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Rear drivers side door won't open, issue with outside button

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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 11:41 PM
  #31  
Erik Hoeffner's Avatar
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From: Parker Colorado
Year: 1991
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Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
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Originally Posted by Devin706
the button mechanism sounds and looks like what mine did. one side of it hooks in and then the other side screws in. the screw in mine stripped out allowing it to get all sideways an junk. i pulled door panel, unjammed the button. cleaned and greased everything, re installed it with a slightly larger screw that created its own threads (its plastic it screws into)
Yeah, well that is what makes it even more dumb, I thought thats what it might be, so I took it apart and had a hell of a hassle getting it back on, (almost lost the little plastic piece and spring) a loose rattly sound went away which was nice, but didn't help the button...
Its as if the mechanism is "delayed" and starts to respond to the button being pushed once its halfway down; where the opposite door the mechanism moves right with the button.
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 12:24 AM
  #32  
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From: Columbus GA
Year: 1999
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oohh. hmmm. could be the bent rods causing it not to engage (open) the latch untill the button is so far in. as if it has slack in it. idk what to tell ya bud mine went back to normal after i fixed it. good luck though man
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 03:37 PM
  #33  
Erik Hoeffner's Avatar
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From: Parker Colorado
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Originally Posted by Devin706
oohh. hmmm. could be the bent rods causing it not to engage (open) the latch untill the button is so far in. as if it has slack in it. idk what to tell ya bud mine went back to normal after i fixed it. good luck though man
Yeah, thanks for the idea fer sure though. I'll try to look at the rods, though I don't know how they look normally comapred to bent; I would have to find a picture to compare or something.
Otherwise I will see if anyone else on here can post a thought on it...
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #34  
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From: Parker Colorado
Year: 1991
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Originally Posted by 4x4van
Hi Erik, I just fixed this problem on mine. Same door too! The adjustment won't work because parts are bent.
I tried to not only fix it but find the root cause too.
I believe it is from the lube drying up on the latch and too much pressure having to be applied to get the door open.
This bends parts of the mechanism beyond what the little Allen key adjustment can accommodate.

Quick answer is to pull the door inner skin, remove the latch, free it up and lube it, remove the outer latch hinge plate and straighten all bent parts.
Put it all back together and set up the adjustment with the Allan key bolt in the halfmoon slot below the latch.

My job was complicated by the previous owner switching the child lock over (thinking it was the problem) and jamming the door from both sides.
I actually slid a screwdriver into the corner of the door to slide the child lock, if you look at the other side you will figure where and how far it has to go in.
It would be easier to just pull the door skin because you will likely have to anyway.
I pulled the inner door skin using a bent prybar to pull close to the plastic tabs. Then I pulled back the plastic sheet.
4 rods, one is for the power doorlock motor, one the manual lock and one each for the inside and outside latches.
Open the door and disconnect the rods at the latch if you can.

Unbolt the 3 torks bolts on the end of the door and pull the latch out.
Now remove the push pin guide and hinge plate for the outer latch button (Philips screw), lube and straighten all bent parts on both these assemblies.

Put it all back together, hook up the rods and make sure everything is moving free. Set up the adjustment with the Allan key bolt in the halfmoon slot below the latch.

Hope this helps!
...Not sure how I missed your reply over the other, but thanks for the through write up on it. Seems like a bit of work, and I will be busy for most of the week, but I will get to it ASAP and let you know the results. I am use to removing the door panels, so not to worried about having problems going about that, probably done it 3 times to the rears and 6 times to the fronts, I also don't have power locks so I am guessing I won't have to deal with that rod.
Just curious, how do I tell a 'straight' rod from a 'bent' rod...or is it just pretty obvious where it would be bent?
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 03:50 PM
  #35  
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From: Burbs of detroit
Year: 1997
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any one have a picture of what it supposed to look like when hooked up correctly? Referring to the rear door

Thanks
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 07:34 PM
  #36  
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From: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, Canada
Year: 1988 & 1990
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Engine: Inline 6
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First pic is with everything hooked up, second pic is from the back side with the lock mech removed. The short rod in the second pic hooks into the white clip that is circled in the first pic
Attached Thumbnails Rear drivers side door won't open, issue with outside button-image-1352635338.jpg   Rear drivers side door won't open, issue with outside button-image-1593821403.jpg  
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 07:37 PM
  #37  
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From: Burbs of detroit
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Originally Posted by Rudy
First pic is with everything hooked up, second pic is from the back side with the lock mech removed. The short rod in the second pic hooks into the white clip that is circled in the first pic
Thank you so much, is it easier to take it out mount the rod's and then re attach them them to the inside handle?
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 11:32 PM
  #38  
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From: Parker Colorado
Year: 1991
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Working on still getting to this, been too busy still.
Thanks for the pics Rudy.
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 02:50 PM
  #39  
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From: Parker Colorado
Year: 1991
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Alright I am a little bit annoyed...
Got in there, started taking it apart, and before I got to far I noticed none of the rods were bent, but the push button had come loose where it holds the spring (again), So I put the brass piece back where it slides in, put the screw in there and made sure it was nice and tight. Closed the door and walla! opens like normal again. So I decide its going to be all good and get ready to put it back together; but first I figure it would be good to make sure the inside opens OK. So I get in, test the lock first, moves nice and smooth, so no problems, and then when I try to test the inside handle to get out, nothing. Stuck can't get out...Well ok I figure, thats cool, I'll just roll down the window and press the newly fixed button on the outside to get out. Nope, nothing.
So long story short, my door now does not open from either inside or out, there seems to be some pressure on the outside button...but everything moves fine.
So what the crap? any ideas now?
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 02:57 AM
  #40  
Erik Hoeffner's Avatar
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From: Parker Colorado
Year: 1991
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Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
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I know this thread is a bit old now, but I would just like to say that the problem is now solved. Turned out to be the whole latch mechanism; messed around on the inside of the latch to get the door open and put a latch from a 89 in from the junkyard. The door closes and opens smoother than all my other doors now surprisingly...
Thanks for everyone's help on trying to solve the problem!
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