Rear main seal stuck.
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 69
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From: Lancaster, PA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo 196,000 miles on it
Oil pan and rear main seal as far as i can tell have never been changed which led to one PITA removal of the pan. The top half of the rear main seal is stuck in the block and in trying to remove it by using a nail punch both sides have been mushed up into the hole. I definitely left scratches on the camshaft and on the block around the holes for the top part of the rear main seal.
What issues am i going to be running into now?
Oil pan and rear main seal as far as i can tell have never been changed which led to one PITA removal of the pan. The top half of the rear main seal is stuck in the block and in trying to remove it by using a nail punch both sides have been mushed up into the hole. I definitely left scratches on the camshaft and on the block around the holes for the top part of the rear main seal.
What issues am i going to be running into now?
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
have some one turn the crankshaft by the nut in the harmonic balancer while you push the seal out with small flat head screw driver so you pushing on more area ,and quit scraching the crank
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster, PA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
actually had a friend of mine try that, seal still wouldn't budge.
obviously i want to quit scratching the crank i was just wondering what problems i'm going to have now that i have scratched the crank
obviously i want to quit scratching the crank i was just wondering what problems i'm going to have now that i have scratched the crank
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 94
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From: Murrieta
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: four litre
It will ruin the seal, if it's in the middle it might not leak, make sure if there is any nicks to remove any high spots that could be sharp with a fine file, go lite though. Wipe downward to remove any debris. It's too late but always use a punch that's softer metal than crank like brass. Good luck hopefully the nicks are in the middle where the seal's lips don't rub.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster, PA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
thank you hookedonxjs appreciate the help, i'll be loosening up the camshaft the get the seal out and then file down my mistakes following up with rtv if needed for the lips
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 247
Likes: 2
From: Northern Illinois
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Just for future reference (not rubbing in your mistake), I ground down a 3/8" brass rod to fit closely in the slot (so the punch wouldn't just go into the seal). It took several good whacks but I was able to move it around enough to grab it with some lineman pliers and pull it the rest of the way out.
Brass, wood, plastic, anything but a steel punch. The crankshaft journals need to have a super fine finish because the rubber seal contacts the spinning crank. Any nicks or scratches where the seal contacts will quickly destroy the seal. Lets hope where you left scratches is an area the seal does not contact. If they are in the contact area there is nothing that will fix it except having the crank reground.
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You're supposed to use RTV on the lips of the caps. Just none on the CRANK(
) shaft.
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