Replacing spark plugs

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Jul 8, 2012 | 08:18 AM
  #1  
I need to replace half if my spark plugs, so I'm just gunna go ahead and do them all. But what's the proper way to remove them? And do I really need a feeler gauge and torque wrench? Thanks.
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Jul 8, 2012 | 08:19 AM
  #2  
Oh and I have an '01 XJ without cruise control if that matters.
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Jul 8, 2012 | 08:21 AM
  #3  
why only half? proper way,? spark plug socket, torque wrench,? never used one for spark plugs make it snug than another 1/2 to 3/4 turn
feeler gauge yes, there cheap enough, cant always count on the gap being correct out of the box
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Jul 8, 2012 | 08:28 AM
  #4  
Quote: why only half? proper way,? spark plug socket, torque wrench,? never used one for spark plugs make it snug than another 1/2 to 3/4 turn
Okay good cause i don't have one atm haha. I have the socket though. Only half because thats what the engine code said. #1, 2, and 3 were bad. But I'm just gunna do the thing.

But how do I properly get them out without breaking anything?
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Jul 8, 2012 | 08:32 AM
  #5  
Might be a coil problem. Odd to have 3 bad plugs, unless the last owner was really lazy. lol!
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Jul 8, 2012 | 08:32 AM
  #6  
No feeler gauges or torque wrench needed for a plug change. I'm gonna try to help from memory cause its been a while since I've actually done this to a newer 4.0 myself. First get the coil packs out of the way there should be like 4 13mm bolts holding it down, unplug it and set it out of the way, then remove the old plugs either with a 5/8 spark plug socket or any old 5/8 socket deep enough to fit over the plug will do in a pinch. Make sure the gap of the new spark plugs is correct using a spark plug gapper (can be got from any auto parts store, heck most of them probably have them sitting right on the counter by the registers). Start them into the holes by hand, you have to make sure they don't go in crooked or cross threaded otherwise you'll have a whole new headache to deal with. If you have a spark plug socket the plug should stay in the socket well enough to use that to start them, but you can also use a piece of small hose slid over the top end of the plug to start them. If the plugs have a little sealing washer they need to be tightened 1/2-3/4 turn past when they first bottom out to properly crush the sealing washer, if they don't have the little sealing washer then it's 1/4 turn past when they first bottom out. Toss the coil back on and fire it up, nothin special to it.
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Jul 8, 2012 | 10:10 AM
  #7  
I've never heard of it referred to as a feeler gauge but if you mean a tool to check the gap on the plug, it is 100% necessary to have one. Get them to .035
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Jul 8, 2012 | 10:16 AM
  #8  
Moved to OEM Tech.

Gap checkers are like $1 at any parts store.
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Jul 8, 2012 | 10:44 AM
  #9  
Quote: Okay good cause i don't have one atm haha. I have the socket though. Only half because thats what the engine code said. #1, 2, and 3 were bad. But I'm just gunna do the thing.

But how do I properly get them out without breaking anything?
How much you wanna bet it's not the spark plugs?
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Jul 8, 2012 | 11:25 AM
  #10  
Post the exact code so we can point you in the right direction. May be the half that was never changed....
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Jul 8, 2012 | 11:32 AM
  #11  
Full tune ups are always a good idea, especially if you do not know when the last one was done.

Either way, this does indeed smell fishy...its prolly not the plugs.
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Jul 8, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #12  
Quote: Post the exact code so we can point you in the right direction. May be the half that was never changed....
This. We really should have the exact codes. Not a description, as there are a lot of OBD codes.

And when you change plugs, ALWAYS change all of them. They are not that expensive. I like NGK copper plugs for the 00-01 distributorless ignition. Change them every 30k.
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Jul 8, 2012 | 12:05 PM
  #13  
Quote: No feeler gauges or torque wrench needed for a plug change. I'm gonna try to help from memory cause its been a while since I've actually done this to a newer 4.0 myself. First get the coil packs out of the way there should be like 4 13mm bolts holding it down, unplug it and set it out of the way, then remove the old plugs either with a 5/8 spark plug socket or any old 5/8 socket deep enough to fit over the plug will do in a pinch. Make sure the gap of the new spark plugs is correct using a spark plug gapper (can be got from any auto parts store, heck most of them probably have them sitting right on the counter by the registers). Start them into the holes by hand, you have to make sure they don't go in crooked or cross threaded otherwise you'll have a whole new headache to deal with. If you have a spark plug socket the plug should stay in the socket well enough to use that to start them, but you can also use a piece of small hose slid over the top end of the plug to start them. If the plugs have a little sealing washer they need to be tightened 1/2-3/4 turn past when they first bottom out to properly crush the sealing washer, if they don't have the little sealing washer then it's 1/4 turn past when they first bottom out. Toss the coil back on and fire it up, nothin special to it.
Exactly what I needed thanks.

And for all the other posts, yes it might be the coil, but it's $100 so I'm gunna change these first and see.

As for the code, a friend that works at Autozone with a lifted Cherokee helped me out. I'm gunna go ahead and trust him as he's seen the same codes on other cherokees. I don't remember the exact codes.
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Jul 8, 2012 | 12:06 PM
  #14  
Y'all recommend using dielectric grease and antiseize?
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Jul 8, 2012 | 08:38 PM
  #15  
What brand of plugs are you gonna get from autozone?
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