chrispack63

well i had some grinding noise coming from my rear end. pulled the rotors off, the drums and pads and hardware were shot. so off to the parts store i go. so now for the part where i feel stupid, got everything off and attempted to "assemble" the rear pads which was a pain in the ***. got one pretty much all done and went to the other side only to realize that the PO had cut the main rubber brake line going to the rear axle. I have no idea why this was done and frankly never even noticed. so i'm looking for suggestions on what to do next... i already purchased all the hardware for the brakes and frankly the drums were a pain in the butt. just trying to see how involved this project will be and what the reason could be that he cut that line... maybe just so he didnt have to deal with it? it's my dd so i gotta figure it out soon.

67 GMC

So what's attached to your left and right wheel cylinders? Do you have the steel lines from the junction where the hydraulic hose connects to the junction block on the axle tube? Maybe a picture would help. Brakes aren't difficult. Search youtube for a video or two. Parts aren't expensive but measure the width of the shoes that are on there and make sure you get the right shoes and hardware kit for your setup.

wjnfirearms

For as basically simple as they really are, drum brakes are intimidating for the uninitiated.

There are two listings for brake shoes for later model XJs, 9" and 10" shoes. Most use the 9". You'll find the 10" mainly on police package models. The easiest way to make absolutely sure is to measure the inside diameter of the drums before you buy. The hardware kits are the same as are the wheel cylinders.

You will need the tool for removing/replacing the circular retainers for the pins that hold the shoes in place. You can use pliers, but it makes the procedure more difficult and the proper tool is not expensive.

One way too common issue that does occur with some aftermarket shoes is that the steel backing plate is produced out of spec. Usually this means it was made longer than the OEM specs call for and then your drum won't fit back on. There are two ways to deal with this. First, though, compare the new shoes to the ones coming off to make sure that they are sized correctly. If not, either return them and buy elsewhere or use a bench grinder to trim the excess metal off to fit. I've had to deal with this twice. Once, for a set of Carquest shoes I had stashed when I thought the wife's XJ needed them and didn't and eventually used them on mine just to find that they were too big. Next, recently when my son and I tried to help someone who desperately needed a set of shoes on his GF's Saturn and found them out of spec when we installed them. Bench grinder time both times.

Watch the springs as they can hurt you if you aren't careful. Also make sure the adjuster cable that goes from the lug on top of the wheel cylinder to the star wheel clip isn't frayed or broken. This does occur commonly with time and age.

Just take your time and do them one at a time especially removal of the old parts. This way, you can use the other side as a "picture" if you forget where something goes or how it goes back on. It will just be a mirror image. Also make sure to have a few cans of brake parts spray at your disposal. You'll need to clean everything down to do it right and to spray the shoes right before you put the drums on as you will smudge them inevitably. The drums will have to be cleaned inside thoroughly before installation as they all have a coating that keeps them from rusting while in inventory and this stuff must be removed.

As to the brake line issue, there is a rubber breather line off of the brake line junction block on the axle, but no rubber lines to the rear brakes themselves. I guess I need more info on this one as I don't really see a big problem here. The emergency brake cables do have a covering on them which sometimes gets damaged and I can see where someone might have removed this covering.

weebur

I sounds like the vent for the differential, but a photo would help. Your correctly assembled rear brakes should look like this (borrowed from somewhere, hope the OP of the photo doesn't mind). Also, I find it easier to install the cable by using a small c-clamp to hold the semi-circular cable stay in place while pulling the cable to its place.

chrispack63

Hey guts thanks for the response. Its deff. The brake line that runs to the steel lines on the axel that's torn and plugged. I've got a steel line to replace it and all the right parts (new drums, hardware pads} we almost had it together before we noticed the line. It was a royal pina and now I've got nothing to go by as far as a reference. So I'm looking for as much info as to the steps to install them again and how to replace the broken line and bleed and adjust the brakes

67 GMC

Good pictures.

I still think the rubber hose the OP is referring to is the hydraulic brake line from the hard lines to the axle tube. Then the wheel cylinders are connected by hard lines to the junction block mounted on the tube. The rubber vent hose on the axle tube wouldn't affect the brakes.

67 GMC

You need to have a flex line from the hard lines on the frame rails to the axle. Are you saying you bought a stainless flex line or are your using steel brake line? You need a proper flexible line as your axles goes up and down and would quickly weaken a rigid piece of steel brake line. Post a picture of what you're doing and what's missing if possible.

chrispack63

I have the extended steel braided line for it. I took a pic but I can't get it to upload from my phone. Its deff. The brake line and not the breather tube that's ripped and plugged tho

RenegadeT

thanks for this tip, great idea for a job that requires 5 hands but only room for one.

chrispack63

hey guys thanks for the reply's and help. sorry it took me a while to get back. the brake line that's torn is the rubber flex line. I've got a stainless braided one to replace it. any idea of how it mounts onto the axle? going to dive into the project after work tomorrow finally (had everything soaking up pb blaster for a week now). working 70 hours a week leaves about no time for wrenching. also if i have time trimming my front fenders up. anyone more tips of diagrams would be appreciated!

67 GMC

The rubber line has a hex head screw that goes into the axle tube.