Legocar

I have a 94 sport ive recently put in a water pump have had to operating temp and back down 5-6 times coolant is full its been runnin a lot hotter then it did before the pump went out its wanting to sit on the 0 on then210 mark even go a littler past that. If I turn on the heat it goes down a little bit. It's way to hot to run heat...... I am not a fan of it running hot. What can I do to solve this. . Ideas suggestions?......

Thanks for y'all's help!

VTJeep

yes..
https://www.google.com/search?q=jeep...w=1920&bih=979

xjsnake

210 is a normal temp for an XJ

Legocar

It runs past 210 it sits of the 0 right before the white line before red. It' ran fine before pump

xjsnake

Ok that makes more sense. I didn't get that from your first post.

Chances are you have some air trapped in your cooling system. Search for how to burp the system and get the trapped air out.

Legocar

I have read things and they say on the 94 they "burp" them selfs...... I have got it too operating temp 5-6 times. And they say that's all it takes. Was thinking about getting new t stat and fill the system back up again.....any ideas on ways to burp?

xjsnake

They only self burp if they have a thermostat with a 'burp hole' in it which many aftermarket ones don't have.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...ient=firefox-a

Bustedback

You may have too much anti-freeze mixed with the water. Anti-freeze does not absorb heat as fast, or as well as water. 50/50 is what most people run, I like to run a 70/30 water to anti-freeze mix. Too much anti-freeze to water is almost as bad as not enough.

Legocar

I am also running the 50/50... How do you guys burp the system? I took radiator cap off turned heater on full blast and it just runs out as in the anti freeze trickles out the fill hole at the top. ....thinking about draining the radiator and putting fluid back in ? I've never delt with a system you have to drain snouts all new to me.........any ideas?

Legocar

It's an open system also. I see it doesn't need to be burped could it be possible it does need too?

djb383

Since u have cycled it (cold/hot, cold/hot) 5-6 times and if u have removed the rad cap (motor cold) and coolant in up in the neck of the rad, then its burped all it's going to burp. There's a dime size hole beside the t-stat that allows air to escape and fwiw, the jiggle valve in a OE stat does not vent/bleed air when the motor is running, only when the motor is off. Most aftermarket stats have a "V" notch (no jiggle valve) that vents any air whether the motor is running or not.

Has the weather gotten hotter since the water pump install? #1 component of the cooling system is the rad. What is it's condition?

Legocar

It has gotten hotter.radiator is fine it ran right at 210 before the pump that's what makes no sence to me at all. Gonna put a new t stat in Tom and see what that does...... ?

DJeXeCute

My red jeep runs at 220-240 all the time while I'm wheeling but it's one of 3 I own so i don't really care but I still drive it everyday no problem.

salad

Fix it and stop giving bad advice please. It's not supposed to be that hot. (or your temp sender is dead)

Bustedback

I have a theory on water temp gauge readings, not sure if it make any sence though. If the gauge is reading in the 160-180 it means the water is not absorbing as much heat as it should, the water is moving through the engine too fast. Sure the gauge makes it look like you're running cool, but you could actually be running hotter than what is on the gauge. If the gauge is in the 210-220 range, it means the water is absorbing more heat and carrying it to the radiator. The water is staying in the block longer and kind of soaking the heat in away from the cylinders and head. Just a theory I have.