My turn! (no it's not the O rings in the oil filter adapter). I'd hazard a guess the shop the unfortunate PO of this new to me 90 used, munched up the RM, when the O rings needed changed. Everything on this Jeep was done wrong. It came with receipts from Sealer: Lethia Motors in CA.,not sure what all they did. That story goes on and on. I really do feel sorry for the poor guy, he had no clew.

I have a nice looking one Piece Fel-Pro OS 34308R pan gasket, and a RM seal Fel-Pro BS 40612. Both from Napa with their logo on the boxes.

The instructions make common sense. Dab's of silicone at the cracks where the timing cover mates to the block, and a couple more, also only on-top where the rear main bearing cap meets the block. I'm pretty sure the blue is slower setting than the black, so I'll go with that. Just now thinking I'll put it on the block side so as to be sure its in the right place and doesn't get mucked while the pan is being placed. (Duh). A warning, I've seen the black set up really fast on a hot day, bad, bad, that.

I made a "shoe horn" from a drinking straw to help protect the lip on install. I plan to blast some Dawn soap in there over the crank with compressed air prior to install. Also I hear hear those nifty things to hold the gasket on the pan while installing might not fit while installing. More later.

I've gathered for my 90 I might want to undo the top shock mounts to lower the axle, but not to let it go too low as the anti-sway bar or something might be an issue. More on that soon! Now I think I need to go to the Market for a 1/2 rack, (only to warm up the oil for draining)

 

very cool cant wait to see how it goes

 

Thanks Jacoubus. Well, it seems the PO's shop glued the pan on with RTV. Driven on the side with a 2X4, or pried it doesn't show a hint of budging. I'm going to see tomorrow (Mon), if my JY guy has a replacement pan before I move on with removing, (destroying) this one. Crappy photo...it doesn't seem to have a gasket.

 

See if you can drive a putty knife in between the block and pan. That will start breaking the seal. Just make sure the putty knife is flat to the block so it doesn't cut into the pan.

 

Thanks Dave. Wire wheeled, sharpened, and even oiled, the knife wouldn't go. I had been contemplating making a tool, but your suggestion got me goen on "driven" as opposed to "drawn".

It actually DID "go" though. Not by hand or small ball-peen, but with a pry bar, prying on the end of the putty knife, just in some. Got the Stanly wonder bar in with a 2 Lb single jack, followed with screwdrivers. There was a POP! And the left side came free! More got the right.

Shock mounts undone, but just a hair of clearance from the starter stopped dropping the pan down. Get this, his shop mounted the starter with only one bolt! I've had it well over a year, guess they know one bolt is enough for the check to clear and get it out the door. Shops....Mr T said "I pity the fool". This could be your mother or daughter...Those bastards.

Then here are pics of the upper shock mount bolts. You blessed with Bendix 9 anti lock breaks will like the one on the left.

Now with everything ready to remove the pan, it seems the couple inches I dropped the axle is just a start. Again the last photo is crummy, but you can see the rear of the pan is a long waise from clearing the bell housing, or the exhaust. I seem to be missing some 4x6 blocks....

It's really unfortunate that they messed all this up instead of just changing the oil filter adapter O rings. I hope they didn't muck the crank while they were messing everything else up.

 

Boy, what fun! Axle hanging free with shocks undone, and the pan won't fit out. I'm sure 8 ton is over kill, but a pair of 8 ton bottle jacks between the axle and the frame gave me the 1-1/2 inches or so I needed. Came right out. All I un-did was the shocks.

Next time I might look at just leaving the wheels on the ground and only jacking up the body from the axle.

This gasket stuff I need to scrape off is rock hard. They may have used Permatex #3...Idk. (called aviation shellac maybe?).

 

It is completely counterintuitive, but you actually need to raise the axle to move it forward. Once you push the axle up, it will also move forward and give you room to get the pan out.
I used dental floss to tie the new gasket in place to the pan whileI lifted it back in place. I also pushed the axle up/forward to get the pan back in. For the oil pump, I got the pan up over the axle and then slid the oil pump in and bolted it in. I was replacing the oil pump and packed it with vaseline prior to install. Had instant oil pressure on first start.

