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Rear Main Seal

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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:12 PM
  #1  
2KXJJEEP's Avatar
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Year: 2000
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Default Rear Main Seal

i have a 2000 sport with the 4.0 and aw4 trans and im bout to be changing my rear main seal and i was wondering 2 things 1. is it a 2 piece seal 2. how hard it is to do
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:50 PM
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From: vanburen
Year: 1995 &2000
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Yes and yes its a pita! Unless your xj is lifted then its not to bad
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:03 AM
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I don't think it's that bad. Disconnect the trac bar, drag link and shocks if there not long enough, starter and inspection cover for trans. Sway bar link if you really need to. As long as you got basic hand tools and a good jack and tall Stands. Like he said bigger lift a lot easier but more of a reach.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:05 AM
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Use this write up as a guide.

http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm

It's definitely a lengthy process but it's not hard.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 05:40 AM
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thanks,
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 05:52 AM
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Do this if you haven't already. Could save yourself a ton of headaches.

 
I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.
Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Revised 9-15-2012
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 08:37 AM
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From: cd'a idaho
Year: 89
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Engine: 4.0
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first off try replacing the valve cover gasket ONLY with the felpro 1 piece then if you still have leaking go for the RMS and pan.


((**** on a rock and you to can be a plumber))
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusti's91xj
first off try replacing the valve cover gasket ONLY with the felpro 1 piece then if you still have leaking go for the RMS and pan.


((**** on a rock and you to can be a plumber))
You must be a plumber. LOL.

Why not DIAGNOSE the leak instead of just guessing?
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 03:38 PM
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From: SW KY
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Please replace the oil pump and pick up screen while you have the pan off. It's just smart, cheap insurance. And use a gasket between the pump and the block.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 06:04 PM
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im pretty sure its the RMS bc i put a new head on last oct so i had to put all new gaskets on the top end so the took care of the VCG and i also put a new high volume oil pump and new pick up screen used fel-pro gasket on everything... but ill give it another once over again
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 2KXJJEEP
im pretty sure its the RMS bc i put a new head on last oct so i had to put all new gaskets on the top end so the took care of the VCG and i also put a new high volume oil pump and new pick up screen used fel-pro gasket on everything... but ill give it another once over again
Good idea. could be the oil filter adapter seals.........
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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Subing.

GOD i hope and pray my leak is my vcg...lol. Sounds like a spring time job. I will be diving into the oil leak search soon myself.

I agree with CRUISER54. I would rather trouble shoot then play parts changer.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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I just finished a rebuild on mine. Every gasket that I installed got coated with fel pro high tack gasket adhesive (except the head gasket). I love that stuff. I've got about a thousand miles on it now and havent seen a drip yet. I also threw away the oil filter adapter and put the oil filter directly to the block. I will admit that it's a whole lot easier to do with the engine on an engine stand...
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 08:47 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by OEJ
Subing.

GOD i hope and pray my leak is my vcg...lol. Sounds like a spring time job. I will be diving into the oil leak search soon myself.

I agree with CRUISER54. I would rather trouble shoot then play parts changer.
Yep. Two decent eyes and a dim flashlight and you're a diagnostic expert.
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