rear brakes
07-25-2010, 12:42 PM
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Year: 1994
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rear brakes
Okay so i did the rear disc brakes swap and prop valve. My problem is that when i press the brake the rear locks up on wet roads while the front does not. Is this normal?
07-25-2010, 01:50 PM
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i put it in the way it came out of the zj
is there a specific way to plumb it
it only happens under hard breaking if that matters
is there a specific way to plumb it
it only happens under hard breaking if that matters
07-25-2010, 02:22 PM
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I've never done your particular swap and don't know what's supposed to be included in it. I was just wondering. Was the master cylinder part of the swap?
I know on some other vehicles when switching from front discs/rear drums to 4 wheel discs you usually use the master from the donor vehicle.
I know it's a totally different type of vehicle, but when I installed 4 wheel discs on my Omni's I had to get the master cylinder that was for a 4 wheel disc brake system from a Daytona.
This may or may not apply here though, but since you have premature rear lockup something is wrong. I'm just trying to figure out what it is.
I know on some other vehicles when switching from front discs/rear drums to 4 wheel discs you usually use the master from the donor vehicle.
I know it's a totally different type of vehicle, but when I installed 4 wheel discs on my Omni's I had to get the master cylinder that was for a 4 wheel disc brake system from a Daytona.
This may or may not apply here though, but since you have premature rear lockup something is wrong. I'm just trying to figure out what it is.
07-25-2010, 02:30 PM
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when i did my swap, i used the master cylinder and booster from a 2000 cherokee and just changed the spring in the proportioning valve. my rears would lock just before the front but only under hard braking on dry surfaces. since i did the wj front brakes, that no longer happens. you just need more power in the front.
zedpapa
zedpapa
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07-25-2010, 02:36 PM
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when i did my swap, i used the master cylinder and booster from a 2000 cherokee and just changed the spring in the proportioning valve. my rears would lock just before the front but only under hard braking on dry surfaces. since i did the wj front brakes, that no longer happens. you just need more power in the front.
zedpapa
zedpapa
07-26-2010, 11:56 PM
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i think ol'blue is saying i didn't help. i went back and read it again. yep, clear as mud. sorry for that, not sure where my brain was then.
i know on some cars that the master cylinder is different depending on whether or not the vehicle was equipped with discs in the rear. however, i'm not sure what the differences were. i not sure if that was the case on the ZJ's. there were some that were offered with drums. this could be the cause of your rear locking early. one solution is that you could install an adjustable proportioning on the rear brakes to help prevent early lock up. have you tried locking up the brakes on a dry surface? it's possible that the wet surface you were on just magnified the early lock up.
if you want to do the WJ brake swap, there is a little more to it that just bolting on the calipers and rotors. you need the calipers, pads, rotors, and spindles from the WJ. you need wheel bearings from a 2000 XJ and wheel bearing spacers from JKS. if you want to use the WJ steering, you will either need new tie rods or modify the WJ setup. the XJ tie rods will work with the WJ spindles. i lost the links i had for doing the swap but if you google "WJ to XJ Brake Swap" you should be able to find a few pages. let me know if you have any other questions, i'll do my best to help.
zedpapa
i know on some cars that the master cylinder is different depending on whether or not the vehicle was equipped with discs in the rear. however, i'm not sure what the differences were. i not sure if that was the case on the ZJ's. there were some that were offered with drums. this could be the cause of your rear locking early. one solution is that you could install an adjustable proportioning on the rear brakes to help prevent early lock up. have you tried locking up the brakes on a dry surface? it's possible that the wet surface you were on just magnified the early lock up.
if you want to do the WJ brake swap, there is a little more to it that just bolting on the calipers and rotors. you need the calipers, pads, rotors, and spindles from the WJ. you need wheel bearings from a 2000 XJ and wheel bearing spacers from JKS. if you want to use the WJ steering, you will either need new tie rods or modify the WJ setup. the XJ tie rods will work with the WJ spindles. i lost the links i had for doing the swap but if you google "WJ to XJ Brake Swap" you should be able to find a few pages. let me know if you have any other questions, i'll do my best to help.
zedpapa
07-27-2010, 12:02 AM
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07-27-2010, 06:43 AM
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when i did my swap, i used the master cylinder and booster from a 2000 cherokee and just changed the spring in the proportioning valve. my rears would lock just before the front but only under hard braking on dry surfaces. since i did the wj front brakes, that no longer happens. you just need more power in the front.
zedpapa
zedpapa
i think ol'blue is saying i didn't help. i went back and read it again. yep, clear as mud. sorry for that, not sure where my brain was then.
i know on some cars that the master cylinder is different depending on whether or not the vehicle was equipped with discs in the rear. however, i'm not sure what the differences were. i not sure if that was the case on the ZJ's. there were some that were offered with drums. this could be the cause of your rear locking early. one solution is that you could install an adjustable proportioning on the rear brakes to help prevent early lock up. have you tried locking up the brakes on a dry surface? it's possible that the wet surface you were on just magnified the early lock up.
if you want to do the WJ brake swap, there is a little more to it that just bolting on the calipers and rotors. you need the calipers, pads, rotors, and spindles from the WJ. you need wheel bearings from a 2000 XJ and wheel bearing spacers from JKS. if you want to use the WJ steering, you will either need new tie rods or modify the WJ setup. the XJ tie rods will work with the WJ spindles. i lost the links i had for doing the swap but if you google "WJ to XJ Brake Swap" you should be able to find a few pages. let me know if you have any other questions, i'll do my best to help.
zedpapa
i know on some cars that the master cylinder is different depending on whether or not the vehicle was equipped with discs in the rear. however, i'm not sure what the differences were. i not sure if that was the case on the ZJ's. there were some that were offered with drums. this could be the cause of your rear locking early. one solution is that you could install an adjustable proportioning on the rear brakes to help prevent early lock up. have you tried locking up the brakes on a dry surface? it's possible that the wet surface you were on just magnified the early lock up.
if you want to do the WJ brake swap, there is a little more to it that just bolting on the calipers and rotors. you need the calipers, pads, rotors, and spindles from the WJ. you need wheel bearings from a 2000 XJ and wheel bearing spacers from JKS. if you want to use the WJ steering, you will either need new tie rods or modify the WJ setup. the XJ tie rods will work with the WJ spindles. i lost the links i had for doing the swap but if you google "WJ to XJ Brake Swap" you should be able to find a few pages. let me know if you have any other questions, i'll do my best to help.
zedpapa
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