Rear Main Seal Sealant?

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Sep 29, 2016 | 04:48 PM
  #16  
Quote: So after reading your post, I now have a different concern.
If it's that easy to scratch, I probably did so on the crank

Am I screwed now?
picture??? .. and no.. emery cloth to polish..scratches..
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Nov 21, 2016 | 07:32 PM
  #17  
Quote: picture??? .. and no.. emery cloth to polish..scratches..
Ok so now have time to look back into this
There couple of small surface marks, one I can feel with the fingernail, but only barely. What emery cloth should I get? Grit? Link to what I need please (Amazon/eBay).

Here are some pretty **** pics, best I could do with my phone and lighting.
The crank isnt rotated in any of the pics, the red circles are only in the pics where you can see the damage.

http://www.use.com/JiJcP

Also, is this the right sealant https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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Nov 22, 2016 | 03:16 PM
  #18  
What they don't want you to do is end up with sealant on the boss surfaces that get torqued together, thereby preventing the bearings from achieving the proper oil clearances.
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Dec 7, 2016 | 05:21 PM
  #19  
Quote: What they don't want you to do is end up with sealant on the boss surfaces that get torqued together, thereby preventing the bearings from achieving the proper oil clearances.
Then why on earth does it tell me to put it between block and cap as well as not to place on the seal in direct disagreement of all how to's?

Again, more concerned about the scratches now
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Dec 9, 2016 | 04:56 AM
  #20  
Quote: Then why on earth does it tell me to put it between block and cap as well as not to place on the seal in direct disagreement of all how to's?

Again, more concerned about the scratches now
Yeah, well, I admit I don't know why they say that and it concerns me. All I would say is anything that would interfere with the two boss surfaces would seemingly prevent the two from being tightened together, and you end up with excessive bearing clearance after torquing the bearing cap.
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Dec 9, 2016 | 01:08 PM
  #21  
Agreed with grand there, you don't want anything there keeping those from touching. As a misguided young kid I once put STP under the bearing inserts.

Boy was dad scratching his head as we pulled that rig down the road with the rear wheels skidding, locked solid as the engine wouldn't turn a bit, even dragged in 4th gear! Relatively easy fix though.
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Dec 9, 2016 | 02:40 PM
  #22  
Quote: Agreed with grand there, you don't want anything there keeping those from touching. As a misguided young kid I once put STP under the bearing inserts.

Boy was dad scratching his head as we pulled that rig down the road with the rear wheels skidding, locked solid as the engine wouldn't turn a bit, even dragged in 4th gear! Relatively easy fix though.
Oh, my. What was the 'relatively' easy fix?
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Dec 18, 2016 | 08:24 PM
  #23  
Whoops! Lost your thread. I just needed to take it apart, clean the STP out from between the backs of the inserts and all, bolt it back up.

I think it was a Chevy Vega, with the third version, "Cosworth" engine. The third version had steel sleeves in the aluminum block, WITH added cooling passages between cyl's 1-&-2, and 3-&-4. After two fails, (aluminum cyls impregnated with Teflon?), then sleeved cyls, a mistake in the cooling which let two spots get too hot..........too late! Death for a pretty neat design due to a bad reputation. This one had 206K on it when my girlfriend baked it with a blown heater hose. " I was just a mile from home when the light came on" Climbing a mile and 500 feet of gravel road at 20 mph or so cooked it. (Vega design DOES require oil pressure to run the fuel pump) RRRRR. But the nutty temp didn't stop her.
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