ok,to refresh and hopefully get more input. i have 1992 xj...4.0 h.o. it will get to running temp,around 210-212....and then shut down. when it first happened i replaced the crankshaft position sensor and it ran great for a month....then it started screwin up again. so i took the spa back to NAPA and traded for another....no change runs for about 3- minutes gets to 210-212 and dies.i have replaced the coil...the distributor and pick up module. i have replaced the temp sensor. i have replaced the throttle body and tps and iac.i took the map sensor off my renix jeep and put it on...still throwing fit. i just went out and let it run until it shut down....tested the cps....according to everything i read here it test good...0 ohms. i pulled codes....i get these codes
33..a/c clutch relay
25...idle air control
13..manifold absolute pressure sensor
32...?
43...misfire
that was last nite....tonite i get more codes
12.. battery disconnected
23..intake air temp sensor
22..temp sensor
54..distributor sync
33..a/c clutch relay
45..?
ok...i cant find the codes for the ones with ? marks...and yes i am sure i counted right..but why is it showing all these different codes now. i know the battery isnt disconnected....i cant take this anymore!!!

 

try reseting the ECU.. And see what codes come back...

disconnect battery....
touch the + and - terminals together for a moment..
Reconnect battery
turn key to the on position.. No start
turn on headlights
turn off headlights
turn ignition off

for the next 50 starts ur ecu will relearn your sstem.

 

i dont have time for the 50 start thing.....i cant sit here all nite and try to get codes. if i would have known to do that a month ago it would be different....i really need the jeep fixed like quick. but do you think i need to reset the comp and see if it still throws a fit?

 

the renix map sensor might not be right for your year

 

it had the same part number from oreillys when i looked it up...same as autozone. they looked the same and had the same plug. and it acted the same after changing it...lol...this thing really doesnt want me to be its owner anymore...i have been working on cars for a long time and never had this much issue with any of them.if i dont get it fixed by this weekend i dont get to deer hunt,which i already have money invested in....and i dont have any money to throw away....i work at a farm and home store...so its not like im making it big time. but i also need it fixed because my girlfriend needs transportation to doctors office and right now i either have to take off work or she dont go....so i really need this thing fixed

 

you got a manual id just clear the codes and see which ones come back

 

what about the module in the dist

 

Okay, bear with me for a minute because I'm not as expert as a few of you CF veterans but my logic is, well, logical...

The highest valued code is "54 - Distributor Sync". There appears to be numerical rhyme/reason to a "top-down" approach. The failure, as you described it, appears related to temperature. Distributor Sync makes me think of the Camshaft Position Sensor, among other less important things - for now. If ignition is affected by temperature through God-knows-what elaborate gizmo/process then doesn't it seem reasonable to assume that the ignition trigger is the thing that's cutting-out (at either the sensor or the controller) as a response to the thermal signal?

 

pick up coil has been replaced. the whole distributor come from a running jeep. when the engine dies it does not give a check engine light. so if i took it to a shop would they be able to find something i cant? i just cleared my computer.....i am letting it run until it dies then i will pull codes again.

 

ok,please help me here....its been a very long day for me..lol...ignition trigger? do you mean crankshaft position sensor? if so i checked it for ohms when the motor died...i got no reading. i have changed the temp sensor,im not saying it isnt a bad one...but i still have my doubts sense it acts exactly the same....it will shut off when it reaches 210-212. i even removed the sensor and cooled it in cool water and it still wouldnt start back up until it sits for awhile. does anyone have the correct ohm readings for the temp sensor on a h.o? all i can find is for renix....the renix is supposed to be at 160 ohms at 195 degrees....at 210 i had 630,so i went and bought a new sensor....let it run...210 degrees it dies....i check the ohms....new sensor says a little over 800?

 

ok...ran the engine until it died....after i cleared the codes. all i got was
12...battery disconnected
55..end of code sequence
so obviously there is still something happening but its not throwing codes now

 

ok dumb way to check the relitivity to temp....unplug temp sensor it will run rich but it will take away the variable of it being temp oriented if it shuts off after x-mins then it has nothing to do with temp

 

unplug the coolant temp sensor or the manifold air temp sensor? i havent replaced that one yet....i ran out of time tonite.

 

man they over complicate cars try both one at a time

 

Sorry, I didn't mean to bail on you last-night after my entry but I also had a long day, drank too much, then my brain-sensor shut me down. I was NOT referring to the Crankshaft Position Sensor in my reply - it was Camshaft Position Sensor which, as I think about what I said, makes less sense today. I see that you cleared the codes and now you're back to a 12 and 55. The codes will re-load if real. Be patient and do more run-ups for codes. Have you made any other observations at the stalling-point such as stumble-before-stall, just-plain-stops, or funky-scary-oddball sounds? While it seems to quit at 210-212 (by gauge indication) it seems there are other things to consider and your additional observations may bring different conclusions. Keep trying and Good luck.