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Rebuild the 4.0 or swap it?

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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 08:43 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Lfwnnr
Ive looked around a every once in awhile for a junkyard engine, they arent to easy to find here in WI
I'm against swaps honestly. I'd pull your motor, take it apart, drop it at a machine shop and have it check out. Order a master rebuild kit after your machine shop tells you what you need. 0 deck the block, and maybe port match the head if you feel comfortable. This will raise the compression slightly, but nothing crazy, it'll also give you a tighter quench.
This is good for better mileage, better emissions, ect. Just stock rebuild it and throw a Comp 201 in there. No special springs or anything needed, the Comp201 will run on stock springs just fine but offer more power everywhere. Also order a dual roller timing set when your order the rebuild kit. Rpm machine will even include the Comp 201 and Comp lifters in your master rebuild kit for a few extra bucks so you don't have to order from a seperate place. Same for the timing set. This is the route I took, cost about 1100 bucks all said and done.
But I got the comp 201, comp lifters, cloye dual roller timing chain, added a main girdle off the newer jeeps, went .60 and I ported my head and got dodge magnum valves installed. Also did some work to the fuel system at the same time. 703's & a late model fuel pressure regulator. I also modded my oil pan like Dino Savva did to help with windage.
I'm very happy and honestly this motor will run better, produce less emissions, get better mileage, make more power & should be more reliable than a stock 4.0.

You have a rebuild head recently, so pulled the head, inspect to make sure its good. Let a machine shop look at the head to be 100%, may cost a few bucks but its better than rebuilding the motor twice. If it checks out, all you need to do is build the bottom end!
I'd go .30 over either way just to be safe, buy coated pistons, 0 deck it, and throw a Comp 201 and new Comp lifters in it...I bet your heads fine, bottom end may cost 600 bucks, but you'd have a new motor, not a used unknow motor!
Doing this will give give you a good strong motor, and if your serious I'll help you get a parts list together. The Comp 201 and new lifters is about 190..for the performance gains I'd say DO IT!

Last edited by whiteXj2; Feb 9, 2012 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 08:53 PM
  #17  
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From: Wisconsin
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 4.0L
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Originally Posted by whiteXj2
I'm against swaps honestly. I'd pull your motor, take it apart, drop it at a machine shop and have it check out. Order a master rebuild kit after your machine shop tells you what you need. 0 deck the block, and maybe port match the head if you feel comfortable. This will raise the compression slightly, but nothing crazy, it'll also give you a tighter quench.
This is good for better mileage, better emissions, ect. Just stock rebuild it and throw a Comp 201 in there. No special springs or anything needed, the Comp201 will run on stock springs just fine but offer more power everywhere. Also order a dual roller timing set when your order the rebuild kit. Rpm machine will even include the Comp 201 and Comp lifters in your master rebuild kit for a few extra bucks so you don't have to order from a seperate place. Same for the timing set. This is the route I took, cost about 1100 bucks all said and done.
But I got the comp 201, comp lifters, cloye dual roller timing chain, added a main girdle off the newer jeeps, went .60 and I ported my head and got dodge magnum valves installed. Also did some work to the fuel system at the same time. 703's & a late model fuel pressure regulator. I also modded my oil pan like Dino Savva did to help with windage.
I'm very happy and honestly this motor will run better, produce less emissions, get better mileage, make more power & should be more reliable than a stock 4.0.

You have a rebuild head recently, so pulled the head, inspect to make sure its good. Let a machine shop look at the head to be 100%, may cost a few bucks but its better than rebuilding the motor twice. If it checks out, all you need to do is build the bottom end!
I'd go .30 over either way just to be safe, buy coated pistons, 0 deck it, and throw a Comp 201 and new Comp lifters in it...I bet your heads fine, bottom end may cost 600 bucks, but you'd have a new motor, not a used unknow motor!
Doing this will give give you a good strong motor, and if your serious I'll help you get a parts list together. The Comp 201 and new lifters is about 190..for the performance gains I'd say DO IT!
The head was at a shop when it was a rebuilt the first time, i made sure i did it the right way cuz ive heard of some head problems with the 4.0, it was re-seated, planed, spec'd over, got all new springs, rockers, push rods, and valve guides
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 09:17 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Lfwnnr
The head was at a shop when it was a rebuilt the first time, i made sure i did it the right way cuz ive heard of some head problems with the 4.0, it was re-seated, planed, spec'd over, got all new springs, rockers, push rods, and valve guides

Sounds like a bottom end rebuild, with a performance cam and new lifters. And be done! If you get a new cam, you NEED new lifters, no ifs ands or buts about it! Comp 201 is the biggest you can safely go with stock valve springs, and it'll offer some more power over the entire RPM range.
Comp 68-201-4 is the part number.
I'd expect to pay about 600, maybe 800 pending what machine works cost. I would go .30 over no matter what, and get the bottom end spun balanced.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 05:15 PM
  #19  
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From: Wisconsin
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 4.0L
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Originally Posted by whiteXj2
Sounds like a bottom end rebuild, with a performance cam and new lifters. And be done! If you get a new cam, you NEED new lifters, no ifs ands or buts about it! Comp 201 is the biggest you can safely go with stock valve springs, and it'll offer some more power over the entire RPM range.
Comp 68-201-4 is the part number.
I'd expect to pay about 600, maybe 800 pending what machine works cost. I would go .30 over no matter what, and get the bottom end spun balanced.
thats what ill probably do then, thanks for your help and ill post up some pics of the build once i start it
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