Check out http://www.rockauto.com/. If you can wait a few days, you'll save a few bucks.

EDIT: I looked around on there, a full Spectra Premium assembly costs $94.

I need tthe vehicle for work just about everyday. All the auto places around here run 101.99 for the full pump assembly unit so I may just go that route, and new fuel filter and spark plugs and see how it goes.

Don't be surprised if you end up with a misfire after changing just the plugs and not the wires.

I changed the plugs with premium plugs about 2 months ago.

I mean iI changed the wires. Sorry for the confusion. I have not done the plugs yet. I will be buying some tomorrow.

NGKs...........I figured you typed plugs instead of wires in your post.

Are you recommending ngk plugs?

The wires I bought were some premium Bosch wires I believe like 7-8mm or something like that. I can't remember.

Where can I pick up the ngk plugs and do you know about how much they run a piece?

Napa carries NGKs and they're reasonably priced. Not some hyped up over-priced plugs.

Well I picked up plugs and a fuel filter. The cap and rotor will have to wait until Thursday when I get paid. I will be installing the stuff tomorrow morning and see how everything goes.


This may sound weird but when the tempature heats up my Jeep starts fine. Yesterday morning at 7am it would not start. Temps were about 75-80*. That afternoon at 2pm it fired the first crank. That night at 7pm it fired first crank when leaving work, temps were around 90+*.

This morning at 11 am it was around 90*+ and it started fine. This is completely opposite of the symptoms IV been having the past 3-4 days.

I get that during winter, weird. Do the tune up and report back buddy.

Yeah during winter when the lows were 50-60* it would just take slightly longer to start. Nothing like the symptoms I was having. I just thinks its weird that everything seems to be back to normal. Well tomorrow I will do the plugs and fuel filter and see where its at. Maybe it will steady my idle about a bit.

I know you've done alot of ground refreshing, right? Did you ever do the connector/relay refreshing?

Ever do this?

TESTING THE EGR VALVE FOR 87-90 4.0 ENGINE
Valve Opening Test
1) With engine at normal operating temperature and at idle,
rapidly open and close throttle. Open throttle sufficiently to obtain
at least 1500 RPM. Movement should be noticed in EGR diaphragm.
2) If diaphragm does not move, probable causes are: faulty
vacuum signal to EGR, defective EGR diaphragm or defective
backpressure sensor diaphragm (if equipped), or leaks in vacuum lines
or connections.
Valve Closing Test
1) With engine at normal operating temperature and at idle,
manually depress EGR valve diaphragm. RPM should immediately drop,
indicating that EGR valve is not leaking and had been properly cutting
off exhaust gas flow at idle.
2) If there is no change in RPM and engine is idling
properly, exhaust gases are not reaching combustion chamber. Check for
plugged passage between EGR valve and intake manifold.
3) If engine idles poorly and RPM is not greatly affected by
manually moving diaphragm up, EGR valve is not closing off exhaust gas
flow. Check for carbon between pintle, leaking EGR valve gasket or bad
EGR valve.
***************

On my 90 I have not done any other the ground refreshening or relay connector refreshening. IV done most of that on our 88 IV been working a lot in lately.

Which is the connector refreshening?

Ok I will be doing that as soon as I pick up some electrical contact cleaner. Do you suggest adding dieelectric greese in the connections?


Also here is the pictures of my spark plugs. Can you tell if anything is wrong like burning oil or coolant?

In the picture of 6 plugs they go from left to right - from firewall to front of engine.


Also all of the original 6 plugs were all gaped over .045-.055