 

I did look at that relationship and wonder. Also had heard having it too low could be a problem, thought something to do with steering though. Much thanks for your post...yea, once the "sump" cleared the axle it came right out. If I'm still alive and have the opportunity/time/energy, I may test that..but realistically likely not as I have it now so I know it will go back. I'm not touching the oil pump, no need it seems. "I got the pan up over the axle and then slid the oil pump in and bolted it" Yea, a book mentions that process. Did you need to unbolt the pump to get your pan out?

I'm trying to be through here as I may make my first real write-up from this.

The old sealant is rock hard. Putty knife was a joke. Kemtool will eat almost anything given time, but evaporates fast. I tried soaking a strip of rag laid on it, (which has worked on other things)....in a few minutes that didn't seem to help much. So went to the wire wheel on the bench grinder. Not pointless, but not very effective. Awkward taking an oil pan to a bench grinder. My woodworking bench has a 14" vice. That and a 2 by screwed down let me get after it with a belt sander with a fresh 80, (or 60?) grit aluminum oxide belt. That worked! Being it's flat it showed what I bent pounding a pry bar in there as well. Golly, what fun, and I still get to do the block surface. Just now thinking, I have some paint remover which is a gel. Worth a shot for the block.

Funny, I just noticed in my photo there, two bottles of #3 on the bench, near the Rectum Seal. Nobody needs that #3, except maybe NASA for heat shield install. (if they run out of Banana Slug slime.

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hyde-5-in...2977/100031311, I used one of these to clean the RTV off the engine when I replaced the valve cover gasket. Much more rigid than regular putty knife.

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-3-...5-03/205472724, these with a scraper blade will remove things really well too. Blades are different in width so it could be easier to work along the edges of the transmission.

 

Have you tried Acetone? It'll remove paint!

 

DF,

The gel paint remover will do it, but it is hazardous stuff, so wear long, thick gloves, face shield/eye protection (since you will be on your back applying it to the block), and a chemical breathing mask (though it is outdoors which is better). The longer the gel gets to stay wet the longer it works, so you want to apply it in the cool parts of the day so it doesn't dry up too fast.

With the age of these Jeeps, half the battle is getting the old parts off first and then prepping for the new parts to fit right and clean. Great job so far.

Nice thread. Thanks for posting with pictures.

Good luck.

 

My thanks to you all above....Acetone may well be an ingredient, borrowed what could be a great scraper, (in foreground of photo), and...my dad was an OSHA inspector back when they made more sense, (and had sharper teeth as well). This Klean-Strip KS3 premium stripper is no joke. This can is over 5 years old, it seems to have a long shelf life. I tried a little on the remaining spots on the pan this AM. Before I left they had dissolved, so I hit the block before leaving. Most of the block side came with a putty knife just now, like, a "normal" job. I just hit the spots maybe I missed, back by the RM and another section. Next pic should be of clean stuff.

It seems to have been a fiber gasket, dark bluish grey, pickled on both sides with #3 Permatex. I doubt that is factory...Idk though. Thankfully they only did the flats, and not the ends.

Allot of solvents don't seem to bother me much unless they are under my watch band or something. This stuff can burn you right away, Caution!

 

I take these to the machine shop and they wash them for $6 ready next day.

 

Saddened that so much fun might end tonight or tomorrow. The drips from that stripper seem concentrated, instant sting like a bug bite. ( forehead, in the eye might be real trouble). I got the block surface pretty well. I'll probably give it a final wipe with a clean rag full of Quick start or something before install.

The pan. Besides a little torqued at then end, there are dents. Plan is to "persuade" out the dents, and leave those bolts till last to pull up the business. Hope is it's not so serious as to squish that nice looking gasket to splitting or something. My bet is it's going to be OK.