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Smog check help please!

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Old 07-07-2012, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
They don't flow any more fuel than the stock injectors,
I'd assume if they did the ECU would just dial them back anyway based on the O2 sensor.
Old 07-08-2012, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
They don't flow any more fuel than the stock injectors, they just have a better pattern for improved atomization.
Check the EGR valve and make sure it's not hung open causing a lean misfire.
Well, I'm relatively new here, and really new on the injection system, and very thankful to people like Bustedback for "helpen learnen".

I got that the puter' uses the "pulse width" (injector open time?), to control the end mix. It will take a shot at it with the MAP signal and various other things, the IAT, and CTS temps in there with the rest. Then to finish, the 02 sensor gives the final "trim"?. So it the stock injectors had an 18.6 lbs/hr flow rate, and the 703's are higher. guessing 20 something? In "open loop" (not using the 02), it seems to me it WOULD indeed be rich. Then the idea is that warmed up, the 02 kicks in and finishes the trim correctly. Idk, a 22 0r 24 lb/minute injector is too high for the 02 to compensate for , might be the case, but the 703's, if the 02 IS working, it can be done. (since my 02 was crap, mine ran so rich it wouldn't hardly even warm up!)

Since I make allot of short trips, I might conciser going to a 4 hole with the (already mentioned better atomization). with the 18.6 rate, so I wasn't running rich in open loop. (my first 10 min is always down hill, and I'm 1/2 way there!)

(I should check my EGR valve as well) A potential built in vacuum leak

Just now I'm thinking...if all that fuel makes it run cool, and it won't lean it out till it warms up.....maybe using 703's in a cool climate, living on the top of a big hill is not my best mileage option.
Old 07-09-2012, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by letinsh

In order, I would take these actions:
  • Air filter
  • Verify O2 functionality and replace if defective
  • TPS, MAP and CTS checks and adjustments
  • Check for vacuum leaks
Here is a good guide for checking the sensors in our RENIX systems:
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm

Cruiser54 on this forum pretty much knows it all. Here's a collection of his write-ups:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f23/te...itings-136452/
Busy weekend, and HOT here in LV, only had a little while to work on the old girl...
Air filter looks good, changed anyway. Noticed a 1.5" light, flexible hose running from the supply air side of the airbox towards the back of the engine, and just hanging there, about 20" long, what the heck is that for??
MAT sensor tested fine per the test on the Lunghd link.
O2 sensor tested 336 ohms (Lundgh wanted 5-7ohms) so stopped there, figured on replacing that. Didn't run the second test with the engine running, do you think that is necessary? Any preferences on brand/auto parts store to get them from?

Thanks again for the help!!!
Old 07-10-2012, 01:56 AM
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NTK is good. Here they had them at both Napa and Car Quest. If you chop the wires on the old one you can get a 7/8 box wrench on it.
Old 07-10-2012, 06:47 AM
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Does this help?
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Old 08-12-2012, 03:23 PM
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Thanks again for the help, we passed smog today!
Disappointing that they don't give you the numbers when you pass, but we'll get over it!

The solution ended up being the O2 sensor and the 715-1367 NAPA hoses. The troubleshooting and inspecting with my son = priceless.

Now the fun starts, actually driving it around!

Still some work to do, so I'll be scouring the threads for AC and other stuff. Thanks Lentish for the great pics and play-by-plays. We have to change the diff fluid, and your thread is great on that.

Along those lines... the injectors I bought turned out to be not 703's but 746 (0280155746 orange). Cannot find much mention of these, any experts here? I will probably start a new thread on that... since the smog is done!
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