PO202 & Check engine light-repost
03-17-2016, 05:30 PM
#1
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PO202 & Check engine light-repost
I got a check engine light and went to AutoZone for free code. It came back with PO202.
Sorry but I think I posted this the wrong catagory before so let me try here:
My question is:
first starting, it will idle rough and run rough with engline light blinking the more I put down throttle...........but when I go to a drive through bank, fast food ect for 5-10 minutes, it will start running smoothly again until I start driving then it will act up again.
Only today it continued running smoothly until I got home.
I know the code is fuel injector/plug in cylinder 2 but why does it NOT always run bad--or good?. Kinda seems the opposite that it would run good at first then bad, not the other way around.
any ideas???????????????
Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance..............
Sorry but I think I posted this the wrong catagory before so let me try here:
My question is:
first starting, it will idle rough and run rough with engline light blinking the more I put down throttle...........but when I go to a drive through bank, fast food ect for 5-10 minutes, it will start running smoothly again until I start driving then it will act up again.
Only today it continued running smoothly until I got home.
I know the code is fuel injector/plug in cylinder 2 but why does it NOT always run bad--or good?. Kinda seems the opposite that it would run good at first then bad, not the other way around.
any ideas???????????????
Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance..............
03-17-2016, 06:27 PM
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Hey Turbo XJ.............I don't know and I don't know how to check it.......I'm a newb on this-ha!
I could not figure out how to disconnect the injector? I pulled down the red lock and tried to remove but didn't want to pull to hard and break it. My thoughts was also a connection issue?????
I could not figure out how to disconnect the injector? I pulled down the red lock and tried to remove but didn't want to pull to hard and break it. My thoughts was also a connection issue?????
Last edited by tonetls; 03-17-2016 at 06:30 PM.
03-18-2016, 12:37 AM
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Since it's specific to cylinder #2, the first things I'd suspect are the plug, coil pack (or plug wire, depending on which year you have) and injector for that cylinder. Any of those can become intermittent. It's common for bad plugs/wires to misfire under load but not at idle, and not all the time.
Last edited by Radi; 03-18-2016 at 12:39 AM.
03-18-2016, 06:41 AM
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I think you are seeing an electrical issue with #2 injector circuit.
1. The injector may be defective.
2. The injector driver wire from the PCM may be intermittently chafing (open or short to ground).
3. The power wire to the injector may be intermittently chafing (open or short to ground).
First steps:
Inspect the wire harness loom where it exits the plastic wiring manifold for chafing against the end of the fuel rail.
Remove the injector connector (move red lock tab then depress the black locking tab while pulling up on the connector - not the wires). Check the resistance of the injector using a digital Ohmmeter (see below).
From the FSM:
P020X
Set Condition: This trouble code takes .64 to 10.0 seconds to set when no inductive kick is sensed .18ms after injector turn off, and with no other injectors on.
Injector Resistance Test:
Disconnect the fuel injector wire harness connector from the injector. The injector is equipped with 2 electrical terminals (pins). Place an ohmmeter across the terminals. Resistance reading should be approximately 12 ohms +/- 1.2 ohms at 20°C(68°F).
1. The injector may be defective.
2. The injector driver wire from the PCM may be intermittently chafing (open or short to ground).
3. The power wire to the injector may be intermittently chafing (open or short to ground).
First steps:
Inspect the wire harness loom where it exits the plastic wiring manifold for chafing against the end of the fuel rail.
Remove the injector connector (move red lock tab then depress the black locking tab while pulling up on the connector - not the wires). Check the resistance of the injector using a digital Ohmmeter (see below).
From the FSM:
P020X
Set Condition: This trouble code takes .64 to 10.0 seconds to set when no inductive kick is sensed .18ms after injector turn off, and with no other injectors on.
Injector Resistance Test:
Disconnect the fuel injector wire harness connector from the injector. The injector is equipped with 2 electrical terminals (pins). Place an ohmmeter across the terminals. Resistance reading should be approximately 12 ohms +/- 1.2 ohms at 20°C(68°F).
Last edited by CCKen; 03-18-2016 at 06:43 AM.
03-21-2016, 06:02 PM
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I think you are seeing an electrical issue with #2 injector circuit.
1. The injector may be defective.
2. The injector driver wire from the PCM may be intermittently chafing (open or short to ground).
3. The power wire to the injector may be intermittently chafing (open or short to ground).
First steps:
Inspect the wire harness loom where it exits the plastic wiring manifold for chafing against the end of the fuel rail.
Remove the injector connector (move red lock tab then depress the black locking tab while pulling up on the connector - not the wires). Check the resistance of the injector using a digital Ohmmeter (see below).
From the FSM:
P020X
Set Condition: This trouble code takes .64 to 10.0 seconds to set when no inductive kick is sensed .18ms after injector turn off, and with no other injectors on.
Injector Resistance Test:
Disconnect the fuel injector wire harness connector from the injector. The injector is equipped with 2 electrical terminals (pins). Place an ohmmeter across the terminals. Resistance reading should be approximately 12 ohms +/- 1.2 ohms at 20°C(68°F).
1. The injector may be defective.
2. The injector driver wire from the PCM may be intermittently chafing (open or short to ground).
3. The power wire to the injector may be intermittently chafing (open or short to ground).
First steps:
Inspect the wire harness loom where it exits the plastic wiring manifold for chafing against the end of the fuel rail.
Remove the injector connector (move red lock tab then depress the black locking tab while pulling up on the connector - not the wires). Check the resistance of the injector using a digital Ohmmeter (see below).
From the FSM:
P020X
Set Condition: This trouble code takes .64 to 10.0 seconds to set when no inductive kick is sensed .18ms after injector turn off, and with no other injectors on.
