Ok, I searched for this, but haven't found my particular problem. 1997 Cherokee Sport 4.0 I6. This is not the issue with the handle having to be pushed in to open. So...I can't get my rear hatch unlocked. The solenoid is non-operational. With the key, I can get it to lock, but not unlock. I put the key in, and it will turn in the lock position only. Try to turn it to unlock, no go. It's as if the tumblers are operating one way only. So, faulty tumbler I think. So my dilemma is this: I need to get the hatch open to fix or replace. Now, I haven't crawled back there yet to see where all the screws are, but have had it off before to fix it for the "push in the hatch problem" previously. (the rear hatch has always had issues since I bought it, but was able to fix it once before to get it working with the key). My question is, do I have access to all the screws I need to get to to pop the panel off? I can't remember. I am going to try to have a key cut this AM to see if that works first, but want to have a backup plan if it doesn't work. Thanks in advance.

 

You probably have a lock rod that fell off inside. I don't have a '97, but most panels are held on by push clips, with minimal screws.

Crawl back there and do some experimenting.

I don't think a new key will help.

 

I know a new key is a long shot, but need a spare anyhow, so it doesn't hurt to try it before I start doing yoga to get in the back of my rig, LOL. This is when being lifted, older, and larger (LOL) sucks. LMAO

EDIT: I don't think it's a lock rod, as the tumbler won't even turn with the key. I would think that it would still turn with a missing or broken rod. Guess I just need to get in there and figure it out. Need to get this sorted as it is doors off season, and have to haul tools around for school, it's easier to put them in the rear hatch rather than the back seat, and because I have built a cover for the back, I feel better about having my tools locked up and out of sight while in lecture.

 

I had a similar problem with my 98. I don't know if it will help with yours. But I soaked the cylinder several times with PB Blaster and just kept working the key until it finally turned. Then once I got it opened I removed it and checked it out and there was a bunch of crud in it. So I kept spraying it down until all of the crud was gone and I haven't had a problem with it since. It's worth a try.

 

Done the PB Blaster from the outside, and hasn't helped. When I had it out before to fix my other issue, I cleaned and lubed the entire assembly. That was a while ago, and I will be doing it again once it's open and out. There was quite a bit of crud in there, so it won't hurt to do it again once it is out. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Can you see the nuts holding the lock striker in place from underneath? If so, loosen & remove them, then pop it open. I know, now all the thieves, will be busting into Cherokees.
:')

 

I will look at that once I get there today, have some other things to take care of before I dive into this. From what I've read online, 97+ with the plastic latch handles this isn't an option, but I guess I won't know until I dive in deeper. Will definitely check this though, thanks.

 

Also, once I get in there I'll try to remember to take pics and document everything, so I can post my results if successful, to help anyone else out in the future with the same problem.

 

Isn't there some magic love-tap you can do just above the handle, and/or give it a kick from the inside?

 

LOL....you're funny

 

Do a search on "hatch", gate won't get it done. Many threads with photos. You'll need to pull the plastic inner panel away below the window to release the latch. Once open then fix the mechanism. Lubing is VERY important, been there . . . done that.

 

Searched with hatch and gate, watched a few vids, but everyone of them were able to get the hatch open to access the panel. Haven't come acroos one with the door shut and the panel in place yet, but then again I didn't spend hours looking for it either. Just going to get in there and get it done once my other domestic duties are done today. Thanks for all the help guys, I'll post up later with results. Off to do some yardwork for my Nana.

 

As I said, you'll need to pry the plastic panel away to open the hatch. Then reach in a pull the rod, see here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rea...97-01-a-31679/

 

OK, so solved my rear hatch not unlocking problem. So, here's what I started with:


Got my needed tools, didn't grab a pic of the cordless drill with phillips bit, sorry, LOL





So, it was suggested I check underneath where the striker is to see if I could access the bolts, to remove them and get the hatch open.


So, I'm in luck, right? WRONG. Took them out, and while I was able to move it, couldn't get it open as the bolts were too long. Here's what they looked like at the maxed out position:


So, I crawled in the back and pulled the middle section of the panel out next:

Just reached in and pulled the latch lever.

Success!


So then I got the interior panel off, and poked my noggin around inside, pulled the metal clip on the latch lever, and removed the solenoid rod...



Removed the 10mm nut holding it in place and removed:


So here's the culprit:


...and here is where the issue was. That little hooked portion I'm pointing to was bent slightly out of whack...


After bending it back in place, I cleaned, lubed, reinstalled, put the clips back on, replaced the interior trim, verified operation, YAY! Key locks and unlocks with zero issues now. Then took it on a test drive with a friend:



Hope this helps anyone with the same issue!

 

GOOD JOB