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Starting a new engine with an old tank of gas

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Old Jun 27, 2018 | 04:44 PM
  #16  
texastaz38's Avatar
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From: Pampa, Texas
Year: 1986
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Engine: 2.5 liter
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Spending 1k to rebuild engine, 14 months of time and labor, and even have to think about wasting $20 dollars of fuel and another Saturday morning to eliminate the chance of having bad fuel......strange logic. Drain the fuel and start fresh.



Happy Jeepin' and good luck.


TexasTaz38
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Old Jun 27, 2018 | 05:34 PM
  #17  
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Originally Posted by texastaz38
Spending 1k to rebuild engine, 14 months of time and labor, and even have to think about wasting $20 dollars of fuel and another Saturday morning to eliminate the chance of having bad fuel......strange logic. Drain the fuel and start fresh.

Yup.
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Old Jun 27, 2018 | 07:25 PM
  #18  
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From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1992
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Engine: 4.0L H.O.
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Originally Posted by texastaz38
Spending 1k to rebuild engine, 14 months of time and labor, and even have to think about wasting $20 dollars of fuel and another Saturday morning to eliminate the chance of having bad fuel......strange logic. Drain the fuel and start fresh.



Happy Jeepin' and good luck.


TexasTaz38
This.

And yes, today's gas does go to ****.Quickly. We have more than a few customers that bring their cars in once a year(when its time for inspection). These cars literally sit for 11mo a year.

Cars that got entirely new fuel systems the year before show up with a tank full of rank brown turpentine.

"Yes I've been driving it once a week like you said to."

No.

No you have not.
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Old Jun 27, 2018 | 08:07 PM
  #19  
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Year: 97
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Originally Posted by TwistedWrench
This.

And yes, today's gas does go to ****.Quickly. We have more than a few customers that bring their cars in once a year(when its time for inspection). These cars literally sit for 11mo a year.

Cars that got entirely new fuel systems the year before show up with a tank full of rank brown turpentine.

"Yes I've been driving it once a week like you said to."

No.

No you have not.
Pretty hard to try and fool the smeller... lol
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Old Jun 27, 2018 | 08:19 PM
  #20  
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Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
Pretty hard to try and fool the smeller... lol
LOL yup. I work on vintage cars. My high tech diagnostic tools are attached to my face.

And theyre pretty well calibrated to detect BS too.
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Old Jun 27, 2018 | 08:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TwistedWrench
LOL yup. I work on vintage cars. My high tech diagnostic tools are attached to my face.

And theyre pretty well calibrated to detect BS too.
Lol...
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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 01:47 PM
  #22  
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So did you try this yet?
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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 02:15 PM
  #23  
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by mannydantyla
If it was me, I would put in new gas and maybe pump out the gas that's sitting in the lines, but I've also been told by old timers that gas these days doesn't go bad like it used to.

Well, if they mean that it doesn't go bad in the same way, they would be right. However, it goes bad much more quickly these days than it used to, at least if it contains ethanol and it isn't completely sealed from the atmosphere.


Luckily we still have 1 pump in my area that still serves 100% gas (91 octane). That is all I will put in my outdoor power equipment and my Bronco since it tends to sit for longer periods of time and doesn't have a sealed fuel system.
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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 02:41 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Tbone289
Well, if they mean that it doesn't go bad in the same way, they would be right. However, it goes bad much more quickly these days than it used to, at least if it contains ethanol and it isn't completely sealed from the atmosphere.


Luckily we still have 1 pump in my area that still serves 100% gas (91 octane). That is all I will put in my outdoor power equipment and my Bronco since it tends to sit for longer periods of time and doesn't have a sealed fuel system.
Yep, it sure does... Nothing like pulling on a starter rope and hearing "*****" because a valve got stuck open from the glue on the stem. THIS is the greatest concern even in cars. If old fuel glues valves open or closed you could be in trouble.
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Old Jul 2, 2018 | 09:06 AM
  #25  
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From: Lawrence ****ing Kansas
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Tbone289
Well, if they mean that it doesn't go bad in the same way, they would be right. However, it goes bad much more quickly these days than it used to, at least if it contains ethanol and it isn't completely sealed from the atmosphere.
I stand corrected! Thanks for the heads up
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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 02:12 PM
  #26  
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From: Tacoma, Washington
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
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I drained the fuel last night.. was easy peasy lemon squeazy.

I pulled the fuel filter. Then I slipped a big 'ol plastic-bin under the tank and let the tank-side fuel-line dangle down. Opened up the engine bay fuse box, and pulled the relay for the fuel pump. (second one in from the left on my '95)
I made a piece of jumper wire and connected the #30 and #87 connectors together. Making the fuel pump run. It drained out the entire tank (turns out I had almost ten gallons of old fuel) in less then 45 minutes. I did stop at about 20 minutes and gave the motor a 10 or so min rest.

Installed the new fuel filter canister. And filled the tank with four gallons of brand new, fresh gas.
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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 03:28 PM
  #27  
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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The trick with putting new lifters on an old cam is this; If the bottom of the old lifters are dished, that means the edges of the cam is starting to wear. The new lifters will be activated by the center of the lobe and wear the NEW ones quickly, then proceed to wear the cam itself in a hurry. If the old lifters are flat on the bottom, there shouldn't be any problem with using new lifters on an old cam.

Keep this in mind though. That bumpstick is as long as the engine and it's a real PITA to pull with the engine in the body. From what I've heard, you have to drop the trans crossmember, disconnect the motor mounts, and jack it up high enough for it to clear the front frame rail AFTER pulling the rad and grill out.
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