Did you do the ICU/Coil refreshing yet?

Besides always listening to cruiser, your second relay back is your fuel pump relay. Granted, you seem fine there, but its too easy. You see, on a renix that also does all sorts or things, things an ASD relay would do with "those other Jeeps". I might just pull it and brush it off, check it's blades, the socket, no harm in swapping it with the AC or something. It does sound like it's passing power, but I believe ign power goes through there as well, it might as well be cleaned as well as coil contacts cruiser mentioned, if you have no spark.

Hurray on the CPS! You just saved $40-50, and a fun job.

I forget if I mentioned, a bunch of cruisers stuff is in the link in my signature

This has some stuff that could verify if it's bad.. I guess with a digital that "nearly zero", might be an ohm or more..

Oh, I'm sure you have it right, just..a bunch of diagrams in the books and manual's seem to be wrong. Viewed from the side, #1 is at 5:00. Then clockwise, 153624. (the screws point barely left of center of the front of the valve cover). I imagine it would pop if I used my book for that.

The yellow deal is on #1.VV

Almost wants to catch when you rotate the key back from "start"?

Don't overlook the possibility of a bad ignition switch. The fuel pump will run with the key in the "on" position, but if the "start" contacts are bad, there won't be any spark to get 'er going.
Note the starter itself operates off of a different set of contacts in the ign. switch and may still work even if the section feeding the ignition and fuel pump are bad.
You should have +12V at the ignition coil and fuel pump relay in both "on" and "start".

I did. No worky.

Well I'm at a bit of a loss. I might verify that there is defiantly no spark from the coil. I would try another wire there, just to be sure that's ruled out. Sometimes on something like that (a mower or chain-saw) , I'll just hold it with my hand...why not if there is NO spark. A warning though, once on that final "off" it might spark.

I've seen it suggestd a few times...you can remove your ECU, (right side if the steering column), and go over and gently crimp, tighten the connectors.

For 87 & 88 there is actually a bulletin, (and a wiring deal sold) , they had issues of the CPS signal not getting through the c-101 connector, (you don't have one), to the ECU. It is just a grommet and some wires, you actually drill a hole in the firewall and run the CPS wires right in. Other guys have canned the plug/connector there (by the CPS), and soldered it. You can also check right at the ECU for the CPS signal. (we don't have the C-101, but we DO have that big plug on the firewall)

Bad coil? Sure might be sweet it you could lay your hands on another. That coil procedure I posted, the wording is tough, but the idea isn't.

*the 12v (primary), should not show allot of resistance going through.

*Also that same circuit, (through that coil), should not be grounding at all. (here you would have one lead on Bat Negative)

*Then the secondary, (business end), should have some very slight connection, (some 1000's of ohms), to that same 12v circuit through the coil.

Oh, AND...sometimes when there is a problem in the morning, it's because something was chewed on during the night...mice ect...

He's not bsing you. I had my cts wires chewed on by a mouse. I chased that issue for almost a month.

Hey there CPT..do you happen to recall the resistance you were seeing from your CTS? (and IAT for that matter). Or..Idk if you "went there".

I know they were within factory spec for the temperature that they were at. Not sure about the numbers though. I don't have the jeep anymore as we traded it in for a Kia soul cough" wife" cough. Otherwise I'd pull the numbers for ya!

My CTS bottoms around 315, then cycles from there up to 380, then back, with the thermostat opening and closing. My temp is right at/atound 195* Spec is below 200 for boiling. Pretty clear I'm "out of spec", was just hoping someone else here might know theirs...I could spend the $30 and see though...It IS functioning, very responsive actually....

Spend $30 and put a new one in. You're testing it right at the CTS plug, correct?

yessir (with rain running in my ear)

Do you have a video of that?

I guess soon you will have coolant running in your ear.

Ha! Yea, just yesterday, and clear and sunny today..I admit, I had a tough time with that plug. I don't know how a mere mortal could even do it. Yea, here in post 13?, I found a "fat 1/16" nail would fit in the connector pin>https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/iat...stance-140073/

Like I mentioned, I watched it cycle, then rolled over and let the water run out...