Originally Posted by Dave51
Take off the NSS (or get a known good one). Put the wires back together normally. Manually place the NSS in Park and/or Neutral and see if it starts.
If it still doesn't start, then start tracing the GROUND of B or C for continuity.
Do you have any engine codes?
How would I manually put the NSS in park or neutral? I know there is a line on it, not sure if it's park or neutral, but I think it's park. And how do I trace the grounds for B and C for continuity? Last time I scanned codes it threw p0700 transaxle control system malfunction, p1899 park/neutral switch circuit conditions, and p0743 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit.
How would I manually put the NSS in park or neutral?
Yank it off the transmission and turn the thing by hand.
And how do I trace the grounds for B and C for continuity?
With an ohmmeter. Since the jumper trick works, I'm thinking the plug connectors or wire along there is bad, and it's somewhere between the jumper and the new NSS(s).
Last time I scanned codes it threw p0700 transaxle control system malfunction, p1899 park/neutral switch circuit conditions, and p0743 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit.
And check the transmission entire harness carefully, especially any areas near the exhaust.
On my Jeep with 225/75 tires, once I hit 45 mph the Jeep drops into 4th and the TC locks up. The engine is spinning about 1500 rpm. At 60 mph, I'm running about 1900 rpm.
If your torque converter is unlocked at higher speeds, you will notice the rpms will fluctuate a lot more as compared to if it were locked. Another way to tell if your torque converter is locked is touch the brakes once you get above 45 mph, your rpms will jump as the tc unlocks.
As to tell what gear it's in, just count the shifts.
Yank it off the transmission and turn the thing by hand.
With an ohmmeter. Since the jumper trick works, I'm thinking the plug connectors or wire along there is bad, and it's somewhere between the jumper and the new NSS(s).
And check the transmission entire harness carefully, especially any areas near the exhaust.
Turning it by hand how will I know what gear it thinks it is in?
I was more asking what am I looking for with the ohmmeter? What reading would be good and what would show a problem? I am thinking the problem would be on the opposite side of the NSS since all three I have tried (the original, and both of the new ones) have the same result.
Turning it by hand how will I know what gear it thinks it is in?
Doesn't matter. This will check to see if the control shaft is where it should be.
I was more asking what am I looking for with the ohmmeter?
Continuity.
What reading would be good
Anything other than
and what would show a problem?
I am thinking the problem would be on the opposite side of the NSS since all three I have tried (the original, and both of the new ones) have the same result.
New nss, Cherokee still won’t start.
