Power Door Lock Problem
Hi Folks,
I have a 2000 XJ limited with the following power door lock problem:
- All doors unlock correctly when unlocked via the unlock door panel switches
- All doors do not lock when locked via the lock door panel switches
- I have verified all lock motors are working properly (lock/unlock) by applying 12v and reversing polarity
- manually locking and unlocking via the inside manual switches and external keyholes work fine.
- I have followed the continuity tests listed in the FSM for both the Drivers side module and passenger side module. No issues found.
I have replaced both PDM and DDMs thinking it was one of the relays in them with new PDM and DDM and still no help.
I have a RYE module but I dont have any key fobs programmed for it to test lock/unlock via the key fob. I have tried disconnecting the RYE board but it did not help.
I am getting 12v to both DDM and PDM. Fuse also checked in kick panel. On PDM, I am getting 12v on P36 20pk/vt (door unlock switch output) on PDM and not on P35 20or/vt (door lock switch output).
Multimeter is reporting +12v on p34 16pk/bk when PDM unlock is hit. No voltage detected on PDM p33 16 OR/BK when PDM unlock is hit.
Any help is appreciated.
I have a 2000 XJ limited with the following power door lock problem:
- All doors unlock correctly when unlocked via the unlock door panel switches
- All doors do not lock when locked via the lock door panel switches
- I have verified all lock motors are working properly (lock/unlock) by applying 12v and reversing polarity
- manually locking and unlocking via the inside manual switches and external keyholes work fine.
- I have followed the continuity tests listed in the FSM for both the Drivers side module and passenger side module. No issues found.
I have replaced both PDM and DDMs thinking it was one of the relays in them with new PDM and DDM and still no help.
I have a RYE module but I dont have any key fobs programmed for it to test lock/unlock via the key fob. I have tried disconnecting the RYE board but it did not help.
I am getting 12v to both DDM and PDM. Fuse also checked in kick panel. On PDM, I am getting 12v on P36 20pk/vt (door unlock switch output) on PDM and not on P35 20or/vt (door lock switch output).
Multimeter is reporting +12v on p34 16pk/bk when PDM unlock is hit. No voltage detected on PDM p33 16 OR/BK when PDM unlock is hit.
Any help is appreciated.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 799
Likes: 4
From: usa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
What is a DDM and a PDM?
I admit i'm not up on all of the abbreviations.
Don't know about the others but that is meaningless to me at least without a schematic.
It would be helpful for some of us to post the schematic you're referring to.
Maybe someone else here with schematics knows what all the buzz words are and how you're going about troubleshooting the problem.
To the moderators, it would be great if there were a sticky somewhere that defined all the abbreviations used on XJs here.
I admit i'm not up on all of the abbreviations.
Multimeter is reporting +12v on p34 16pk/bk when PDM unlock is hit. No voltage detected on PDM p33 16 OR/BK when PDM unlock is hit.
It would be helpful for some of us to post the schematic you're referring to.
Maybe someone else here with schematics knows what all the buzz words are and how you're going about troubleshooting the problem.
To the moderators, it would be great if there were a sticky somewhere that defined all the abbreviations used on XJs here.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 914
Likes: 14
From: north carolina
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
driver door module and passenger door module?
Sometimes it's just cold solder joints. Usually you can just hit the solder joints with a solder gun. Driver side first, then passenger side. I believe the actual controls/relays are on the passenger side, but the doing the drivers side worked for me.
if you replaced them with new ones then there must be something else going on. I've heard of people having broken wires in the door jam.
Sometimes it's just cold solder joints. Usually you can just hit the solder joints with a solder gun. Driver side first, then passenger side. I believe the actual controls/relays are on the passenger side, but the doing the drivers side worked for me.
if you replaced them with new ones then there must be something else going on. I've heard of people having broken wires in the door jam.
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