Stalls in reverse??? Please help!
#18
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#19
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Sounds like torq converter, but also what fuel system cleaner did you put through it? I used Seafoam and now my ZJ Bucks randomly and stalls in reverse, but after some reading I found that some fuel system cleaners will damage the fuel injectors and cause the "Bucking" problem...
#21
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You "Torque converter guys" nailed it on the head...
Except it wasn't a bad torque converter. It was a binding torque converter.
I have had to follow up behind the morons that put my engine in.
Again.
They didn't tighten the transmission bolts down, and aparently they had worked themselves about 2 turns out. Enough to give me about a 1/4 inch gap between the bell housing and the engine block. Letting the engine shift slightly when it was put in reverse and binding the converter.
I just happened to notice when I had the hood open and blipped the throttle after I cleaned the intake. I saw the motor move and the transmission stay still. Scary huh?
Except it wasn't a bad torque converter. It was a binding torque converter.
I have had to follow up behind the morons that put my engine in.
Again.
They didn't tighten the transmission bolts down, and aparently they had worked themselves about 2 turns out. Enough to give me about a 1/4 inch gap between the bell housing and the engine block. Letting the engine shift slightly when it was put in reverse and binding the converter.
I just happened to notice when I had the hood open and blipped the throttle after I cleaned the intake. I saw the motor move and the transmission stay still. Scary huh?
#22
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Glad you found it. I was racking my brain and couldn't come up with anything else. Never would have thought that the two were not tightly connected. Thanks so much for the update. Will store that away in the two remaining functional brain cells.
Blue
Blue
#24
I wanna say thanks for this thread.
I HAD a problem with my 97 XJ (118k) stalling and bucking only in reverse. I would describe it as "bucking", but in actuality it was cutting out at about 1000 rpm. If I would feather the throttle just below 1000 rpm, it would cut out and in like a rev limiter. I was barely able to manage in a parking lot situation.
The CEL light would flash a code that read there was an issue with the reverse solenoid.
Several related threads discussed checking the IAC, cleaning it, along with the throttle body. I removed and cleaned the IAC, and ran a can of cleaner through IAC port and the throttle body. They were a little dirty, but non-functional filthy. After the cleaning the vehicle idled much smoother when starting up cold, and in reverse I could pull about 1700 rpm before the engine would cut out. My Cherokee was still bucking and stalling in reverse.
This made some sense, because occasionally the engine would completely stall in reverse. The Jeep would then fail to start. It would act like a battery terminal was loose. You know, enough power for the interior then you would turn the ignition over, and no crank, just the clicking of relays.
I replaced the battery terminals along with cleaning the neg. ground to the passenger side fender, along with some dielectric grease. The terminals were long overdue. That didn't fix it. I then cleaned the ground terminal at the bottom of the dipstick. TADA!!!!
This did the trick. I can burn out in reverse now!
I cleaned the engine block to the firewall cable contacts and the two on the driver side wheel well just to avoid future problems.
This forum helped a lot! I just wanted to relate my personal experience for others who might run into the same situation.
I HAD a problem with my 97 XJ (118k) stalling and bucking only in reverse. I would describe it as "bucking", but in actuality it was cutting out at about 1000 rpm. If I would feather the throttle just below 1000 rpm, it would cut out and in like a rev limiter. I was barely able to manage in a parking lot situation.
The CEL light would flash a code that read there was an issue with the reverse solenoid.
Several related threads discussed checking the IAC, cleaning it, along with the throttle body. I removed and cleaned the IAC, and ran a can of cleaner through IAC port and the throttle body. They were a little dirty, but non-functional filthy. After the cleaning the vehicle idled much smoother when starting up cold, and in reverse I could pull about 1700 rpm before the engine would cut out. My Cherokee was still bucking and stalling in reverse.
I replaced the battery terminals along with cleaning the neg. ground to the passenger side fender, along with some dielectric grease. The terminals were long overdue. That didn't fix it. I then cleaned the ground terminal at the bottom of the dipstick. TADA!!!!
This did the trick. I can burn out in reverse now!
I cleaned the engine block to the firewall cable contacts and the two on the driver side wheel well just to avoid future problems.
This forum helped a lot! I just wanted to relate my personal experience for others who might run into the same situation.
Last edited by workingclassxj; 01-02-2014 at 12:03 AM.
#25
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Location: Canton, MI
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I wanna say thanks for this thread.
I HAD a problem with my 97 XJ (118k) stalling and bucking only in reverse. I would describe it as "bucking", but in actuality it was cutting out at about 1000 rpm. If I would feather the throttle just below 1000 rpm, it would cut out and in like a rev limiter. I was barely able to manage in a parking lot situation.
The CEL light would flash a code that read there was an issue with the reverse solenoid.
