Rebuild the 4.0 or swap it?
02-09-2012, 06:36 PM
#1
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 4.0L
Rebuild the 4.0 or swap it?
I got a 92 xj that just hit 160k miles, the engine has a pretty serious bottom end knock, the top end was just rebuild at 140k miles because of a heating issue when i first got it (got it as a bank repo so i dont expect it had the best life before) when i got it, it had a rear main seal leak but it was recently fixed about 4k miles ago, but i noticed its starting to leak again so im expecting it needs new rod and main bearings, im debating whether to rebuild it or just start looking for a new engine for it, any recommendations?
02-09-2012, 06:46 PM
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I usually try to find a salvage yard engine; swap it. Plug and play and you are back on the road.
If you can do the rebuild yourself, though, have at it. If you farm out the job, rebuilds start at about $1300 and go up from there. If you are going to go that route, I'd get at least two quotes, preferably three.
If you can do the rebuild yourself, though, have at it. If you farm out the job, rebuilds start at about $1300 and go up from there. If you are going to go that route, I'd get at least two quotes, preferably three.
02-09-2012, 07:17 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Last time I checked it was cheaper for me to just get a used one locally. They were around $400 for a 90K mile 97+ motor.
Master kit $400
Machine work head/block/clean $500
Oil pump, water pump, other necessary MISC $300
My time $0
About $1200 I suppose IF the crank and cam are OK.
Gettin' into Jasper Engines territory almost...
Just my .02
Master kit $400
Machine work head/block/clean $500
Oil pump, water pump, other necessary MISC $300
My time $0
About $1200 I suppose IF the crank and cam are OK.
Gettin' into Jasper Engines territory almost...
Just my .02
02-09-2012, 07:27 PM
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 4.0L
Master rebuilds come with a new cam and oil pump and the water pump was just replaced when the whole top end was redone 20k miles ago, i do know some who owns a machine shop so i can get a discount and would a 97+ engine work in mine? cuz i always thought the 97+ has more of a computer system
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02-09-2012, 07:42 PM
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Year: 1994 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd try to find an XJ in the local salvage yard that looks as if it was well maintained but was involved in some sort of side or rear impact accident which caused the insurance company to "total" it. Most likely the engone will still be good. Never got an engine this way but have gotten a couple of good tramsmissions like this.
02-09-2012, 07:49 PM
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4.0 is a 4.0 lol. But yes they will all swap, some more work than others!
Honestly 91-97 should drop right in, plug & play. 98+ will but they have coil packs..Obviously 87-90 is Renix.
If you can find a low mileage 91-95 that be best. They have the best flowing head, stamped 7120. 96+ got the coated pistons, but that coating wears off by 100k miles garunteed! 96+ also got the NVH upgrades, thicker webbing, and a block girdle. The block will be stamped NVH if its a true 96+ motor, so thats how you know
91-95 head number 7120
96-99 head number 6330 and NVH stamped on block.
99-01 head number 0331 and NVH stamped on block.
Honestly 91-97 should drop right in, plug & play. 98+ will but they have coil packs..Obviously 87-90 is Renix.
If you can find a low mileage 91-95 that be best. They have the best flowing head, stamped 7120. 96+ got the coated pistons, but that coating wears off by 100k miles garunteed! 96+ also got the NVH upgrades, thicker webbing, and a block girdle. The block will be stamped NVH if its a true 96+ motor, so thats how you know
91-95 head number 7120
96-99 head number 6330 and NVH stamped on block.
99-01 head number 0331 and NVH stamped on block.
02-09-2012, 07:52 PM
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I'd try to find an XJ in the local salvage yard that looks as if it was well maintained but was involved in some sort of side or rear impact accident which caused the insurance company to "total" it. Most likely the engone will still be good. Never got an engine this way but have gotten a couple of good tramsmissions like this.
This usually works for me as well..always for axles though.
If your getting a junkyard motor, get the warranty. And when pulling it, pull the intake and exhaust manifolds, and the valve cover BEFORE you pull the motor. That way you can somewhat see whats going on before you pull it.
Maybe drain the oil, see how it looks?
02-09-2012, 08:16 PM
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 4.0L
4.0 is a 4.0 lol. But yes they will all swap, some more work than others!
Honestly 91-97 should drop right in, plug & play. 98+ will but they have coil packs..Obviously 87-90 is Renix.
If you can find a low mileage 91-95 that be best. They have the best flowing head, stamped 7120. 96+ got the coated pistons, but that coating wears off by 100k miles garunteed! 96+ also got the NVH upgrades, thicker webbing, and a block girdle. The block will be stamped NVH if its a true 96+ motor, so thats how you know
91-95 head number 7120
96-99 head number 6330 and NVH stamped on block.
99-01 head number 0331 and NVH stamped on block.
Honestly 91-97 should drop right in, plug & play. 98+ will but they have coil packs..Obviously 87-90 is Renix.
If you can find a low mileage 91-95 that be best. They have the best flowing head, stamped 7120. 96+ got the coated pistons, but that coating wears off by 100k miles garunteed! 96+ also got the NVH upgrades, thicker webbing, and a block girdle. The block will be stamped NVH if its a true 96+ motor, so thats how you know
91-95 head number 7120
96-99 head number 6330 and NVH stamped on block.
99-01 head number 0331 and NVH stamped on block.
02-09-2012, 08:18 PM
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 4.0L
This usually works for me as well..always for axles though.
If your getting a junkyard motor, get the warranty. And when pulling it, pull the intake and exhaust manifolds, and the valve cover BEFORE you pull the motor. That way you can somewhat see whats going on before you pull it.
Maybe drain the oil, see how it looks?
If your getting a junkyard motor, get the warranty. And when pulling it, pull the intake and exhaust manifolds, and the valve cover BEFORE you pull the motor. That way you can somewhat see whats going on before you pull it.
Maybe drain the oil, see how it looks?
02-09-2012, 08:28 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
It might take a bit of looking, but found a local indy shop to replace the motor on a v6 95 grand am. 800 for the motor, 300 for lifetime warranty, covers the motor and labor. Been driving it for over 100K, hope the indy stays in good health. Where can you find that kind of warranty for 60 bucks a year? Guess he must trust his salvage yard!! 
Seems like he could find a 4.0 if I needed one. Wife overheated the motor, worth nothing without a motor, you make the call.
Seems like he could find a 4.0 if I needed one. Wife overheated the motor, worth nothing without a motor, you make the call.
Last edited by 1skrewsloose; 02-09-2012 at 08:30 PM.
02-09-2012, 08:31 PM
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02-09-2012, 08:43 PM
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 4.0L
If i rebuild it is it necessary to bore and re-hone the block? i was planning on getting the crank machined cuz of the knock and just getting thicker bearings