so im thinking of going rear coil & long arm. i have some 8" lift coils for the front & was tinking if just puting my 3.5" coils in the rear with or without the 2" pucks!?!? if any 1 has done this or knows someone who has any help would be greatly appresheated!!!

 

I can ask my frind how he did his

 

do some internet searches cause there is way more work to do this then you think. it takes a lot of measuring and very good welding skills dont forget the geometry in the suspension has to be good or it wont ride right either. there are kits that you can buy that already have the work done and ready to go

 

ya i found this on another forum and it is way in depth, & i've been looking into this for a while now but im not planning on doing it for at least another year! but down the road this is where im gonna have to go!!! check it out (i know, i know jeepkings)
http://www.jeepkings.ca/forums/showthreead.php?t=76641

 

Most people put the coils directly under the frame. If you do this, you have to subtract 2" from whatever lift you want to match in the front. So for a 6" front lift, you would use a 4" rear TJ coil. There are some difference in the coils from front to rear. First of all, the rear has a smaller spring rate. So if you put a front coil on the rear, it will ride stiff. Second. the coils are made to be more flexy by using a greater circumference, and hence a longer wire to allow more torsion in the wire and give greater travel in the rear as opposed to the front. Rear coils have been set up this way as far back as the 50s. So if you use the setup yo mentioned, I am not sure where the vehicle will sit. Second it will ride rough and third it will not flex well in the rear.

 

Why coils out back?

Why not a good set of leafs, extended shackles, and some shackle relocation boxes? Mine flexes pretty dang good. I can max out a 20 degree ramp that's over 6' long...more than enough.

What kinda wheelin, if any, do you do?

 

well i guess i've just disliked the rubi. 3.5" express rear leafs. i've flexed the hell outta them for about 4 yrs & they flex more than they did but this xj is just my toy so i want to go all out!!! i live in utah so i do most of my uinta mt trails but im more into the moab sene! oh and ya ive been wheelin for about 15 yrs now!

 

There is more than one way to skin a cat ....


I used the RockKrawler coil mounts for my XJ. Hindsight --- I should have just made my own.


That's an awful lot of lift ... what tires are you planning on running? I'd rather cut the body a bit.


The hardest part is going to be the crossmember at the frame *IF* you understand geometry & suspension setup. You will find it is a very tight squeeze between the bottom of the floor pan and the bottom of the rail. Lot of stuff to pack in that area. The reason I mention this is because you want separation (within a reasonable degree) to move the convergence point (instant center) higher and further forward. You will probably have less issues than I, because I don't see you mentioning a doubler. In my case ... the doubler forced the rear crossmember to be back further.


If you are sure you understand suspension terminology and how things interact, I would suggest the double triangulated setup. It does take more work, but I think the results speak for themselves (in general). The "straight lower/triangulated upper" is a bit more fool proof; however, it also has it's own potential set of quirks.


Spring wise ... unless you have testing equipment --- I think it's just trial and error. I built a coil rate test machine to assist me in choosing my rear springs. However, I am studying up on coil frequency. I never paid much attention to that because I attributed frequency "theory" to coil overs. Turns out it applies to regular coil/shock setups.


Try to keep the spring rates/frequencies similar or at least semi similar so that both suspensions work equally.


Grab whatever springs you can find and "trim" up the height with thin pucks, if need be. Like a TJ ... they're going to unseat quickly because they are proportionately shorter than the fronts. Perhaps look for some shorter lifted fronts and see how they fit. Another possibility is to cut down some lifted front coils. Your spring rate will increase if you do this .... but that may be just the ticket too.


Like I said at the top .... it's trial & error.


Good luck.


Joe

 

That's more of the answer I was looking for Thanks!!!

 

I'd go with a double triangulated set-up too. Got a buddy building his using Sways all around and he's cutting the rear floor board out to mount them and the links easier.

Another buddy I wheel with just did his with SwayAWays in the rear and a double triangulated set-up. It's plants the tires like crazy and is rarely tipped past an uncomfortable stance.

Almost straight lowers and uppers close together over the diff. And out about the the lowers is a ball park. Can you read a 4-link calculator? Take some rough measurements and plug them in to see. You'll waste less materials that way and gain much more knowledge about suspensions.

What kinda tire set-up you looking to run?

Reason I asked if you wheeled is I didn't want to type all this from my phone at work if you didn't lol.

 

I'm running 31x11.5 LTB swampers cause they were cheap & I haven't upgraded my axles yet!
I haven't tryed using a 4 link calculator yet as I don't know where to pick 1 up from! I oveouslly have a lot to learn before I jump into this!
Like what is the swayaway setup? And I take it that the double triangeated is like the link I posted up top???
Ya I'm also on my phone at work!!! Lmao

 

Without sounding too much like a jerk .... If you have to ask the questions above, that it would be advised not to consider doing a coil conversion.


Your link isn't working here for me, either.


I would spend a **** load of time on Pirate for information & ideas. SEARCH like mad to get started. Then if you want to post questions here for those who can answer .... do that. Worst case, ask "higher level" questions on Pirate and expect to be flamed if it's not specific enough.


The more research you do and the more questions you ask ... BEFORE you start, the better off you will be.


4 link for 31s is odd, but everyone has a reason.



Joe

 

I would add one thing to what Endless said. A coil conversion is not something to be done on the cheap. I sensed you just wanted to pull it off with some parts lying around. This is not the way to go. This is something you need to do right or not at all. With that in mind, I gave you the answer I did concerning using front coils on the rear. Yes you could get it to work, but I don't think it would be an improvement.