Several related threads discussed checking the IAC, cleaning it, along with the throttle body. I removed and cleaned the IAC, and ran a can of cleaner through IAC port and the throttle body. They were a little dirty, but non-functional filthy. After the cleaning the vehicle idled much smoother when starting up cold, and in reverse I could pull about 1700 rpm before the engine would cut out. My Cherokee was still bucking and stalling in reverse.
This made some sense, because occasionally the engine would completely stall in reverse. The Jeep would then fail to start. It would act like a battery terminal was loose. You know, enough power for the interior then you would turn the ignition over, and no crank, just the clicking of relays.
I replaced the battery terminals along with cleaning the neg. ground to the passenger side fender, along with some dielectric grease. The terminals were long overdue. That didn't fix it. I then cleaned the ground terminal at the bottom of the dipstick. TADA!!!!
This did the trick. I can burn out in reverse now!
I cleaned the engine block to the firewall cable contacts and the two on the driver side wheel well just to avoid future problems.
This forum helped a lot! I just wanted to relate my personal experience for others who might run into the same situation.
I HAD a problem with my 97 XJ (118k) stalling and bucking only in reverse. I would describe it as "bucking", but in actuality it was cutting out at about 1000 rpm. If I would feather the throttle just below 1000 rpm, it would cut out and in like a rev limiter. I was barely able to manage in a parking lot situation.
The CEL light would flash a code that read there was an issue with the reverse solenoid.
Several related threads discussed checking the IAC, cleaning it, along with the throttle body. I removed and cleaned the IAC, and ran a can of cleaner through IAC port and the throttle body. They were a little dirty, but non-functional filthy. After the cleaning the vehicle idled much smoother when starting up cold, and in reverse I could pull about 1700 rpm before the engine would cut out. My Cherokee was still bucking and stalling in reverse.
This made some sense, because occasionally the engine would completely stall in reverse. The Jeep would then fail to start. It would act like a battery terminal was loose. You know, enough power for the interior then you would turn the ignition over, and no crank, just the clicking of relays.
I replaced the battery terminals along with cleaning the neg. ground to the passenger side fender, along with some dielectric grease. The terminals were long overdue. That didn't fix it. I then cleaned the ground terminal at the bottom of the dipstick. TADA!!!!
This did the trick. I can burn out in reverse now!
I cleaned the engine block to the firewall cable contacts and the two on the driver side wheel well just to avoid future problems.
This forum helped a lot! I just wanted to relate my personal experience for others who might run into the same situation.
#27
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's odd. I thought that the grounds (two wires, one ring terminal) at the oil dipstick tube were for the Data Link Connector.
Does your dipstick ground have more than one 'ring terminal' at this ground point?
Photo would be nice.
Edit: photo of my dipstick ground point ('99 XJ):
Does your dipstick ground have more than one 'ring terminal' at this ground point?
Photo would be nice.
Edit: photo of my dipstick ground point ('99 XJ):
Last edited by CCKen; 01-02-2014 at 10:21 AM.
#28
Reverse Stall Update
All right Ken ... I got a pic.
Don't gripe too much, I know a spark plug wire is in the way, it's snowing heavy here in Indiana, and the vehicle is outside. This is the best I could do with shivering. The white stuff on the block is SNOW ... lol.
Additional notes:
1. I stated earlier that I tested the vehicle after cleaning the "oil dipstick" ground. I was incorrect. I actually cleaned the dipstick ground and the engine to firewall ground then tested it. At that time the reverse problem was solved.
2. Earlier I stated that the vehicle would stall out in reverse and fail to restart, as if it had a loose terminal. The vehicle had 50 psi of fuel pressure with the ignition in the start position. I found I could start the vehicle by using jumper on the starter relay.
I dunno? Forgive me for my ignorance.
Don't gripe too much, I know a spark plug wire is in the way, it's snowing heavy here in Indiana, and the vehicle is outside. This is the best I could do with shivering. The white stuff on the block is SNOW ... lol.
Additional notes:
1. I stated earlier that I tested the vehicle after cleaning the "oil dipstick" ground. I was incorrect. I actually cleaned the dipstick ground and the engine to firewall ground then tested it. At that time the reverse problem was solved.
2. Earlier I stated that the vehicle would stall out in reverse and fail to restart, as if it had a loose terminal. The vehicle had 50 psi of fuel pressure with the ignition in the start position. I found I could start the vehicle by using jumper on the starter relay.
I dunno? Forgive me for my ignorance.
Last edited by workingclassxj; 01-03-2014 at 12:34 AM.
#29
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Canton, MI
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
All right Ken ... I got a pic.
Don't gripe too much, I know a spark plug wire is in the way, it's snowing heavy here in Indiana, and the vehicle is outside. This is the best I could do with shivering. The white stuff on the block is SNOW ... lol.
Additional notes:
1. I stated earlier that I tested the vehicle after cleaning the "oil dipstick" ground. I was incorrect. I actually cleaned the dipstick ground and the engine to firewall ground then tested it. At that time the reverse problem was solved.
