Spinning Wheel Stud
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Spinning Wheel Stud
Help! I've done messed up my first wheel stud install. Didn't space the nut out far enough and I managed to bottom it out before the stud went all the way through. Tried to back it out and now the studs spinning along with the nut. Tried to vice grip it and it didn't hold. Tried to use a clamp and a larger socket to push it in farther without any luck. Any help guys???
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Year: 1986
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Engine: 5.0
If you have a welder, put a couple tacks on the backside to hopefully hold it and with luck the nut will spin off. Cut the tacks, clean the hub and try again if the splines are good.
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Another thing to try, if you have enough room to swing a big hammer, is to pound against he head of the stud and drive it into the rotor enough to get a good grip and you should be able to spin off the nut. I have watched a few mechanics use an air hammer to seat the stun into the rotor when they only have 1 nut available and don't want to ruin the nut.
Using the stud over again?? If after you get the stud out, look at the threads for damage. If really mashed up, replace with a new one. If you can spin the nut on the stud by hand without much resistance, then go ahead and use it.
Using the stud over again?? If after you get the stud out, look at the threads for damage. If really mashed up, replace with a new one. If you can spin the nut on the stud by hand without much resistance, then go ahead and use it.
Last edited by Bigclubs; 01-07-2012 at 07:51 PM.
#6
I just did this exact same thing trying to replace a rear wheel stud.
It wasnt pulled all the way through the axle flange, and the nut bottomed, and spun the stud.
Once the stud starts spinning, it ruins the knurled part that bites into the axle flange. You wont be able to re-use it.
I used a cutoff wheel to remove it, and start over.
Had to go buy another new stud, and nut. I also bought a cheap open end nut to pull the stud through this time, and a little WD40 on the threads to make sure the nut didnt bind with the force it took. 1/2x20 thread.
It wasnt pulled all the way through the axle flange, and the nut bottomed, and spun the stud.
Once the stud starts spinning, it ruins the knurled part that bites into the axle flange. You wont be able to re-use it.
I used a cutoff wheel to remove it, and start over.
Had to go buy another new stud, and nut. I also bought a cheap open end nut to pull the stud through this time, and a little WD40 on the threads to make sure the nut didnt bind with the force it took. 1/2x20 thread.
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It is definately ill-advised, but you CAN run with only four wheel studs for a brief period of time, like if you need to limp out of the boondocks in low gear, or if you have no choice and just MUST drive it to work. Drive slow, brake very easy, and replace that stud at the absolute first possible moment.
I stopped to help a guy on the highway who had several lug nuts loosen up, and nearly lost the wheel. He lost one lug nut and had damaged the threads on the rest of the studs. We were like 50 miles from El Paso. Using my 4-way, we muscled the remaining four nuts back over the damaged threads and limped it to town at like 20 mph. I don't recommend it, but it is possible.
I stopped to help a guy on the highway who had several lug nuts loosen up, and nearly lost the wheel. He lost one lug nut and had damaged the threads on the rest of the studs. We were like 50 miles from El Paso. Using my 4-way, we muscled the remaining four nuts back over the damaged threads and limped it to town at like 20 mph. I don't recommend it, but it is possible.
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#8
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I might try to hack saw or saws-all a groove in the head of the stud if you can reach. Then hold something in the slot with a vise-grips. Just a thought. Bummer btw.
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It is definately ill-advised, but you CAN run with only four wheel studs for a brief period of time, like if you need to limp out of the boondocks in low gear, or if you have no choice and just MUST drive it to work. Drive slow, brake very easy, and replace that stud at the absolute first possible moment.
I stopped to help a guy on the highway who had several lug nuts loosen up, and nearly lost the wheel. He lost one lug nut and had damaged the threads on the rest of the studs. We were like 50 miles from El Paso. Using my 4-way, we muscled the remaining four nuts back over the damaged threads and limped it to town at like 20 mph. I don't recommend it, but it is possible.
I stopped to help a guy on the highway who had several lug nuts loosen up, and nearly lost the wheel. He lost one lug nut and had damaged the threads on the rest of the studs. We were like 50 miles from El Paso. Using my 4-way, we muscled the remaining four nuts back over the damaged threads and limped it to town at like 20 mph. I don't recommend it, but it is possible.
Mustang 5.0s only used 4 studs from 79-93. A built 5.0 has got a lot more horsepower than a stock Jeep 4.0.
Last edited by Firestorm500; 01-08-2012 at 10:56 PM.
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trick with the vice grips, if you'll tighten it down to just where you can barely clamp it down with you hand, tighten it more. Grab you some channel locks and open them up wide and clamp it down with them. If it wont grip now, then you got some serious force going on lol
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