paul81

I've got a 97 cherokee with the manual transmission that's likes to stall in stop and go traffic. I'm mechanically inclined in that I can follow directions to fix something but my knowledge isn't enough to diagnose well enough to know what to fix.

Trans and tcase oil were both drained and refilled a few months back but the problem predates that anyway. Oil and water gauges both sit dead center though I know they could be wrong. I generally feel a bit of warmth coming through the center console where to trans/tcase are though have been told that's normal.

It generally takes about 15 minutes before I can start back up which really sucks when I'm in the middle of the freeway (or worse the middle of the bay bridge like the last time it happened).

It's a 97 cherokee with a straight six and as best I can tell the stock trans, I was told the tcase was upgraded but can't verify that at the moment. Front diff I know has a locker, not sure about the rear diff. Both diffs are next on my list for an oil drain and refill.

Any ideas of where I should look or what to check?

RTorrez1

Start be having it checked for any codes. This will give you somewhere to start looking. Also when it stalls out does it give any kind of warning such as rough idle. Or does it just shut off like you turned the key off? If it You need to see what you are missing when it shuts off such as spark or fuel.

Bustedback

Will it keep running if you keep your foot on the gas?

cruiser54

Do this first:

Courtesy of TJWalker:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is moved in, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is moved out, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea.

CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL

Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to)

“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged

Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and is best for this task. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.

Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner

It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled

Mitch XJ

I am had similar problem with my jeep except it would always start right back up. Mine would occasionally stall when i would come to a stop. It ended up being the pick up coil. Might be would a try to test it with a multimeter.

paul81

I've done the key on off code check before and not gotten codes, but sadly have never thought to do it after a stall.

No sign that it's about to die, and it's exactly like just turn the key off. No rough idle or odd sounds or anything. Just one one second off the next.

I'll do the throttle body as soon as I can for good measure, though the engine was replaced a little over a year ago after my water pump went out and blew the head gasket and then seized the engine (long story), but I feel like the problem predates that as it stalled a few times not long after I'd gotten it while I was 'learning' how to do some light 4x4 stuff. Had just assumed I was doing something weird at that point and wrote it off as not knowing what the hell I was doing. This is after all my first 4x4.

I'm honestly thinking it has to do with something overheating since the console over the transmission area always gets super warm, and by the time it does turn back on that area has cooled down. But that's just my slightly uneducated guess.

peep

If you clean with a toothbrush, it should be an in-laws for best results.