Hey guys

So was wondering if anyone knew the right liquids for an 87 cherokee, manual tranny (BA 10/5), differentials ( Dana 30 & 35), and transfer case ( which I'm not sure what it is)...

I found online some people use 10w-40 or gl4 for the tranny but I want to make sure before I buy the liquid...

The t- case some used atf +4 or dextron/ mercon III....

And for the differentials is 75w-90 or a higher amount

 

www.kelleyswip.com/tech.html, follow the prompts.

I don't think I've had my paws on a 1987 FSM yet, but the 1989 I have will be the same, in terms of fluids.

The BA-10/5 and the axles will both use the same GL-5 specification, so no trouble there. If you have LSD in your rear axle, don't forget the friction modifier to keep the clutches working properly (this may be added to the axle directly, or mixed with the whole stock of gear oil - if it isn't required, it won't harm anything being there.)

 

An LSD?

 

And when u mean friction modifier... like an additive like lucas?

 

No. A friction modifier makes the oil less "slippery" when it's sheared. Without it the LSD clutches don't really engage. Same principle is used in ATF. You can buy it in small amounts, or buy gear oil with it already included. Most synthetics have this additive already.

If you plan on a lot of offroading or towing move up to 75w140 in the rear axle.

As for your transmission Redline MT-90 is a fantastic GL-4 oil (one of the last on the market) that's made specifically for synchronized gear boxes. I found mine on the shelf at NAPA. Though the BA-10/5 will probably blow up before you get your money's worth lol

Transfer case will work great on any ATF

 

Yea I've been reading that the BA 10/5 is a not so good tranny... eventually ill change it for an AX, but its there till I gey money or it blows...

So why do some people suggest the motor oil and others use the gl?

Online they mentioned that the gl had an additive that would mess the syncros up in the tranny, something about the liquid that was bad for a brass part in it....

just making sure I don't ruin my own tranny due to a change in liquid -.-

 

*more slippery (less friction)

 

GL-3 and GL-4 have fallen by the way side as modern manuals are engineered to use GL-5, engine oil, or a special custom fluid in the first place (Honda manuals and the NV4500 come to mind). The gear lube standards are not backwards compatible iterations like other specifications, they're actually separate. GL-5 is designed specifically for hypoid gears (differentials) and most have a very high amount of sulphur extreme pressure/anti-scuff additives that is corrosive to brass.

Motor oil appeared in transmissions in Jeep land when the warranty expired. Basically, Chrysler stopped carrying GL-3 oil when BA-10/5 and AX-15 were no longer covered. They issued a bulletin superseding the old part number with 10w30 and a bunch of fanboys interpreted this as "the new thing". No engineers were involved with this decision.

The gear boxes will technically work on engine oil but it's not ideal. That said it's a better choice than conventional GL-5. If you can find stuff like Pennzoil or Castrol Synchromesh oil that would be a great choice.

Whoops yes you're right... it's to kill chatter. Hadn't had enough coffee yet lol

 

Ok... thanks guys... appreciate it.

 

(Fixed it for ya), Outlaw

 

You'd be better off using GL-5 in the axles, they need the EP lubricants.

The BA-10 works fine with GL-5, as the synchronizers are aluminum (I've torn several of those to bits, I think I found maybe a half-pound of bronze in six of them, total.)

When you switch to the AX-15, you'll be dealing with bronze synchronizer rings. Since the suplur-based EP lubes used in GL-5 (and, to a lesser extent, GL-4) gear oils are antagonistic to copper-based alloys, you'll need to use GL-3 in the gearbox - unless you go with a "performance synthetic GL-5" - which specifically lists itself as "Safe for use with Yellow Metal." This means you'd need to keep both GL-5 (axles) and GL-3 (transmission) on hand, and don't mix them up. GL-4 may be used in a pinch to top off a gearbox with bronze in it, but it shouldn't be left in there very long. GL-5 should be avoided totally, as you'll end up draining out your synchronizer rings with your next gear oil change (they'll be a bunch of gold glitter in the oil. You'll still be able to use the gearbox - look up "double-clutching" to see how to do it smoothly...) An overhaul of the gearbox is required to replace synchronizer rings.

Engine oil has often been used in manual gearboxen as well - it's an old hot-rodder's trick, for cutting parasitic losses. The old Muncies used to take 70W-90, but I'd put 30-wt engine oil in them to reduce drag losses from the heavy oil. They'd live forever with that, and it would cut one or two tenths off of ETs at the track.

 

No brass in the Pukegoat? Ahha

 

Nope... read there aluminum, that's why I wanted to get things striaghten out...

 

Not that I could find.