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Rear Speakers don't work

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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 01:05 PM
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Default Rear Speakers don't work

My 99 4 door sound bar speakers don't work. Here's what I've done so far:

Voltmeter both sides read 0.04v, doesn't change with volume
New head unit and tested connectors before plugging in
Followed wires from speakers to passenger rear corner panel, tested that connector same volts. lost the trace in quarter panel.

its odd to me that both are out. I bought the xj this way so idk if it happened at once or separate. Would like to find the issue if its a loose connection or common failure spot; rather than run new wires. Any help would be appreciated

also correct me if I'm mistaken but I don't think its the speakers because of the voltage reading but maybe I'm wrong, I left my alligator clips at work so I haven't tested new speakers yet.
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 01:32 PM
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Did you trace the connection through the lift gate harness?
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cfaber
Did you trace the connection through the lift gate harness?
I had it going from the speakers over to passenger, down the passenger column into the quarter panel. it then runs next to what I assume is the washer fluid line (insulated rubber tube) towards the front. the washer fluid line comes out at the interior fuse panel but the speakers don't. I'm assuming it goes into the thick cables that go under the bench seat but I cannot find where those go (maybe back up the driver side and down the driver a column?).
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 08:23 PM
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Maybe it would be helpful to understand how you're actually testing?
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 10:01 PM
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Pull speakers -> turn on radio -> turn voltmeter to VDC -> Switch from auto to V (Prevents me from thinking its normal when its reading mV) -> attach leads to plug

same as above for if I find a connector (like in the quarter panel)

as for tracing I am pulling trim following by line of sight or feel. for example if I reach into the sound bar and follow the passenger speaker wire I can feel the wire go toward the back of the Jeep. I can feel it split into a T, toward the driver side is thinner than passenger so I'm assuming its the dome light and driver side rear wire heading towards the passenger. From the rear pillar I have line of sight to follow until it goes past the passenger rear seatbelt.
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 11:26 PM
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Did you verify the stereo is working right.

​​​​
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 04:22 AM
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Rear speaker wires run with the whole rear wire/washer tube bundle. If you remove the drivers side rear spare tire and plastic panel you will have full access to the speaker wires. My 88 splits there one set to the speakers in the hatch and a set to go to the overhead speakers. My rig is an 88 this is the wire colors in the rear I doubt they will be the same for you.Left + Green/White

Left – Black/Yellow

Right + White

Right- Black
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 09:50 AM
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So it’s just the speakers. Took one I had lying around and Jerry rigged it in. Worked fine 🫣🤪


I tested again with two other volt meters I had lying around and got around the same reading until a speaker was plugged in. Radio must have a moffset that waits for a load before applying power. Should have tested that first *facepalm*
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Old Jun 20, 2025 | 12:12 PM
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Both sound bar speakers being out with near-zero voltage at the head unit and rear connector suggests the issue is upstream before the signal splits. First, double-check the head unit settings to ensure fade/balance isn’t set to front-only, though the voltage reading makes this unlikely. Next, look for a factory amp some XJs had one behind the passenger kick panel. If yours does, it might be dead or poorly bypassed by the previous owner. Inspect the harness for cut or loose wires. Also, trace the wiring from the head unit back, especially along the driver’s side sill, for pinched, shorted, or damaged wires. A bad ground or broken connection in the main bundle could kill the signal to both speakers.

Since the voltage is consistently low at both ends, the speakers themselves are probably fine. Focus on the head unit’s output, factory amp (if equipped), and any visible wiring damage. If you can’t find a clear fault, testing with a known-good speaker or temporarily running new wires from the head unit to the sound bar can confirm whether the issue is in the factory wiring. Let me know if you spot anything happy to help narrow it down further.
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