Should I just go to a mechanic?
#1
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4.0
Should I just go to a mechanic?
Hey guys. I'm writing to ask about differentials. I have a 1988 Jeep Cherokee that's been skipping gears in the back for some time now; when driving, you will hear a "bang" as the gear skips every once in a while. I *know* this is a bad thing, but this is my only way of getting to work to get the money to fix the problem in the first place, so I'm kinda stuck.
I have no idea how hard it is to fix one of these, or of what the costs tend to be getting it done. What price ranges should I expect on something like this, and is it possible to do it myself? I've heard the tools required are really expensive in and of themselves... in the $150 to $250 price range, and then there's the parts.
How should I go about this, and what sort of overall cost should I expect?
I have no idea how hard it is to fix one of these, or of what the costs tend to be getting it done. What price ranges should I expect on something like this, and is it possible to do it myself? I've heard the tools required are really expensive in and of themselves... in the $150 to $250 price range, and then there's the parts.
How should I go about this, and what sort of overall cost should I expect?
#4
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The term 'swapping the rear axle out' probably sounds pretty overwhelming to you.
I assure you it's not as hard as it sounds. It's basic hand tools and sockets really. No fancy tools just for swapping them out. The 'fancy tools' are for rebuilding the diff, setting the gears, etc etc.
Just jack the rear end up and put jackstands on the body of the jeep. Undo the brakelines, the ubolts, and the driveshaft and the rear axle will pull right out.
Buy new U-bolts. A lot of U-bolts are super old and super rusty. Don't waste your time tinkering with them. Just cut them off.
I think the brakelines are 3/8" but i could be wrong. Get a 'line wrench' so you don't round off the connections.
The rear driveshaft should be (4) 5/16" bolts. You're going to need either a open ended wrench or a 1/4" ratchet as a 3/8" ratchet will be too big to get on there.
Ask us for all the help you need. We'll be happy to assist.
I assure you it's not as hard as it sounds. It's basic hand tools and sockets really. No fancy tools just for swapping them out. The 'fancy tools' are for rebuilding the diff, setting the gears, etc etc.
Just jack the rear end up and put jackstands on the body of the jeep. Undo the brakelines, the ubolts, and the driveshaft and the rear axle will pull right out.
Buy new U-bolts. A lot of U-bolts are super old and super rusty. Don't waste your time tinkering with them. Just cut them off.
I think the brakelines are 3/8" but i could be wrong. Get a 'line wrench' so you don't round off the connections.
The rear driveshaft should be (4) 5/16" bolts. You're going to need either a open ended wrench or a 1/4" ratchet as a 3/8" ratchet will be too big to get on there.
Ask us for all the help you need. We'll be happy to assist.
#5
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Agreed, don't try to fix it, find a used one. I might pull the cover and make sure you don't just have loose bolts. IIRC the one I got had the E-brake cables still on it, saved some hassle.
#6
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
The term 'swapping the rear axle out' probably sounds pretty overwhelming to you.
I assure you it's not as hard as it sounds. It's basic hand tools and sockets really. No fancy tools just for swapping them out. The 'fancy tools' are for rebuilding the diff, setting the gears, etc etc.
Just jack the rear end up and put jackstands on the body of the jeep. Undo the brakelines, the ubolts, and the driveshaft and the rear axle will pull right out.
Buy new U-bolts. A lot of U-bolts are super old and super rusty. Don't waste your time tinkering with them. Just cut them off.
I think the brakelines are 3/8" but i could be wrong. Get a 'line wrench' so you don't round off the connections.
The rear driveshaft should be (4) 5/16" bolts. You're going to need either a open ended wrench or a 1/4" ratchet as a 3/8" ratchet will be too big to get on there.
Ask us for all the help you need. We'll be happy to assist.
I assure you it's not as hard as it sounds. It's basic hand tools and sockets really. No fancy tools just for swapping them out. The 'fancy tools' are for rebuilding the diff, setting the gears, etc etc.
Just jack the rear end up and put jackstands on the body of the jeep. Undo the brakelines, the ubolts, and the driveshaft and the rear axle will pull right out.
Buy new U-bolts. A lot of U-bolts are super old and super rusty. Don't waste your time tinkering with them. Just cut them off.
I think the brakelines are 3/8" but i could be wrong. Get a 'line wrench' so you don't round off the connections.
The rear driveshaft should be (4) 5/16" bolts. You're going to need either a open ended wrench or a 1/4" ratchet as a 3/8" ratchet will be too big to get on there.
Ask us for all the help you need. We'll be happy to assist.
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#8
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4.0
Quick question because I apparently suck at web searches. >_<;
I live in the Medford, NY area. Can anyone help me locate a good yard nearby that might have what I need? I saw someone recommend Craigslist, but I've heard of a lot of people getting burned through that place, so I'd like to be able to go and look at the axle myself if I can.
I live in the Medford, NY area. Can anyone help me locate a good yard nearby that might have what I need? I saw someone recommend Craigslist, but I've heard of a lot of people getting burned through that place, so I'd like to be able to go and look at the axle myself if I can.
#9
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4.0
One more question.
I've been looking into new U-bolts, and I see 1310 and 1330 and 1350 when referring to them. What do these numbers stand for? The size of the part, or the thickness of the bolts, or...?
I've been looking into new U-bolts, and I see 1310 and 1330 and 1350 when referring to them. What do these numbers stand for? The size of the part, or the thickness of the bolts, or...?
#10
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Check craigslist for a 'part out'. Try to find a jeep with the rear axle still in tact and pull it yourself. Chances are he's not parting it out because the rear axle is shot.
Just make sure to get one with the same gear ratio as yours. What year/engine/tranny do you have?
How far are you willing to drive to get an axle?
Do you mean U-Bolts or U-joints?
U-bolts depend on what rear axle you have.
8.25 - http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...T-KIT-3.00-X-9
D35 - http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...KIT-2.75-X-9-X
As for U-joints;
All u-joint style drive shafts use 1310 type (5-153x) u-joints.
D30 axles use either 5-260x or 5-297x (which has been replaced by 5-760x).
1989-95 with ABS have 5-297x u-joints. All 1995+ have 5-297x u-joints. All others have 5-260x u-joints.
Just make sure to get one with the same gear ratio as yours. What year/engine/tranny do you have?
How far are you willing to drive to get an axle?
Do you mean U-Bolts or U-joints?
U-bolts depend on what rear axle you have.
8.25 - http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...T-KIT-3.00-X-9
D35 - http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...KIT-2.75-X-9-X
As for U-joints;
All u-joint style drive shafts use 1310 type (5-153x) u-joints.
D30 axles use either 5-260x or 5-297x (which has been replaced by 5-760x).
1989-95 with ABS have 5-297x u-joints. All 1995+ have 5-297x u-joints. All others have 5-260x u-joints.
#13
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Year: 90,84
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Maybe just use the actual yellow pages, call 1/2 a dozen "dismantlers", nearby and check prices.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 06-06-2013 at 02:28 PM.
#14
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Post up in the thread below. It's guys local to you. Perhaps they could help you.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f41/
PS. I posted a request for help in that thread already for ya.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f41/
PS. I posted a request for help in that thread already for ya.
Last edited by cruiser54; 06-06-2013 at 07:16 AM.