Re-weld Lower Control Arm Bracket
Howdy,
1995 2wd. My lower control arm bracket got all messed up in a previous accident (before I got my jeep). It broke a while back and I had someone weld it back. They did a somewhat terrible job but now I need to repair it again to pass inspection. I've got a new bracket (and one bushing) and a mobile welder to come do it right this time around.
My question is what's the best way to make sure none of my alignment gets messed up when this gets welded on? My jeep drives straight as can be (and I would be happy to get it re-aligned if that is needed but hoping to avoid that if possible). Should I have him weld it back with weight on the axle or with the axle hanging freely (i.e. jeep is on jackstands)? Or some other way I haven't thought of?
Thanks
1995 2wd. My lower control arm bracket got all messed up in a previous accident (before I got my jeep). It broke a while back and I had someone weld it back. They did a somewhat terrible job but now I need to repair it again to pass inspection. I've got a new bracket (and one bushing) and a mobile welder to come do it right this time around.
My question is what's the best way to make sure none of my alignment gets messed up when this gets welded on? My jeep drives straight as can be (and I would be happy to get it re-aligned if that is needed but hoping to avoid that if possible). Should I have him weld it back with weight on the axle or with the axle hanging freely (i.e. jeep is on jackstands)? Or some other way I haven't thought of?
Thanks
CF Veteran




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From: Michigan
Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
just out of curiosity, whats a local mobile weld job qouted to cost you? In my shoes i would likely just replace the front axle with another if i couldn't be sure the replacement mount is done correctly. I think to really be sure it was oriented correctly i'd pull the axle anyway and set things up on a table before id go for a hasty weld job thats being done just to keep it mobile. Those hp d30's are still fairly plentiful and cheap to boot but im sure the argument behind the cost to either solution could be comparable.
Fair point on the alignment. I suppose I will get one once I get it welded back.
And I'm going with a mobile welder so I can do some of the grinding of the old bracket and prep beforehand--my jeep is only worth so much $$$ at this point. One shop quoted me 700-1200 to do the work in the shop. I think the mobile welder will be $100, with a one hour minimum charge although it shouldn't take that long really (just three points of contact). And its just a 2wd so I could get another tube pretty easily but at this point I'm hoping to keep it a bit more simple.
Any ideas on whether to line things up with the tires on the ground or in the air?
And I'm going with a mobile welder so I can do some of the grinding of the old bracket and prep beforehand--my jeep is only worth so much $$$ at this point. One shop quoted me 700-1200 to do the work in the shop. I think the mobile welder will be $100, with a one hour minimum charge although it shouldn't take that long really (just three points of contact). And its just a 2wd so I could get another tube pretty easily but at this point I'm hoping to keep it a bit more simple.
Any ideas on whether to line things up with the tires on the ground or in the air?
CF Veteran


Joined: Jan 2017
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From: Connecticut
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Also disconnect battery and PCM prior to welding as at least in theory you can fry PCM (the reports are anecdotal, but it takes like 2 seconds to disconnect stuff so why not).
Typically, it should done with vehicle on the ground and at ride height but in this case it doesn't really matter. After grinding away the previous mount, the original welds will still be visible. Hard to mess it up, it can only really be in one spot, and in one orientation. The OE control arms are non-adjustable. So it would be almost impossible for the placement of the new mount to out of alignment. Just keep the control arm in the adjacent mount, fasten the new mount to the other end of the control arm, swing it up to the (axle tube, I'm assuming), and tack it into place. Remove the control arm and finish welding.
Exactly like Randy said
The brackets are at an angle, so just scribe that on the axle tube in case you grind away trace of the previous mount, also the fore/aft position of the bracket on the tube
The brackets are at an angle, so just scribe that on the axle tube in case you grind away trace of the previous mount, also the fore/aft position of the bracket on the tube
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