Replacing my antenna
#1
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Location: San Antonio
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 Cyl
Replacing my antenna
I have a 92 Cherokee Laredo and my antenna will not go down. I assume it is a power antenna and needs to be replaced. Best Buy quoted me 2 hours at $80 an hour to replace it. Does replacing it really take 2 hours? He said they had to remove the fender well...
Unfortunately I am not good with wrenches and will have to pay for it to be replaced but this just seems out of line
Any thoughts?
Unfortunately I am not good with wrenches and will have to pay for it to be replaced but this just seems out of line
Any thoughts?
#2
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
It takes less than 20 minutes to remove the fender. It uses mostly torx bolts, not sure of the size but I would guess T-30. Once you get the fender off the antenna actuator is fully exposed.
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
What has to be removed: Wheel/tire assy, inner fender liner (which probably has rusty bolts, studs, and nuts that will break off), RH plastic threshold plate, RH inner kick panel, part of the lower dash.
Then there are several connectors and wires that have to be unplugged. It is a tight squeeze in there where the motor and housing are located.
Removal of the whole fender is not necessary. $80/hr labor is not bad nowadays.
I find Best Buy service and prices to be reasonable. They seem to know what they are doing.
At least the antenna is stuck up and not down.
Then there are several connectors and wires that have to be unplugged. It is a tight squeeze in there where the motor and housing are located.
Removal of the whole fender is not necessary. $80/hr labor is not bad nowadays.
I find Best Buy service and prices to be reasonable. They seem to know what they are doing.
At least the antenna is stuck up and not down.
#6
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
What has to be removed: Wheel/tire assy, inner fender liner (which probably has rusty bolts, studs, and nuts that will break off), RH plastic threshold plate, RH inner kick panel, part of the lower dash.
Then there are several connectors and wires that have to be unplugged. It is a tight squeeze in there where the motor and housing are located.
Removal of the whole fender is not necessary. $80/hr labor is not bad nowadays.
I find Best Buy service and prices to be reasonable. They seem to know what they are doing.
At least the antenna is stuck up and not down.
Then there are several connectors and wires that have to be unplugged. It is a tight squeeze in there where the motor and housing are located.
Removal of the whole fender is not necessary. $80/hr labor is not bad nowadays.
I find Best Buy service and prices to be reasonable. They seem to know what they are doing.
At least the antenna is stuck up and not down.
I've never replaced mine, but I've had my fender off my 92 and it looks like you can get to everything from behind the fender.
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#9
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
The difference in my way and your way is that my way you have to remove the 6 or so nuts holding the innerliner to the flare.
Your way, you have to remove all the top fender bolts, the headlight bezel and headlight, I think the turn signal too, to get to the two hidden studs behind them. Also the one(s) in the door jamb, plus the one(s) underneath.
Then everything else I mentioned earlier still has to come off.
Now obviously, your Jeep is a special case. I believe that we can safely assume in this case that the OP's Jeep is stock, as the great majority of Cherokees are still stock and not cut. In my opinion you might want to consider this before advising someone to take off the fender, or at least reveal in your first posting that your Jeep is modified.
Also, using your way the owner still has to reverse the removal of the fender and also line everything back up on the body/hood/header panel/door gap.
Your way, you have to remove all the top fender bolts, the headlight bezel and headlight, I think the turn signal too, to get to the two hidden studs behind them. Also the one(s) in the door jamb, plus the one(s) underneath.
Then everything else I mentioned earlier still has to come off.
Now obviously, your Jeep is a special case. I believe that we can safely assume in this case that the OP's Jeep is stock, as the great majority of Cherokees are still stock and not cut. In my opinion you might want to consider this before advising someone to take off the fender, or at least reveal in your first posting that your Jeep is modified.
Also, using your way the owner still has to reverse the removal of the fender and also line everything back up on the body/hood/header panel/door gap.
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