Rad swap help??
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Year: 1991
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Rad swap help??
Ok, so I have my new all metal 2 row rad ready to throw into my 91 XJ, but I have a problem. I am not really a mechanic, and while Im not completely lost, I am also afraid to try anything on my Jeep because it is my only vehicle. However, I cant afford to keep paying the mechanic to install this stuff.. My question is, how hard is it to do a complete coolant flush/radiator swap/ and coolant refill on my XJ? I am thinking of getting a prestone flush kit from A/Z, and I want my next coolant/water ratio to be either 60/40 or 70/30 because I have been having warming issues lately (its hot). Does anyone know of a write-up on this with pics? Or should I just go buy a Haynes or Chilton? Thanks a bunch everyone.
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I thought about getting one. Which is best though? I have heard Chilton's over Haynes and vice versa. All I know is that if I want a Chilton's I must order it offline or have NAPA order it in.
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#6
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The radiator is the simple swap if your careful and pay attention to details.
The top of the core support unbolts from the fiberglass shell on the nose.
Next you need to drain the antifreeze. Should be a petcock on the bottom. If not of can't get it open move on and put a catch pan under the lower rad hose and squeeze the clamp and slide it up the hose.
Now pull on the hose, sometimes hose can almost fuse to the metal over time. If its stuck use a screw driver and slide it around the edge of the hose to free it. Then pull it off slowly and catch te coolant.
Transmission lines are held in place the a clip, squeeze ring together and pull the lines apart.
Now remove the fan shroud screws from the top core support and you should be able to slide the top of the core support out of the way.
Remove the top clamp like you did the lower one and you should be able to lift the radiator straight up and out. Compare the two and move the rubber mounting bushings over to the new radiator and transmission cooling lines.. When dropping the new radiator in make sure the rubber foot pads are still in place for it to sit on.
All in all you should be able to change the radiator out in about an hour or less.
The top of the core support unbolts from the fiberglass shell on the nose.
Next you need to drain the antifreeze. Should be a petcock on the bottom. If not of can't get it open move on and put a catch pan under the lower rad hose and squeeze the clamp and slide it up the hose.
Now pull on the hose, sometimes hose can almost fuse to the metal over time. If its stuck use a screw driver and slide it around the edge of the hose to free it. Then pull it off slowly and catch te coolant.
Transmission lines are held in place the a clip, squeeze ring together and pull the lines apart.
Now remove the fan shroud screws from the top core support and you should be able to slide the top of the core support out of the way.
Remove the top clamp like you did the lower one and you should be able to lift the radiator straight up and out. Compare the two and move the rubber mounting bushings over to the new radiator and transmission cooling lines.. When dropping the new radiator in make sure the rubber foot pads are still in place for it to sit on.
All in all you should be able to change the radiator out in about an hour or less.
#7
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Thanks everyone. If both are good, then I suppose I will go get a Haynes. Noone stocks Chilton around here...
So final word, Haynes or Chilton? And thank you so much Caish for the info. Much appreciated everyone!!
So final word, Haynes or Chilton? And thank you so much Caish for the info. Much appreciated everyone!!
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If you are going to flush with prestone or other stuff. Do it with the OLD radiator in NOT the new one. You don't want all the crap that gets flush out of the motor and heater core going into your Brand New radiator.
#12
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Im very relieved to know that. What I put as my signature is very true lol.
Thanks for the tip.. I was actually about to ask which would be better. Someone also told me that my old radiator will actually have some resell value.. Its not torn up or anything, so what would be a resell asking price?
Thanks for the tip.. I was actually about to ask which would be better. Someone also told me that my old radiator will actually have some resell value.. Its not torn up or anything, so what would be a resell asking price?
#13
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Im very relieved to know that. What I put as my signature is very true lol.
Thanks for the tip.. I was actually about to ask which would be better. Someone also told me that my old radiator will actually have some resell value.. Its not torn up or anything, so what would be a resell asking price?
Thanks for the tip.. I was actually about to ask which would be better. Someone also told me that my old radiator will actually have some resell value.. Its not torn up or anything, so what would be a resell asking price?
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I realize this is three months old, but I thought it worth mentioning that Autozone online has repair manuals online for older vehicles that are practically direct copies of the Haynes manuals. I had one for a Ford Explorer that was exact word for word with the same pictures. The one for my Jeep looks the same too. I always bought one of these books until I found the Autozone website.
I just thought this might be helpful to other readers of this post.
I just thought this might be helpful to other readers of this post.
#15
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I realize this is three months old, but I thought it worth mentioning that Autozone online has repair manuals online for older vehicles that are practically direct copies of the Haynes manuals. I had one for a Ford Explorer that was exact word for word with the same pictures. The one for my Jeep looks the same too. I always bought one of these books until I found the Autozone website.
I just thought this might be helpful to other readers of this post.
I just thought this might be helpful to other readers of this post.
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