CS Performance on Ebay sell them with a lifetime warranty and satisfaction guarantee. They make a point of saying in their listing that they don't sell the Chinese stuff and only deal with OEM. Ordered my 703's and they are going to replace them with 746's because the 703's made my engine run rich.

1. Glad you caught something. Hows the wiring going to the o2?
2. As far as I know, it should be fluctuating between lean and rich fairly rapidly.
3.I've had similar symptoms and did the same thing thinking it was the injectors. It wasn't as far as I can tell but I am planning on replacing the 746's I have just to be sure. Almost bought one of the Mopar O2's myself. I've had the NGK and the Bosch, both have been fine. I would start getting out the fine tooth comb on wiring and vacuum leaks in lieu of any big revelations. Do you have upgraded cables? One weird thing that's happened in my case is the alternator cable fried not only my fuse but the holder itself a few months back. Still haven't gotten to the bottom of it.

You didn't just get an REM, you got the clock!! Super nice!

 

cummins93 here on CF supplies rebuilt injectors.

 

MAN I am glad I was able to procure this REM. Nick is a cool dude, I was desperate. I reached out to him and simply asked if he had any ugly ones laying around and I’d pay twice the what he sells his suits at. He was kind enough to offer this one that the clock didn’t work. Hell, I got a watch I’m good, send it!

So far after getting a good change to tinker with it more only thing I’m seeing is the O2 seems to blink out once n a while. ( see video )

I fussed with it for about an hour idling in the garage. It would randomly die. Seems like the vacuum just drops to almost nothing then corrects itself again. Weird. The EGR shows to stay closed and it’s new and that’s the only thing I can think of that would cause a random big vac leak. At one point it idled great for a good 30 min or so, I decided to take it for a test drive. It almost immediately started with that bucking / RPM skipping crap y’all saw in the last video driving.

Question: Is the Vac supposed to drop to almost nothing under acceleration or load?? 🤔 It did on my little test ride. Parked I can rev it and vac increases accordingly. Doesn’t make sense. I went over everything vacuum a million times.

as far as the injectors. I’m going through my emails, I may have ordered form that guy you mentioned. Price seems a little higher than I paid though so maybe not. Can say the bucking rpm thing is just that though either.

To answer more of your questions.
-Yup upgraded cables through out.
- the O2 wiring tests/ ohms good both sides and I secured them away from the exhaust.
- I believe your probably correct in yet another wiring issue. I’m at a loss where to look now.


I’d will GLADLY video any of other functions of y’all would like to see. Let me know which ones if so.

and CRUISER! Thank you! I knew I remembered see that recommendation somewhere.

 

One other find MAYBE. As I was making videos and going through them. I caught a quick glimpse of what looked like the IAT, according to Nicks instructions a “ * “ to the left of the sensor indicates what would trip his “check engine” light feature. It never tripped the light and I was cycling through different sensors in the video and I happened to catch a glimpse of it after wards watching the video. I tested the IAT previously however, with the bolt meter and a heat gun and it fluctuates with temps. What the values are supposed to be I can recall but I want to say it was all okay other wise I would have replaced it. 🤷‍♂️


The quick glimpse


and another random video...


another though.. In regards to the bucking. Could the CPS cause this? Maybe a random short in the wiring?

oh and THANKS AGAIN for the help!!

 

 

3.9 vac? Ever clean the IAT?

 

I knew you would like the REM, I always like to know what is going on with my engine. When I get a chance I will compare your REM videos to what mine is doing to see if there is a difference. I have oil and a filter that is to be here today so hopefully I can look at it then when I change it. Thanks for keeping us updated. One thing I did see was your volts are lower (10 to 11) then mine, I have between 13 and 14. Then yours drops off (also the O2 volts drop at the same time) and then your engine sounds like it starts to act up.

 

yup, pulled it. It was clean and tested it, seemed to test okay. Reinstalled with a little tiny bit of sealant around the threads ANS tested for leaks.

 

Sorry got the volt mixed up with the vac, my vac is 16 at idle. Let me know if you need a picture or video of what my REM is showing. I have the base model so I always have the volts, RPMs, temp and O2 lean-rich displayed.

 

lol All good man, I don’t even know if them rem is helping at the moment. Been so covered up lately haven’t had a lot of time to screw with it. Had to go back to work 🤨 I ordered a new ICU and new wires. Both NEW 02’s do the same damn thing. Work, intermittently.

I replaced the coil pack with a new one and it ran worse. Thinking something around the area isn’t happy, About to pull the battery and start splitting wire looms around the coil ,relays and I assume are fuseable links

 

The O2 sensor volts do go up and down between 5 volts and 0, I think that is how it reads lean and rich mixture in the exhaust. Cruiser will have a better answer on how it works. Trying to help you not to spend extra money on parts that you may not need. Good luck.

 

Check for power at the orange wire at the O2 sensor.

 

So I’ve went over the O2 and wiring I believe pretty throughly. I do get 12v constant at the engine side plug. As I watch the REM on the O2, it seems, as y’all may have seen, to blink in and out but very methodically . It’s on line and bouncing as it should between 0 and 5 volts. Then, something happens and it goes to a steady voltage. ( not normal ) of like .6v. At that time, or close the vac drops to almost nothing and runs like crap. SO, I can assume it’s not an actual vac leak, it wouldn’t fix it’s self as such it’s reacting. I’m not driving or moving and as much as I’ve tested the O2 and associated wiring, that I’m at a loss as to why it blinks out other than I love been getting a batch of crap O2’s. I didn’t think the O2 itself would produce such crappy running however. **** mileage and running rich sure but, she’s missing something. The only area I’ve done little, is around the ignition coil and relays.

As I think I stated, just orders a new ICU and new plug wires, as I dive into that I want to split Looms in that area and really look at the wiring there and below/around the relays.

Grasping at straws here. Doesn’t help I finally got back to work AND starting a new business too.

Anyone wanna make some money? I’ll fly your rear ends down here! 😂

 

So yeah... stupid! Replaced the plug wires. All is beyond normal again and running like a champ. I say this after several long drives! Who’d a thunk 🙄


the wires were NEW!!! but, sat for years, guess that’ll do it

 

Where were those plug wires made?

If they went bad sitting around new, just think how they woulda lasted in use!!!!