Should I use plummers tape on my brake system?
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From: Prescott, AZ
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Installing a new rear brake line today and was just wondering if it was a bad idea to use plumbers tape to help prevent leaks. Anyone done this?
Last edited by Dan4governor; Mar 16, 2010 at 12:46 PM.
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From: Southern California
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Prescott, AZ
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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From: Peterborough, On
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
brake fluid will just eat the plumbers tape if its leaking, so there is no point of putting any therejust make sure your old line fitting is clean and that the threads are not damage and it will not leak
Just inspect the flared ends of the tubing and the seat they mate with - if there are no cracks, bumps, or other surface deformities, you won't have any trouble. If there are, replace the part.
Technically speaking, it's an "SAE Double Flare" - there are two layers to the flare on the tubing end (it's flared OUT and then back IN) and the entirety of sealing is done with the flare and seat - the flare nut is just there to force the two parts into contact.
Just make sure to use flare nut wrenches on these jobs - those flare nuts are soft, and will round off easily (I can invariably tell when someone tried to use an open-end wrench on a brake line, and it usually increases the time and money involved in the job...)
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From: Prescott, AZ
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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From: St Augustine Florida
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Teflon tape.. is used to seal threads... brake lines have a double flare on end of line that makes the seal... if you one is leaking then its not TIGHT enough...
P/S Plumbers tape is a strip of metal with holes in it ever inch i think...and comes in a roll
P/S Plumbers tape is a strip of metal with holes in it ever inch i think...and comes in a roll
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From: Bristol,Pa
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Here in Pa we use road salt... after several years i usually seem to have issues with breaking a line free without destroying it.
Has anyone used just a tad of anti-sieze on the threads to help aid removal? I have line wrenches as suggested.. but sometimes thats not enough.
Has anyone used just a tad of anti-sieze on the threads to help aid removal? I have line wrenches as suggested.. but sometimes thats not enough.
Here in Pa we use road salt... after several years i usually seem to have issues with breaking a line free without destroying it.
Has anyone used just a tad of anti-sieze on the threads to help aid removal? I have line wrenches as suggested.. but sometimes thats not enough.
Has anyone used just a tad of anti-sieze on the threads to help aid removal? I have line wrenches as suggested.. but sometimes thats not enough.
With or without, the rule of thumb for brake lines is "Two Flats Past Finger Tight," then tighten (gently!) PRN. You generally will not need to tho - if you do, you've probably got a damaged fitting.
Since you're torquing using an angle, the antifriction properties of never-seez don't come into play (if you were torquing using a given turning force, it would be a factor.)
Banjo bolts, by the way, are 1/2-turn past finger tight, always use new "dead soft" copper washers.
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I agree! Don't use any sealant on the threads. unless there is damage you won't have any leaks!
