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Steering Wheel Removal - not going so great

Old Feb 9, 2019 | 08:32 AM
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Default Steering Wheel Removal - not going so great

Hi Folks,
I'm trying to change the clockspring in my 97 XJ but when I was tightening up the steering wheel puller it just ripped out the threads in the left side hole. I've tried again using the hook attachments but they're too long for me to get much tension on the centre bar.
It looks like this thing was put on by a gorilla because I had to use a bar to loosen the centre nut - it wasn't shifting with just a socket/ratchet handle.
So now I've plus-gassed it and I'm waiting for inspiration.
How nuts can I go on pulling the wheel by hand? I don't want to make it worse by trashing the steering column :/
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Morat
Hi Folks,
I'm trying to change the clockspring in my 97 XJ but when I was tightening up the steering wheel puller it just ripped out the threads in the left side hole. I've tried again using the hook attachments but they're too long for me to get much tension on the centre bar.
It looks like this thing was put on by a gorilla because I had to use a bar to loosen the centre nut - it wasn't shifting with just a socket/ratchet handle.
So now I've plus-gassed it and I'm waiting for inspiration.
How nuts can I go on pulling the wheel by hand? I don't want to make it worse by trashing the steering column :/
Can you put the puller farther in and put a nut and washer on the back of the side that pulled through?
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
Can you put the puller farther in and put a nut and washer on the back of the side that pulled through?

​​​​​​​I don't remember from when I installed cruise in my '00 and looking at pictures is not helping.
But yeah.

Last edited by Ralph77; Feb 9, 2019 at 08:58 AM.
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 08:56 AM
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It sometimes helps when using a puller to snug up the center bolt then tap it with a hammer. The result from the tension/impact often loosens the part very easily.
At this point I would drill & tap the smeared hole for the next size up.
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 10:03 AM
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Drilling and tapping is beyond me, but when I was down at the hardware store looking for nuts that would fit the puller bolts I came up with another plan involving wire rope. With luck, I'll get 'er shifted.
I'm just taking on an emergency maintenance beer while Ireland batter Scotland at Rugby before I get back out there
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 10:11 AM
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I had a similar thing happen on my '99 after the air bag went off. Both sides stripped. I tried a variety of things and finally was able to use longer bolts with a nut on the end. I just happened to have some bolts lying around that were thin enough and long enough and just needed to get nuts for them. Came off with a bang that time.
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 12:04 PM
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I usually get above it with both arms and “wiggle” it hard one side to next while pulling and pull it off by hand .
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 12:30 PM
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Just go gorilla on it. Growing up we never had a wheel puller except our arms/body. Loosen the center nut several turns but do not take it all the way off - if you do the wheel is going to hit you in the face when it finally comes loose. Pull with slightly left then right pressure - with a jerking motion. It will eventually pop loose. Then undo the center nut and slide the wheel off. If it's stubborn it may take several tries.
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Morat
Drilling and tapping is beyond me,
Bah!
Taps like drill bits are extremely hard but brittle. As long as your drilled hole is parallel to the original and you guide the tap straight you'll be fine. Peeps run into probs when they let the tap go sideways and snap that off in the hole, then it's gets real. lol


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Old Feb 10, 2019 | 06:17 AM
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Well I might have to invest in a set of taps. Or something. Because I'm not getting anywhere right now!
I drilled out the original holes (they were blind holes on mine for some reason) so I could put some M6 nuts behind the wheel. They turned out to be a bit small so I found some valve cover nuts from my old BMW which have a wider flange like a built in washer. Them, some M6 bolts and I was ready to go - except after few attempts the M6 bolts are bent, double thickness washers also bent and the end of the centre rod of the puller is now flared outwards. I've also managed to wear a pretty decent dent in the end of the steering column which seems a bit crazy.

Maybe if I tap the holes they'll be deep enough to keep the whole thing straight and I'll get more tension on it before it flops sideways, but I've already had it tight enough to need to breaker bar to turn it and still the wheel won't budge.
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 10:10 AM
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This escalated swiftly

I bought the taps - had a look at what size to cut, bolts to use etc and basically got p'd at the whole thing and dumped it down to the local shop. They had to cut the wheel off. The whole thing has been loctited solid with red and the bearing at the top of the shaft no longer has any ***** in it so I'm now looking to get the complete steering column from the same breaker I got the 2nd hand wheel.
I'm going to look at the poor thing tomorrow so I can get some photos and ask for more advice.
I want my XJ back!
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 11:42 AM
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DAYAM!!! That sucks.
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 04:46 AM
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OK, the current problem is the bearing just behind the wheel which doesn't seem to have any bearings left at all :/
Does anyone know where I can get one of these? I can't seem to find them listed anywhere...


Last edited by Morat; Mar 8, 2019 at 04:52 AM.
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 03:17 PM
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Unfortunately, it maybe time to cut your losses and just replace the column.
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