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Should I use plummers tape on my brake system?

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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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Default Should I use plummers tape on my brake system?

Installing a new rear brake line today and was just wondering if it was a bad idea to use plumbers tape to help prevent leaks. Anyone done this?

Last edited by Dan4governor; Mar 16, 2010 at 12:46 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:16 AM
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stock rubber line?

install it as is..they damn near last forever anyway.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:17 AM
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not on the flared connections itll lead to more leaks because it wont allow the flares to seal.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:19 AM
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oh i c you mean on the treads...no you dont need it its a inverted flare seal....no a NPT.
install it dry.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:32 AM
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plumbers

sorry, spelling bothers me sometimes.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 98 JeepJeep
oh i c you mean on the treads...no you dont need it its a inverted flare seal....no a NPT.
install it dry.
I agree! Don't use any sealant on the threads. unless there is damage you won't have any leaks!
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by superj
plumbers

sorry, spelling bothers me sometimes.
you're right, I'm an idiot. spelling bothers me too.
Thanks for the input, it's what I wanted to hear.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 04:24 PM
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brake fluid will just eat the plumbers tape if its leaking, so there is no point of putting any therejust make sure your old line fitting is clean and that the threads are not damage and it will not leak
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 01:22 AM
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update...

installed new lines without plumbers tape...no leaks. Thanks!
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan4governor
update...

installed new lines without plumbers tape...no leaks. Thanks!
You done good.

Just inspect the flared ends of the tubing and the seat they mate with - if there are no cracks, bumps, or other surface deformities, you won't have any trouble. If there are, replace the part.

Technically speaking, it's an "SAE Double Flare" - there are two layers to the flare on the tubing end (it's flared OUT and then back IN) and the entirety of sealing is done with the flare and seat - the flare nut is just there to force the two parts into contact.

Just make sure to use flare nut wrenches on these jobs - those flare nuts are soft, and will round off easily (I can invariably tell when someone tried to use an open-end wrench on a brake line, and it usually increases the time and money involved in the job...)
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 5-90
Just make sure to use flare nut wrenches on these jobs -
no joke. bought one just for this job, made my life about a thousand times easier.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 11:18 AM
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Teflon tape.. is used to seal threads... brake lines have a double flare on end of line that makes the seal... if you one is leaking then its not TIGHT enough...
P/S Plumbers tape is a strip of metal with holes in it ever inch i think...and comes in a roll
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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its funny how people use the term plumbers tape for both teflon tape and utility strapping

anyways +1 to everyone about not using it
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 12:08 PM
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Here in Pa we use road salt... after several years i usually seem to have issues with breaking a line free without destroying it.

Has anyone used just a tad of anti-sieze on the threads to help aid removal? I have line wrenches as suggested.. but sometimes thats not enough.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by OverlandXJ
Here in Pa we use road salt... after several years i usually seem to have issues with breaking a line free without destroying it.

Has anyone used just a tad of anti-sieze on the threads to help aid removal? I have line wrenches as suggested.. but sometimes thats not enough.
Yes, never-seez works well.

With or without, the rule of thumb for brake lines is "Two Flats Past Finger Tight," then tighten (gently!) PRN. You generally will not need to tho - if you do, you've probably got a damaged fitting.

Since you're torquing using an angle, the antifriction properties of never-seez don't come into play (if you were torquing using a given turning force, it would be a factor.)

Banjo bolts, by the way, are 1/2-turn past finger tight, always use new "dead soft" copper washers.
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