Renix high idle... Still
#31
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Sorry for the long delay! We've had a busy few days. I'll look into the EGR tonight. The manifold bolts should be tight. I had a shop two months ago replace my clutch. I assume they had to drop the exhaust at least. What's the best way to reach my bottom two bolts? I did get a new volt meter, that works great. Now it's a simple game of adding grounds. Question. Since it's difficult to sand the ground on the dipstick, can I relocate? Also, if I add a ground from the block to the firewall, should I add it from the block to the fuel rail or the firewall to the fuel rail?
Check your manifold bolts. They didn't remove them to put a clutch in.
Fold a piece of sandpaper up and go after the dipstick grounds. Then add a cable from there to the passenger side inner fender. There's an 8mm metric stud to attach to just a ways below your upper shock mount.
#32
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"Modrod Yeah, sounds lika a vacuum leak somewhere. If you get a spray bottle and squirt it around the different areas of the intake, throttle body ect. You will hear a momentary change in idle when you soak the trouble spot. Also listen for the vacuum leaks "hissing"."
Once I bent up part of my manifold heat shield, maybe there was a bolt. Then I suspended an extension down there with baling wire. Seem to remember it needed an odd length, maybe with a "super short" along with a long, and maybe a universal. THEN I put the head if the 3/8 driver down there and plugged it onto the rest of the mess. There's got to be a better way short of pulling everything apart........
Once I bent up part of my manifold heat shield, maybe there was a bolt. Then I suspended an extension down there with baling wire. Seem to remember it needed an odd length, maybe with a "super short" along with a long, and maybe a universal. THEN I put the head if the 3/8 driver down there and plugged it onto the rest of the mess. There's got to be a better way short of pulling everything apart........
#33
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Update! So this weekend I went to tackle the bottom manifold bolts. I start un bolting the heat shield, and by tapping an injector with my tool caused fuel to start leaking out. So, after replacing the o rings on my injector *and wow they were dirty* I also caused the O ring on my return line to leak. Needless to say I hold a new pressure regulator in my hands since my other one is OEM. I'm tempted to just bend the heat shield up to get to those bolts, but I'm now trigger shy to go anywhere near those injectors. Man where they difficult to get back into place. I hope they're in the engine as far as they need to be. The only thing that leaked when i started her back up was the return line.
#34
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Im by all means no Cherokee expert but sounds like you just need to back out the idle control stop bolt on the throttle body (TB). I dont know the technical term for it, but, if you pull off the TB off, there is a really small bolt that you can adjust that stops the idle control, adjusting the RPMs to what you like. I had an issue with my jeep wanting to dye when the clutch would be engaged. I screwed in the bolt taking my RPMs up to around 800 at an idle and now no more issues. A simple bolt may be your only issue. But that's just my 2 cents. If you want I can post pictures tonight when I get home.
#35
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Im by all means no Cherokee expert but sounds like you just need to back out the idle control stop bolt on the throttle body (TB). I dont know the technical term for it, but, if you pull off the TB off, there is a really small bolt that you can adjust that stops the idle control, adjusting the RPMs to what you like. I had an issue with my jeep wanting to dye when the clutch would be engaged. I screwed in the bolt taking my RPMs up to around 800 at an idle and now no more issues. A simple bolt may be your only issue. But that's just my 2 cents. If you want I can post pictures tonight when I get home.
That said, and adjusted fully closed, the base idle can be set with the torx headed screw under the thin plug on the driver side base of the TB. The plug can be knocked out by hitting it off center with a punch.
#37
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It could if some Bozo turned that screw in over where the throttle linkage hooks up.....
#38
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What I meant to say is, would that make my engine idle higher the hotter it got. Thank you again sir! You have been extremely helpful!
#39
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No. It's a mechanical, not electrically controlled adjustment. It's never supposed to be touched but maybe someone screwed with it.
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Got the new regulator in. Still high idle when hot but man am I glad it's not leaking fuel anymore. I go through withdrawals when I can't drive her. The wife's Intrepid just isn't enough! I still need to get the manifold bolts. Can I get to the bottom ones from the bottom of the jeep? I'm just scared to touch the injectors again. Someone said bending the heat shield back. I may try that. I still need to add more grounds to her.
#41
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Got the new regulator in. Still high idle when hot but man am I glad it's not leaking fuel anymore. I go through withdrawals when I can't drive her. The wife's Intrepid just isn't enough! I still need to get the manifold bolts. Can I get to the bottom ones from the bottom of the jeep? I'm just scared to touch the injectors again. Someone said bending the heat shield back. I may try that. I still need to add more grounds to her.
#43
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A tad? Is that more or less than a smidgeon?
#45
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
A tad? Is that more or less than a smidgeon?