2. Earlier I stated that the vehicle would stall out in reverse and fail to restart, as if it had a loose terminal. The vehicle had 50 psi of fuel pressure with the ignition in the start position. I found I could start the vehicle by using jumper on the starter relay.
I dunno? Forgive me for my ignorance.
Don't gripe too much, I know a spark plug wire is in the way, it's snowing heavy here in Indiana, and the vehicle is outside. This is the best I could do with shivering. The white stuff on the block is SNOW ... lol.
Additional notes:
1. I stated earlier that I tested the vehicle after cleaning the "oil dipstick" ground. I was incorrect. I actually cleaned the dipstick ground and the engine to firewall ground then tested it. At that time the reverse problem was solved.
2. Earlier I stated that the vehicle would stall out in reverse and fail to restart, as if it had a loose terminal. The vehicle had 50 psi of fuel pressure with the ignition in the start position. I found I could start the vehicle by using jumper on the starter relay.
I dunno? Forgive me for my ignorance.
That is your DLC ground.
I suspect that by cleaning the firewall ground you provided a clean ground path from the battery gound post to the chassis via the engine ground at the ignition coil mount studs.
The original ground problem may still exist at the ground connected to the right inner fender, next to the battery. This is the main battery to chassis ground. The firewall ground is a radio interferance suppressor bonding strap but does provide a ground path to the chassis. If you get a chance, remove that short cable from the battery ground post to the right inner fender and clean the ring terminal and remove the rust from the fender. Reassemble using a new bolt, if you can.
Edit: I just reviewed what you had written earlier where you said you cleaned the ground at the fender. I also noticed that you said you used Dielectric Grease. Dielectric grease should not be used because it is an insulator, not a conductor. Dielectric grease will only agrivate a poor ground connection. If anything, you should use a product called 'OxGard' on the ground connections. OxGard is available t Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
Last edited by CCKen; 01-03-2014 at 08:59 AM.
#30
I wanna say thanks for this thread.
I HAD a problem with my 97 XJ (118k) stalling and bucking only in reverse. I would describe it as "bucking", but in actuality it was cutting out at about 1000 rpm. If I would feather the throttle just below 1000 rpm, it would cut out and in like a rev limiter. I was barely able to manage in a parking lot situation.
The CEL light would flash a code that read there was an issue with the reverse solenoid.
Several related threads discussed checking the IAC, cleaning it, along with the throttle body. I removed and cleaned the IAC, and ran a can of cleaner through IAC port and the throttle body. They were a little dirty, but non-functional filthy. After the cleaning the vehicle idled much smoother when starting up cold, and in reverse I could pull about 1700 rpm before the engine would cut out. My Cherokee was still bucking and stalling in reverse.
This made some sense, because occasionally the engine would completely stall in reverse. The Jeep would then fail to start. It would act like a battery terminal was loose. You know, enough power for the interior then you would turn the ignition over, and no crank, just the clicking of relays.
I replaced the battery terminals along with cleaning the neg. ground to the passenger side fender, along with some dielectric grease. The terminals were long overdue. That didn't fix it. I then cleaned the ground terminal at the bottom of the dipstick. TADA!!!!
This did the trick. I can burn out in reverse now!
I cleaned the engine block to the firewall cable contacts and the two on the driver side wheel well just to avoid future problems.
This forum helped a lot! I just wanted to relate my personal experience for others who might run into the same situation.
I HAD a problem with my 97 XJ (118k) stalling and bucking only in reverse. I would describe it as "bucking", but in actuality it was cutting out at about 1000 rpm. If I would feather the throttle just below 1000 rpm, it would cut out and in like a rev limiter. I was barely able to manage in a parking lot situation.
The CEL light would flash a code that read there was an issue with the reverse solenoid.
Several related threads discussed checking the IAC, cleaning it, along with the throttle body. I removed and cleaned the IAC, and ran a can of cleaner through IAC port and the throttle body. They were a little dirty, but non-functional filthy. After the cleaning the vehicle idled much smoother when starting up cold, and in reverse I could pull about 1700 rpm before the engine would cut out. My Cherokee was still bucking and stalling in reverse.
This made some sense, because occasionally the engine would completely stall in reverse. The Jeep would then fail to start. It would act like a battery terminal was loose. You know, enough power for the interior then you would turn the ignition over, and no crank, just the clicking of relays.
I replaced the battery terminals along with cleaning the neg. ground to the passenger side fender, along with some dielectric grease. The terminals were long overdue. That didn't fix it. I then cleaned the ground terminal at the bottom of the dipstick. TADA!!!!
This did the trick. I can burn out in reverse now!
I cleaned the engine block to the firewall cable contacts and the two on the driver side wheel well just to avoid future problems.
This forum helped a lot! I just wanted to relate my personal experience for others who might run into the same situation.
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