Injector Resistance Test:
Disconnect the fuel injector wire harness connector from the injector. The injector is equipped with 2 electrical terminals (pins). Place an ohmmeter across the terminals. Resistance reading should be approximately 12 ohms +/- 1.2 ohms at 20°C(68°F).
Thanks for the info and I will try again to get the connection apart on the injector. I tried before but did not want to pull to hard and break it then I would definatly be in trouble.
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03-21-2016, 06:06 PM
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Since it's specific to cylinder #2, the first things I'd suspect are the plug, coil pack (or plug wire, depending on which year you have) and injector for that cylinder. Any of those can become intermittent. It's common for bad plugs/wires to misfire under load but not at idle, and not all the time.
I will look into it this week.
thanks for your time...........
02-27-2018, 09:07 PM
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I'm having hard time guys....any help I appreciate
2007 jeep grand cherokee laredo. I'm down over $1000 last week. 1st shop said even though code says it's o2 sensors you need water pump, thermostat, hoses belts. Ok . Drive out and still check engine light on and then hesitates and rough idle and light flashes, no power and then jolts forward. Towed back. Can't find issue. Sorry. 2nd shop yesterday. O2 sensors need replacing. Not sure why they replaced water pump and thermostat because one o2 sensors wires were
melted to exhaust manifold, other one was heater something. Drive out....felt better right away. Drove fine. No check engine light. Did start to feel like it was going to act up but it didnt. Got home, about hour later, start up and there it is again, check engine light back on. Isnt hesitating , no rough idle or loss of power, light isnt flashing again .....did I just get taken by 2nd shop and can expect it to be flashing and misfiring soon? I am an amputee so the fear of breaking down and not being able to walk to help is a bit scary....I just need to try and figure out what I tell mechanics to check next before they get every penny I have. Any suggestions? Replaced both o2 sensors today.
ps shop #1...water pump guy....right before he said sorry don't know he said it's probably your computer . Does anyone think that is it? If so I'm fairly sure my jeep will be staying in driveway for a while and uber will have a daily customer! I just know if I had a little more knowledge to go back to shop with I'd have no problem helping them help me!
melted to exhaust manifold, other one was heater something. Drive out....felt better right away. Drove fine. No check engine light. Did start to feel like it was going to act up but it didnt. Got home, about hour later, start up and there it is again, check engine light back on. Isnt hesitating , no rough idle or loss of power, light isnt flashing again .....did I just get taken by 2nd shop and can expect it to be flashing and misfiring soon? I am an amputee so the fear of breaking down and not being able to walk to help is a bit scary....I just need to try and figure out what I tell mechanics to check next before they get every penny I have. Any suggestions? Replaced both o2 sensors today.
ps shop #1...water pump guy....right before he said sorry don't know he said it's probably your computer . Does anyone think that is it? If so I'm fairly sure my jeep will be staying in driveway for a while and uber will have a daily customer! I just know if I had a little more knowledge to go back to shop with I'd have no problem helping them help me!
Last edited by Saundra Hamilton; 02-27-2018 at 09:13 PM.
02-28-2018, 07:52 AM
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Year: 1999
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2007 jeep grand cherokee laredo. I'm down over $1000 last week. 1st shop said even though code says it's o2 sensors you need water pump, thermostat, hoses belts. Ok . Drive out and still check engine light on and then hesitates and rough idle and light flashes, no power and then jolts forward. Towed back. Can't find issue. Sorry. 2nd shop yesterday. O2 sensors need replacing. Not sure why they replaced water pump and thermostat because one o2 sensors wires were
melted to exhaust manifold, other one was heater something. Drive out....felt better right away. Drove fine. No check engine light. Did start to feel like it was going to act up but it didnt. Got home, about hour later, start up and there it is again, check engine light back on. Isnt hesitating , no rough idle or loss of power, light isnt flashing again .....did I just get taken by 2nd shop and can expect it to be flashing and misfiring soon? I am an amputee so the fear of breaking down and not being able to walk to help is a bit scary....I just need to try and figure out what I tell mechanics to check next before they get every penny I have. Any suggestions? Replaced both o2 sensors today.
ps shop #1...water pump guy....right before he said sorry don't know he said it's probably your computer . Does anyone think that is it? If so I'm fairly sure my jeep will be staying in driveway for a while and uber will have a daily customer! I just know if I had a little more knowledge to go back to shop with I'd have no problem helping them help me!
melted to exhaust manifold, other one was heater something. Drive out....felt better right away. Drove fine. No check engine light. Did start to feel like it was going to act up but it didnt. Got home, about hour later, start up and there it is again, check engine light back on. Isnt hesitating , no rough idle or loss of power, light isnt flashing again .....did I just get taken by 2nd shop and can expect it to be flashing and misfiring soon? I am an amputee so the fear of breaking down and not being able to walk to help is a bit scary....I just need to try and figure out what I tell mechanics to check next before they get every penny I have. Any suggestions? Replaced both o2 sensors today.
ps shop #1...water pump guy....right before he said sorry don't know he said it's probably your computer . Does anyone think that is it? If so I'm fairly sure my jeep will be staying in driveway for a while and uber will have a daily customer! I just know if I had a little more knowledge to go back to shop with I'd have no problem helping them help me!
As for your current problem, whenever the check engine light is on....gotta go back in and retrieve those codes and let those codes act as a guide map for any further repairs. It's really impossible for us to guess as to what might be going on.
Next off, this is a very old thread (2016) and for a new problem, it's best for you to start a NEW thread. As this is the forum for the XJ (sold until 2001), and because these forums are platform specific, try posting here: Good luck!
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