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Spongy Brakes :bs:

Old Aug 31, 2021 | 07:01 PM
  #1  
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
Default Spongy Brakes :bs:

I got into an accident in the rain and later found out my brake line was leaking, so I replaced it all the way. I bled the brakes and still found that the pedal was spongy so I replaced the master cylinder. The MC was seized to the booster, so I replaced the booster.
Still spongy. I then found out that another seal in the NEW master cylinder was faulty, so I replaced it again and bled all the brakes once more in correct order. Still spongy, I can not seem to figure out the problem and I would like some tips.
Please help!! I've been at this for weeks now trying to understand. Thank you!
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 07:31 AM
  #2  
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From: Eastern Long Island, NY
Year: 1996
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Are you bleeding the Master Cylinder before installing it? If so, how are you doing it?
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 05:42 PM
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Bench bled on my vise with a nut driver multiple times, tapped the cylinder and installed. Brake pedal doesn't go all the way down to the floor so I don't believe its the master cylinder.
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Old Sep 2, 2021 | 07:51 AM
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It took me forever to bleed my new master cylinder. I kept seeing bubbles floating out of the reservoir. Whatever the amount of pumps was suggested, I ended up doing twice that. I think you almost want to tilt the cylinder a little bit for some of the process to get the air to move around and come out. Other than that, bleed your lines again and check for leaks. Good luck.
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Old Sep 2, 2021 | 07:50 PM
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Year: 1998
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It is really hard to bleed the brakes on these things. I had a hell of a time after doing a rear disc swap and they were spongy as hell after about 4 attempts. Finally took it to Brakes Plus and spent the 50 bucks and they were able to get them bled great. They have a machine that does a much better job than we can in our driveway. Not saying it can't be done, but my time was much more valuable.
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Old Sep 3, 2021 | 03:37 AM
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From: North Augusta, SC
Year: 1998
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On the subject of bleeding brakes:
- Bench bleed the master before installing (check)
- Have a helper pump the brake pedal a few times then hold. Crack the line(s) one at a time at the master cylinder to let any trapped air at the line(s) out at that exact spot.
- Gravity bleed at the right rear, then left rear, right front, then left front.
- Sometimes, a reverse (pressure bleed) is necessary.

As far as spongy pedal goes:
- Check the rear wheel cylinders to make sure they aren't blowing brake fluid all over your shoes.
- Check your hoses to make sure they aren't turning into balloons when the brakes are pushed.
- Check your calipers to make sure the slides aren't jammed up. I've seen that happen a few times.
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Old Sep 3, 2021 | 01:54 PM
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Had a helper bleed the front brakes, okay.
Gravity bled the rear in correct order as well.
Brand new wheel cylinders, now when I push the brake pedal, the sound of air is coming out so I am assuming that the brake booster is faulty, even though I had replaced it with an SKP manufactured one.
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Old Sep 7, 2021 | 01:10 PM
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check those new wheel cylinders to be sure the bleeder is above the brake line. if not, they are on the wrong sides.
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Old Sep 27, 2022 | 03:41 PM
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..
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Old Sep 27, 2022 | 03:42 PM
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How did you go with this?
I know its a year old but OP was active last month.

Having had a spongy brakepedal and air hissing for a long time as I can remember I'll need to revise that since my front wheels are now pretty much locking up after a 10 min drive...(might just start e new thread but thought to ask how this went first)

Some years ago I put in a new MC in and bled with over 1 liter of fluid without any change.
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