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Shifting problems

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Old 12-26-2012, 05:53 PM
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Default Shifting problems

So I got a 95 Cherokee 4.0 auto with around 140k and it isn't shifting right. It revs up to around 2500 rpm before shifting, even when accelerating lightly. I took her out on Christmas Eve and went through some mud and puddles and after that it just hasn't been right. Anyone know what's wrong and what to do?
Old 12-26-2012, 05:55 PM
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adjust the TV kickdown cable at the throttle body
Old 12-26-2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryan98XJ
adjust the TV kickdown cable at the throttle body

That, and your TPS might have gotten wet and ruined.

Here's how to do the TV cable adjustment.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
Old 12-26-2012, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryan98XJ
adjust the TV kickdown cable at the throttle body
x2

i just did mine tonight, holy H*ll does it fly now

i just did a post on it today...should be a few up or down from this thread

search google, cherokee forum here or youtube on how to do it

you wont believe the difference!
Old 12-26-2012, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by black2000xj
x2

i just did mine tonight, holy H*ll does it fly now

i just did a post on it today...should be a few up or down from this thread

search google, cherokee forum here or youtube on how to do it

you wont believe the difference!

Or, click on the link in the post above yours............
Old 12-26-2012, 06:23 PM
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Thanks ill try out the cable adjustment but what is the tps?
Old 12-26-2012, 06:29 PM
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Throttle position sensor.
Old 12-26-2012, 06:40 PM
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I'm going to agree with the TPS. It's a sensor located on the throttle body. They do not like water.
Old 12-26-2012, 07:41 PM
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Along with the throttle cable adjustment that was recommended, the TPS is absolutely very high on the suspect list. Test and or replace it. Very common and directly related to shifting of the AW4 automatic transmission.
-----------------------------------------------------------
The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
Old 12-26-2012, 07:57 PM
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Thanks everyone I really appreciate it
Old 12-26-2012, 08:23 PM
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Would adjusting the TV cable fix my shifting issue? It shifts fine going from 1st...to 2nd... to 3rd. But, from 3rd to OD, the RPM goes really high before going in to OD; it's not slipping... it's taking forever to shift. Or, could this be the shift solenoid?
Old 12-26-2012, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Gauge
Would adjusting the TV cable fix my shifting issue? It shifts fine going from 1st...to 2nd... to 3rd. But, from 3rd to OD, the RPM goes really high before going in to OD; it's not slipping... it's taking forever to shift. Or, could this be the shift solenoid?
Here's a thought. Since it takes less time to adjust the cable than type a post, and it surely needs it anyway, why not just do it?
Old 12-26-2012, 09:58 PM
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I thought about doing it. It's parked 7 miles away

... and I'm still thinking about doing it.
Old 12-27-2012, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Gauge
I thought about doing it. It's parked 7 miles away

... and I'm still thinking about doing it.
The you're off the hook on the 7 miles thing. Quit thinking about it and do it next time you're near the Jeep.
Old 12-27-2012, 08:33 PM
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Replaced the tps today and everything's back to normal. Thanks again


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