Tighten them from the center out to the ends. When you're done, spray the area with some throttle body cleaner to verify there are no vacuum leaks.

 

Manifold bolts tightened down to spec. Still idling very high. It's our first freeze today and because of that she liked the 1700 rpm region. Still idles at 1000 on a cold start, and if you shut her down and turn her on she will idle around 1000 for about 5 seconds or when you hit the gas. I'm loosing my mind over this jeep lol.

 

try this remove the tube from the air cleaner box using some thing flat as to not get sucked into the throttle body cover the end off the tube see if idle changes.

 

do you have this info for testing sensors and suchhttp://www.eriejeeppeople.com/Jeep_t...ion_manual.pdf

 

Are you talking about the tube thats apart of the ccv?

 

no the tube that comes from the throttle body to the air cleaner box lid its a old trick to see if theres any vacuum leaks covering the hole will cut off air supply to moytor it should try to stall in theory

 

if it stalls this rules out vacuum leaks

 

I'm curious about the throttle body having been messed with in regard to the butterfly stop screw.

 

I will do the tube trick after work. I've noticed that after I rebuilt the injectors that my idle went up just a tad. I'm talking maybe 100 rpm. The butterfly from appearance looks closed when it's resting, but the tiniest gap can cause high idle issues. Logically, what causes a high idle when the engine is warm? Easier for the engine to move? Why would the idle after shut down and start up idle at 1000 for a few? Still maybe electrical? I'm going to take pics after work tonight. Everything from my grounds to the throttle body in hopes that someone can see something that I can't. You all have been so helpful! What a great forum!

 

Ok, I missed the exhaust bolt towards the back of the engine and it was loose. I'm still at 1500. Question. I went in sequence, but I only tightened. Should I go back and loosen all the bolts then tighten in sequence? Would that make a world of difference?

 

Spray with TB cleaner before going to all that trouble.

 

CPT, if you finally grab that can and do the 33 second vac. leak test, careful not to let the can touch anything like the battery post! My Dad, an OSHA safety inspector had a sad story about that.

You can disconnect and plug the vac. line to the egr and eliminate the possibility that when it warms up that opens then sticks. Then of course stick it back when you find the problem.

Cruiser, (I mean anyone!), my 89-90 has a high idle deal. Was my mom's and I always thought she was gassing it when she'd start it. (grit my teeth with those RPM's before oil pressure). Later as my DD I found it does it on it's own, revs up for a second. (sorry mom!). Is there some component or circuit that could be haywire bumping up CPT's idle?

 

Couldn't hurt to test the CTS I guess. Have you ever tested your sensor ground circuit per the beginning of my TPS instructions?

 

Ok, i have a Video and two photo's doing a ground test on the TPS. First here's the video of the jeep already warmed up. Notice how it'll idle down for a few seconds then go right back to 1500 almost like it's programmed to do so.

http://youtu.be/N25MF18G2BU

I took two ground photos, one with the key off and one with the key on. I'd assume that you're interested in the one with the key on.

Key off.



Key on

 

Key off probing the brown with white tracer wire coming out of the TPS 3 wire connector.

The flare up when starting is normal. But it should drop to about 850 RPM. I really think you should check the throttle stop screw in the throttle body in case someone messed with it in the past.