Quote:
Thank you I didn't know that will be doing that thanks Originally Posted by CCKen
I have used POR-15 often. I buy the small can and after opening the can immediately pour it into a small Mason jar. POR-15 has a short life when exposed to air that's why I pour the contents of the can in the jar and secure the lid when not in use. I've stored unused POR-15 (in the jar) in my refridgerator for over a month and it's still good. POR-15 cannot be kept in its original can. The lid won't seal tight enough. I wouldn't attempt to paint the entire undercarriage all at one time from a one-gallon can. It will harden in the can before you're finished.
CF Veteran
Quote:
There's the thing- "metal". Originally Posted by 97TwoDoor
You don't need to media blast it-- use a good cleaning solution (I use their marine clean, cleans the metal).
If there is any kind of paint or undercoating already on there, even from the factory- when it fails so will the POR. It has to come off else the POR will adhere to it and not the underlying metal. The stuff is basically super glue, it doesn't penetrate a thing.
Member
Spreadability: 96 sq. ft. per quart, 384 so. Ft. per gallon.
A gallon would be More than enough for 2 coats
A gallon would be More than enough for 2 coats
Junior Member
I've never used POR-15 myself, but I've read a lot about it on another bulletin board where there are a lot of people who use it. So take this for what it's worth.
The people that use POR-15 a lot and swear by it also say it's important to prep correctly or it's just wating your time and money. The favored prep is sandblasting, but others swear by "following the directions" (I don't know what POR-15s manufacturer recommends, but it shouldn't be too hard to dig up). People do emphasize that it's not "POP" (Paint Over Paint). It needs to go onto a rough surface to adhere.
Another thing that is often pointed out is that POR-15 needs to be topcoated, at least if it's going to be exposed to UV light (sunlight). Some say it's not needed when used on the underside of a vehicle, others say it still is if you want it to hold up. Most people who recommend topcoating a chassis recommend using something like a tractor or farm implement paint, or a "chassis black" paint.
Some people brush it on, but most suggest buying a cheap paint sprayer that you can throw away at the end of the job. They hardly thin it at all before spraying (something like less than 5%). Mask everything you don't want coated and then go to it. They say you should apply a second coat while the first is still tacky, and topcoat it while the second coat is still tacky.
Again, I'm only repeating what I've heard.
The people that use POR-15 a lot and swear by it also say it's important to prep correctly or it's just wating your time and money. The favored prep is sandblasting, but others swear by "following the directions" (I don't know what POR-15s manufacturer recommends, but it shouldn't be too hard to dig up). People do emphasize that it's not "POP" (Paint Over Paint). It needs to go onto a rough surface to adhere.
Another thing that is often pointed out is that POR-15 needs to be topcoated, at least if it's going to be exposed to UV light (sunlight). Some say it's not needed when used on the underside of a vehicle, others say it still is if you want it to hold up. Most people who recommend topcoating a chassis recommend using something like a tractor or farm implement paint, or a "chassis black" paint.
Some people brush it on, but most suggest buying a cheap paint sprayer that you can throw away at the end of the job. They hardly thin it at all before spraying (something like less than 5%). Mask everything you don't want coated and then go to it. They say you should apply a second coat while the first is still tacky, and topcoat it while the second coat is still tacky.
Again, I'm only repeating what I've heard.